Yamaha Genesis 120hp engine

[raton]

The oil level is sighted through a glass centered pulg a couple of inches from the bottom.
We have used the recommended oil and have not seen any foaming problems at all. They do not even breathe a drop into the plastic bottle breather.
The gearbox runs cool according to the aircraft temperature sensitive sticker.
Perhaps moisture buildup from condensation may cause foaming?

The gearbox runs cool according to the aircraft temperature sensitive sticker.


http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20316 (post No:3)

raton

 

[dilly]

hi racer; just a ?... i was wondring what you and ron are runing for props....are they ultralight models or the next size up ..becouse your puting out more then 80hp...i am still looking for a prop for my yamaha 120 ...i have a c-box 4.1 with a cluch ....racer you making any more cluch adapter parts for the yamaha so it fits ...like you did for ron ...becouse i will need the same thing for my set up please let me know ....thanks dennis

 

[Racer]

Ron and I both are running Warp Drive props, Mine is a 68" with a HPL prop hub and Ron is swinging a 70" that has been slightly cut down.
Yes I have a run of the clutches being made now but they are already spoken for, let me know if you want one and we can get you in on the next run.

 

[dilly]

hi racer ...are you just making the inner piece that mounts to the motor? becouse thats all i need thanks dennis
ps do you have a price

 

[Racer]

Yes, all I am making is the drive hub that connects to the motor.
I am having them done on a CNC machining center, They can do it much faster than I can but I do not know what the cost will be as of yet. they will let me know after they run the first batch after they see how long it will take them.

 

[dilly]

veiry nice ....ok then i will whate on having one made then ....im full of ????'s today .....i would like to know the thickness of the aluminum plate you used to bolt the c-box to the motor ...and if you counter sunk the steel plat (the bearing plate)that is mounted to the motor in to the aluminum plate so i can get the same out come you did...incase if i do get one of your hub's

 

[Racer]

I use .500 thick plate.
I drill and tap the through the bearing plate and into the block to M8 x.125 and bolt through both the re drive plate, bearing plate into the engine block.

 

[GyroRon]

Dilly, maybe I am speaking out of context, but Racer is trying to make a business out of this and is offering either plans for sale, for people like you that want to do the machining yourself.... or by offering a kit with all the parts you need already machined through Racer. I am not sure but he might even be gearing up to offer complete ready to bolt on engine packages too. Either way, asking him how to build these parts without first at least buying the plans would be the same as asking Ernie Boyette information on how to make the blades Ernie makes to sell for a living. Hope you understand. Racer is too nice of a guy to ask that you buy plans if you want his help, but I think that it is only fair that you do at least buy the plans.

 

[mceagle]

The gearbox runs cool according to the aircraft temperature sensitive sticker.

I will take a photo of the sticker for you rat. I dare say even you could understand it. They have a physical max recording - not a guestimate.

 

[Racer]

Thank you Ron,
I really am doing this to help the gyro community as a whole and yes I would like to make a few bucks in the process if for nothing else to just cover expenses. I have invested thousands of dollars in tooling and equipment just so I can do this for people. I have shelves of parts that I have made and never used or do not use anymore because of small flaws or many times I just improve the design from the original design.
It will take many many sales just to get to the point of "break even"
The worst part is that I am not even close to being done spending $$$ tooling up the shop, The next purchase will likely be over $10,000.00 for a good USED CNC milling machine so that I can increase my production speed and also be more capable of doing some pretty cool stuff, stuff that will benefit all light sport aviation, not just Gyro's or Yamaha engines.

I have big plans that I believe many people will be excited about but unfortunately it takes capital to make it happen.

So for now I do not dare to give up my nite job because it is the major funding for the things I offer here.

...and if you counter sunk the steel plat (the bearing plate)that is mounted to the motor in to the aluminum plate so i can get the same out come you did...incase if i do get one of your hub's

I did answer this question because it is a real safety issue, if Dennis would have done this he would have eliminated the major anchoring support of the back plate to the engine and that would be Very Dangerous. I do not think anybody would like to hear of a prop and gear reduction separating from a motor and being thrown off a gyro in flight and taking off a tail or going through the Rotor blades etc. on the way down.

If it is a matter of someone doing something potentially dangerous because they do not want to buy plans I will share info with them for free because safety is more important than money to me.

Next question I may get is "When drilling out the M6x1.00 bolts to replace them with the four M8 x 1.25 bolts how deep can you drill without drilling into the block and filling it with drill chips?" The answer to that question is in the plans.

PS. Plans are $250.00
This includes blueprints to all pieces that need to be machined.
Wiring harness diagram for our needs.
Oil system re route diagram.
Cooling system diagram.
Notes on important finds we have found through our R&D testing.
Contact info for other needed parts.
Me, All the help you can stand only a phone call away ( Ron Awad can vouch for this, he even put me on his friends and family plan)

Thanks for hearing me out
Todd 719 499-2378

 

[bones]

I will take a photo of the sticker for you rat. I dare say even you could understand it. They have a physical max recording - not a guestimate.

Yeah Rat the same type of sticker that would have part of your preflight on the tail rotor gear box of the helicopter your flew for 3-5k hours for cash, that might jog your memory :whip::bored:eace:

 

[StanFoster]

Todd- I can only imagine what you are capable of making if you had the tooling. Its amazing the stuff you are doing. I cant believe I skipped over your Yamaha conversion till just lately. I have been doing a lot of catching up on that thread and the more I read,.the more impressed I am. I wonder what other threads I have overlooked?



Stan

 

[raton]

I will take a photo of the sticker for you rat. I dare say even you could understand it. They have a physical max recording - not a guestimate.

No use to argue with me about this , this where his words

“I currently run an Autoflight which can be doubled up as a frying pan. It to gets realy hot!!!! “

I don’t know if the box had any teletemp on it..

raton

 

[raton]

Yeah Rat the same type of sticker that would have part of your preflight on the tail rotor gear box of the helicopter your flew for 3-5k hours for cash, that might jog your memory :whip::bored:eace:

Yep, reading your teletemp i can read you graduated to a major galah... :whip::der:

raton

 

[dilly]

hi ron ....
i think your right .....racer should get payed for this work ....that is way i asked for the price of the hub ....i trust his work and i do not even know him ....all you have to do is look at his pic's and know he is doing great work ...as i do with my work.. as for odering plan's from racer ..they will not work for me ...you see i do not fly a gyro ...i fly a trike and the mounting set up is diffrent ...if i was to try to use his mounting set up on my trike i would have to re do the hole back end of the trike...its just cheaper to make my own motor mount and use a simler 1/2 thick plate for the gear box mount witch i will need it to be made a little difrent then what you guys are useing sints i do not have that rap around frame that you guys use but the gear box will be mounted the same way as yours so i could use racer's hub set up for the cluch ...i was not trying to cheat racer out of money by asking all kinds of ?????'s i thought thats whate this forum was all about (learning) and trying to be safe... i will not ask any more ????'s but i will still follow your's and racer's post on the 120 becouse thats wy i am on here ....you guy's are the only ones doing any thing with the 120 so fare and i just wanted to learn as much as i can about the 120 in an air craft....i have over 5 years working with motor and i know it will be great in a air craft ... you guy's are doing just that and i thank you ...dennis

 

[Racer]

Dennis,
Iexplained in detail what the plans included and motor mounts were not one of them because seems like every machine is different.
The plans are for the mounting plates of the gearbox mounting and What modifications you need to do to the motor. Many people are buying these kits that have fixed wing airplanes as well so what I am doing is not gyro specific.

Dennis,
In your defense, I did say earlier in this thread before I started my business making this stuff that you are more than welcome to copy what I have done if you are capable and that is still true. One thing you should consider is the 100's of hours that have gone into these plans getting everything worked out.
I guarantee you will save more money than the cost of the plans in saved time and the cost of redoing things, there are many little details that if you miss even one could take out your motor... how much would that cost?

Here are a few things you need to know,

Are the stock vacuum fuel pumps strong enough for your application?
How the oil system is re routed after removing the air box,
At your altitude what size main jets should I use?
You can get the answer these last two questions by buying a Air box elimination kit on Ebay for $395.00 plus shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMA...02425923QQptZSnowmobileQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories or you can get the same info from the plans plus much more for $250.00

I guess bottom line is I have poured my heart and soul and money into making this happen and I do not feel I need to apologize for charging a small profit so that I might be able to afford to continue to R&D new things that will help many people on here.
Trust me on this, I doubt I will ever make enough money to even get back to even, this is truly a labor of love for me and I am happy I am able to do it.

Todd

PS
I will still help you get your project up and going and help you do it safely because I want you to be successful in your conversion.

Here is a pic of the back plate and the four M8 x 1.25 bolts that support the plate near the output shaft.

 

[BadAir Express]

Todd, I appreciate the welcome from the other thread. I am also thankful for guys like you that dare to dream and then have the drive, the skills, and the desire to make it happen. You make a lot of good things available to a lot of us that would be beyond our reach! As a safety professional, I loudly applaude your attitude that safety in our hobby comes first, even above the dollor. In your efforts to keep someone safe, if you suffer a loss, let me know. I'll be the first to contribute to your cause to help ease the cost. You have my full support in fulfilling your goal. Thanks Todd!!!

Curt from Utah

Enjoy the good air. Whip the BadAir into submission!

 

[GyroRon]

Dilly, to mount a gearbox to the Yamaha engine, you need a back plate ( the part you were asking about ) and you ALSO need.... A front plate, and two side plates to tie the front and back together. This forms a box around the engine and allows for multiple locations to attach the back plate to the engine to keep this a solid and reliable unit. There is also a small plate that attaches the back plate to the rear 4 bolts on the oil pan.

All of those plates need to be machined to exact tolerances....

In addition, you need to know how to reroute your oil system, your coolant system, you need to know what to clip out of your wiring harness, etc...

All of this stuff is in the plans. Once you build the engine to the plans specifications, you can decide how you want to attach the engine to your Trikes frame.

No problem asking questions, but bear in mind, This is a business, and asking how to convert the engine without purchasing the plans is simply not acceptable.

Sorry if this comes off the wrong way, feel free to call Racer or myself at anytime and hopefully one of us can explain it better. 704-7464600

 

[Timchick]

hi ron ....
i think your right .....racer should get payed for this work ....that is way i asked for the price of the hub ....i trust his work and i do not even know him ....all you have to do is look at his pic's and know he is doing great work ...as i do with my work.. as for odering plan's from racer ..they will not work for me ...you see i do not fly a gyro ...i fly a trike and the mounting set up is diffrent ...if i was to try to use his mounting set up on my trike i would have to re do the hole back end of the trike...its just cheaper to make my own motor mount and use a simler 1/2 thick plate for the gear box mount witch i will need it to be made a little difrent then what you guys are useing sints i do not have that rap around frame that you guys use but the gear box will be mounted the same way as yours so i could use racer's hub set up for the cluch ...i was not trying to cheat racer out of money by asking all kinds of ?????'s i thought thats whate this forum was all about (learning) and trying to be safe... i will not ask any more ????'s but i will still follow your's and racer's post on the 120 becouse thats wy i am on here ....you guy's are the only ones doing any thing with the 120 so fare and i just wanted to learn as much as i can about the 120 in an air craft....i have over 5 years working with motor and i know it will be great in a air craft ... you guy's are doing just that and i thank you ...dennis

Some of us would like to see photos of your conversion when you start it. Please start a thread and post photos when you start.

 

[Racer]

Some of us would like to see photos of your conversion when you start it. Please start a thread and post photos when you start.

I agree Dennis
Start a thread and show us what you are doing, we would love to see it.
Good chance I will learn something from you as well.
Todd