Helicycle-- Hoverings & Happenings

[StanFoster]

Chris- I can see your type of flying , using it for optimum fuel burn, interfacing with your GPS knowing what airports you can make etc, would be very handy. I probably would insist on having one also, but I would still have to have at least a sight gauge showing my last few gallons of fuel. In my case, I have a GPS that shows me how much time to my destination and thr nearest 10 airports. I am not flying a turbine trying to optimize my fuel burn, and KNOWING down to my last gallon of fuel with certainty, it is a helicopter and I would just simply be landing when I reach my 20 minute reserve point. Now if I were doing serious cross country stuff, then sure, I would have one along with a sight gauge. If I had 10 fuel flow meters in my dash all reading exactly the same, I would still look at my sight gauge to verify. Its like how I verify my laser level is dead on, with a simple plumb bob! I can see why you have and need one Chris, and why all I want to know is how much fuel do I have without a smidgen of a doubt. I never trust a fuel gauge, and had a sight tube in my SparrowHawk without a gauge in the dash either. About the little bitty sight tube in my cabin, that is much more comforting than sitting on a fiber glassed box holding 23 gallons inside my SparrowHawk. Now that made me nervous, and I was planning on changing that had I kept it much longer. Thanks for explaining your excellent use of your fuel flow instrument, and with a sight tube that would be the perfect setup for your amazing cross countries. Stan

 

[laflyboy]

Did Eagle supply the fittings on the bottom of your bottom tank also?

 

[StanFoster]

David- Eagle supplied my tank fittings. Stan

 

[laflyboy]

Another Question. I know that you are running dual Oddessy batteries, as I am also, how did you set things up so as to not loss you tac display on the initial hit from the starter on startup.

 

[akoschier]

Stan,

For what its worth I'm using a cheap 12V car horn mounted to the seatpan back behind my head as rotorspeed warning. It cuts clear through my Lightspeed noise canceling headset.
Its triggered by the speedpinout on the Westtach dual tach via a solenoid since the pinout will only carry 200 MA. Its activated by a switch mounted in the collective well with a red panel light indicating when its turned off.
avk

 

[StanFoster]

Avk- Thanks for that info. Blake had told me a few guys had put in a dual tach that had the low rpm trigger that could be set. I like your idea of the collective arming switch, and the red light showing its not armed. Probably makes startups a little less stressful witthout a car horn going off until flight rpm's are achieved! Do you recall exactly the number of the Westach dual instrument? I definitely would like to do this. Thanks. Stan

 

[HobbyCAD]

Stan, Westach makes one especially for the JetExec, so it's most probably tuned for the engine RPM to work off the T62-32 trigger pulses. I'm not sure what the JetExec RRPM is. The part number is 3DA5-DT138P. The 100% settings and low RRPM trigger settings are adjustable, so you should be able to tweak the RRPM readout to read 100% at your higher (630?) RRPM. Beware, the gauge is for a 12V system. Contact Westach, ask to speak to Joel, he will be able to tell you if it will function on 24V.

The Mini-500 used a similar setup, with a low RRPM trigger setting firing a relay. The relay supplied 12V to a piezo horn. The 12V warning signal from the relay went throught a microswitch that opened up the circuit if the collective was all the way down, disabling the horn on startup. If you raise the collective lever, the circuit became active. The idea was to reach the correct RRPM, before raising the collective lever, otherwise you had a blaring horn during startup. The part number was 3DA5-TC112LP, for what it's worth.

If you want to have a warning horn disabled red light as well as a horn, connect the supply to the common of the microswitch contact, connect the piezo horn through the NC contact of the microswitch, and the warning light through the NO contact. If the lever is down, and the RRPM low, the warning light will illuminate. If the RRPM is in range, the red light will extinguish, signalling you OK to raise the collective. If the collective is in a raised position, thus the microswitch untriggered, a low RRPM condition will now sound the piezo horn.

If you want the red warning light to function both as a horn disabled on startup, and low RRPM indication in flight, loop the microswitch NC contact to the NO contact with a 1N4001 diode. This will illuminate the light and sound the horn if a low RRPM condition is triggered with the collective raised, but will only illuminate the light if the collective lever is down.

 

[StanFoster]

Hobbycad- Thanks for the info. I understand what you are saying on all the wiring. In my case, I would have to have the microswitch not come on until the collective is about 1/4 th up. That is where you set the collective before the blades are engaged. The reason being that its easier on the elastomeric bearings. Stan

 

[HobbyCAD]

Yup, that switch setting would be a good choice. Happy flying in 2011 !!

I see you have ordered a Genesis, I'm toiling with the idea of building a tractor gyro, seeing I have a lot of 4130 tubing lying around "spare". The 2-place LW springs to mind....

 

[TERRY LEE]

Hi Stan,
I'm new to gyro's, so I have a ton to learn. But, I do have about 6hrs in hughs 500D and I understand what you mean about the power. Only one phrase can define it " THAT IS AWSOME". Good luck to you. I have visited Blake at the factory in Boise, and have seen a Helicycle in person, but, I have a long way to go to fly one. Happy New Year

 

[StanFoster]

Terry- Welcome to the forum. You will get a lot of information about gyros here. ................................Hobbycad, my system is 12 volts, so the Westach should work. Stan

 

[akoschier]

Stan,
I have the 3DA5-TC187-1P.
I do run a separate speed sensor for its Rotor RPM.
Tell them to calibrate it for 615 Rotor and 3000 Engine- use the signal from the coil under the pulley.
avk

 

[laflyboy]

Stan, I was hoping you could tell me what brand radio antenna you have, and where you bought it. Also where and how did you ground te antenna and cable.

Thanks

 

[StanFoster]

David- My antenna is a Comant from Aircraft Spruce. Its the 45 degree one for mounting underneath a helicopter. I used the mounting tab that was on the frame behind the turbine. I have never had an aircraft with a radio that would transmit very far or clearly. I followed the directions on ground planes , but never was successful. I used no ground plane on my Helicycle, and had a friend check my SWR on it. Any number lower than 2 is good. Mine came in at 1.7. Nothing like real world testing however. When I started flying, all the locals said I had a real clear transmission. I was pleased one day when I heard a pilot at an airport 30 miles away giving me a reply that my radio check was loud and clear. Finally I thought, I have a good radio. 0ne day I was flying and heard a helicopter over in Indiana doing pattern work. He was 90 miles away. He was real clear to me, but I have always been able to receive well. I transmitted back and asked how my signal was. He said " Sierra Foxtrot, you are loud and clear!". So, my tail frame must be sufficient for a ground plane. I have seen Helicycles with sheet aluminum ground planes, and even one with wire mesh on the tail boom. I am glad that I have a combo that works great, and without extra clutter of a ground plane. I did run my antenna cable separate from my wire bundles going up my left and right longerons. My radio is an Icom. I have my joystick wired with a red PTT switch on top, and a channel changer on the side. I remember while wiring my radio wondering if I would ever have an aircraft with a radio that is loud and clear. I finally can say "yes". Stan

 

[laflyboy]

Thanks Stan.

 

[StanFoster]

David- It would be nice to see a thread with your build in it. I love watching and learning from others.


Stan

 

[laflyboy]

Stan, my helicycle was actually built by Tom Sled and first flew in 2003. If you google N3722T, you can see his build with lots of detail. I have done a lot work and improvements on it, but seem to have a hard time remembering to take pictures, but I know I should. I truly think you have one of the nicest ones I've seen.

 

[StanFoster]

David- Thanks. I have seen some beauties, and haven't see one that didn't fly nice. I have been flying about 2 times a week lately. I have been leaving the camera on the ground as it is not accessible with my full doors on now, plus I have posted plenty of videos now anyway. Its safer not flying for the camera. Stan

 

[StanFoster]

We had 5 inches of snow yesterday, then it turned sunny and 18 degrees just awhile ago...and I went flying. When I was around 1000 feet up, I frictioned the collective and called John on my cellphone. Clearest conversation I have ever had in an aircraft. The turbine whine is very subtle. John said he heard me clearly. Here are some pictures I snapped. My video mount is outside the door, and I wont post many more videos till my door comes off. Otherwise...I have to turn the camera on, get in and fire it up, go fly, and then I have to land, shut it down to go shut the camera off. Not worth it. I figure I posted plenty of videos any how.


Stan

 

[All_In]

Stan it was loud and clear!!! That was fun!

Sounds like you are flying with a squadron of hornets, very quite.

I did record it and it came out so, so not as clear as the real conversation.

There are two problems: it's a .qdp file and will not play on the computer only my cell phone so far because quicklime program says it can't read the format.

I'll do some research and see if there is some freeware that will convert it to a .wmv file and try and upload it.

The other problem is my phone must have a witness protection record feature: Because my side of the conversation does not record … so it only you on the recording.

Still trying...