Webber 750 engine

ROTORTEC

Hi John

Sort of a bump on post # 1263 on page 85. Does the banjo fitting that you use for the oil pump inlet have a .500 inch inside diameter on the hose barb ???

The biggest I can find here in the States, has a hose barb that is 1/2 inch "outside" diameter with .375 inside diameter which I think is to much restriction. I am able to get the .500 inside diameter if I go to a banjo fitting with a 10AN male fitting and use a 10AN hose barb. I can go this way but it is a little bulky, would prefer a banjo fitting with the large hose barb manufactured on the fitting. Do you have any sources, do not know if the one listed on the "Racing" web site has a .500 inside diameter on the hose barb ??

Tony

Fittings

Fittings

Hi Tony, sorry to get back to you so late, Yes the inside of this fittings is about 13 mm or 1/2 Inch. Have enclosed some Pictures for you to see. Think we are talking about the same Fitting.

John

Hi John

Yes those are the fittings, the bolt has the .500 inside diameter but what about the inside diameter of the hose barb ??? If the inside diameter of the hose barb is .500 also then I may wish to order 1 or 2 from you. The bolt I have looks identical to the one you have and the Banjo looks like the same but the hose barb inside diameter is about .375

Tony

Tony,

the inside of the Hose fitting is 12 mm very close to 1/2 Inch

John

Ok John

How do I order 2 of the banjo fittings ??

Tony

PS will be gone for about 2 hour.

Tony,

just send me an E-mail and we will send you a quote and the needed Parts, no Problem we have them in stock.

John
[email protected]

E-mail sent

Thanks ever so much for your help.

Tony Stiles

oil cooler system

oil cooler system

Well it's been a while since I posted some pictures and these will help explain why sometimes it takes so long to get something simple done. It's called "lots a choices". These pictures will show the many different ways to hook up just one connection to the input of the high pressure oil pump. Almost all of these connections can be obtained at www.batinc.com , except the double length banjo bolt. The sliver banjo fitting actually is not correct for the job, the hose barb is to small (3/8 Id.) it needs to be 1/2 inch ID. and I will be getting this from John at ROTORTEC in Germany, can't seem to find it here in the States. I can make it up by using the arrangement shown in the pictures using a banjo fitting (blue ) with a 10AN male attachment and then a 1/2 inch hose fitting with a 10AN nut but that is rather bulky. Could not find the original short straight hose fitting that I took out but that would be one option and use form fitted hoses but they are not easy to find the rest are somewhat self explanitory (I think).

Tony

More pictures of the oil system

More pictures of the oil system

Since I am using a N/A engine (non-turbo) and the head is reversed, I can use a wide varity of options for the oil input port. The 2 bolt holes that held the turbo support bracket are of no concern to me so I was able to use a die grinder to cut out about half of the support rib between them and this gave me lots of room to use many different options. I went to the auto parts store and bought a 18 mm oil pan drain plug to protect the face of the input port (this is a seal face) and just used a 8mm bolt and washers to protect the lower bolt hole face. I bought the double length banjo bolt from www.hydrualic-supply.com and as a last comment, the last pictures show a much much better seal washer that has a bonded buna seal moulded to it, these come from www.batinc.com also at about .80 cent each (there great)

Tony

Mark and Jeff

Looks like finally got the desired arrangement on the oil input set up !! Will be ordering the banjo with the hose barb from John at ROTORTEC in Germany but the last item I just found tonite. Someone mentioned about the "oil drain" and I got to thinking that if instead of using a spacer on the one set up using the double banjo bolt, I would use 2 banjo fittings, but make the other one a banjo with a female pipe fitting, I could use either a pipe plug or a petcock valve as a oil drain. Found the banjo fitting on this web site www.atpturbo.com $24 plus a hose barb fitting for $4 plus shipping. This will work on either N/A or turbo !!

Tony

This will drain the tank without having to use a suction gun, will drain about 90 percent of oil right after you shut off the engine and all of the oil is still in the tank.

I hope you find what you are looking for Tony. I know its always hurry up and wait.
I am working on an engine test stand for the Turbo. I had a friend tell me he had a laptop , that he was not using that I could use with the Megasquirt. So maybe I will start wiring mine this weekend.

I have a frame built to hold the Weber and all of the wires cut off of the motor, leaving myself some pig tails

I will try to wire it next weekend

HI Mark

That looks like a great set up for "bench testing" and trial runs, you can get to any place you want

Tony

Thanks,
I maybe calling on you to tell where those pigtails go, lol
If I don't respond on the forum, I am not ignoring anyone, My moms been ill again and I spend more time with her. So bear with me.

Best wishes for you and your mom Mark. I'll have her in our prayers.

Thank you Lee,
She is doing better today!

Hi Mark

I tend to agree with Stan on the oil cooler thread, "but" on a marine engine, as best I can tell they run the oil through the cooler before going into the tank. Sure wish I was a "injenear' so I could understand this stuff. What's your take on this question ??

Tony

Tony,
I'm about to leave again so I will respond tomorrow. I do not know which thread you are referring to in the post above.
To me, if the oil goes to the cooler first, it has some time to lose some of the vapors and it is at it hottest coming from the motor, than coming from the reservoir, I would think it would give up the greatest amount of heat in the cooler at this point.

Hi Mark

It's under the "engine" thread , titled oil system design

Tony

Tony,
I read the thread, my comments are still the same.

By the way, I was looking over the DIY Relay board. There is not enough of out puts for the Weber Turbo, so I will wire directly from the ECU the same as you did. Did you add any shielded wiring on any of the trigger inputs or just used the one that is on the wiring harness to attach to the the VR sensor?
I don't guess you have a Knock Sensor either?
Did you connect to the Bosch MAPs with the Idle Air Temp or use one side of the the sensor.

If I had it to do over again, I would go with the Fidle valve instead of the stepper motor.

I am going to remove the Start solenoid relay from the Bosch wiring, separate the Chassis Relay from the Fuel Pump relay and use the Chassis Relay for the main relay. I will power the Megasquirt off of it and run a separate hot wire with fusible link to the Fuel Pump relay. That way the ECU will turn on the Fuel pump relay and not burn up the coils when the switch is on. I think the FP is only turned on when the engine is turning over. I will double check.