Winter mods of my KB-2

Roundwing

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I have several mods I have done and will do to my KB-2.

The first is new motor mounts to get rid of some of the vibration.

I used O-200 rubbers and manufactured the rest.

As you can see I also mounted a starter.
Yes I know it adds weight but I hate hand propping.
 

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Roundwing

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Mod #2 was to replace the pre-rotator flex shaft with a bevel gear and telescoping steel shafts.

The flex shaft made the controls very stiff.
 

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Roundwing

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Mods #3 and #4 were to replace the control head torque arm and to improve the upper bearing for the pre-rotator.

The mounting holes for the upper bearing were too far back and made for such poor contact between the gear teeth they would slip half the time. I ruined a set of gears because of it.

I brazed more material to the upper bearing so that when the grease fitting went in it would seat properly.
 

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Mike484

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Love that pre-rotator system, I may need to look into doing the same on my KB3 build.
 

Mike484

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Got more info on the gear that I can use to order one?
Any more pics or details that may be helpful in building one? I have the KB3 pre-rotator so I have the shaft and upper unit already.
 

multimike

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Mods #3 and #4 were to replace the control head torque arm and to improve the upper bearing for the pre-rotator.

The mounting holes for the upper bearing were too far back and made for such poor contact between the gear teeth they would slip half the time. I ruined a set of gears because of it.

I brazed more material to the upper bearing so that when the grease fitting went in it would seat properly.

I had a similar situation with my Bendix upper drive unit. After losing the Zerk fitting through the prop (TWICE!!) and nicking my prop in the process, I safety wired the zerk to to prevent it's loss. Then, the bendix shaft was wearing the bronze bearing to an oval shape with caused the pinion gear to skip on the ring gear. I finally made my own upper bracket with a real ball bearing and it's been working great since. And, I don't need the grease gun anymore!
 

Roundwing

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Mod #6 new Tail feathers.
Finished welding and now need to cover with fabric.
I will be using the Stewart System of fabric cover.

The original rudder had a very heavy weight on the very leading edge.
How do I know if I need it?
Or should I put it on?

Rick
 

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mransleben

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in my days of fixed wing flying any portion of the control surface that protruded beyond center of pivot point was mass balanced, not sure that apply's here. My Bensen tail has a mass balance weight at the furthest point forward, so it may be a good idea to do the same. the way we used to do them in fixed wing was in your case lay your tail on it,s side and balance the rudder to center using some lead weights, once balanced then mold your lead into a disc shape and install it to either the outside or inside and will be covered from view once your covering is on. we did it with ailarons and elevaters as well as rudder.
 

Stan V

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Rick, very nicely done, I really like the way you designed your pre-rotor. Lite, effective and gets rid of the cable drag in the cyclic.
 

Mike484

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Is that the Ron Herron T-tail? He designed a great tail.
 

Roundwing

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in my days of fixed wing flying any portion of the control surface that protruded beyond center of pivot point was mass balanced, not sure that apply's here. My Bensen tail has a mass balance weight at the furthest point forward, so it may be a good idea to do the same. the way we used to do them in fixed wing was in your case lay your tail on it,s side and balance the rudder to center using some lead weights, once balanced then mold your lead into a disc shape and install it to either the outside or inside and will be covered from view once your covering is on. we did it with ailarons and elevaters as well as rudder.

After much thought I think I will do the mass balance.
Thanks.

Rick
 

Roundwing

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Is that the Ron Herron T-tail? He designed a great tail.

Mike,

I designed this one myself.

Copied shape from the tail that I replaced it with.

For simplicity sake I would do something similar to Ron's.

Rick
 
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GyroRon

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I would advise upgrading to better U joints in the pre rotator. Those old socket u joints will not hold up and will eventually break. I had them break on me on my first gyro. replaced them with u joints out of the steering column of a subaru car
 

Roundwing

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I would advise upgrading to better U joints in the pre rotator. Those old socket u joints will not hold up and will eventually break. I had them break on me on my first gyro. replaced them with u joints out of the steering column of a subaru car

Thanks Ron.

I will keep a close eye on them.

Rick
 

rwr

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Is that the Ron Herron T-tail? He designed a great tail.

Dave DeWinter designed the T-Tail Ron Herron makes and sells. It's a quality piece. Here's Dave landing his sub-powered Bensen in 2000. This is the original tail.
 

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