Wheel bolt torque

samouced

Active Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
110
Location
Ormond Beach, FL
Aircraft
KB-2/3
Total Flight Time
1300
Did some discover learning replacing the dry rotted tires on my KB-3. I initially tried to cut the old tire off but discovered the steel bead. So,
I removed the bolts holding the wheel halves together. I repacked the bearings too and have a cotter pin kit on order. To easy.

Now, what do I torque the bolts too?
KB3 tire1.jpgKB3 tire2.jpgKB3 tire3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Not sure of the torque. I do know most of those split rims will have don’t not exceed air pressure.
 
I went with the 30 psi thats on the tire.
Since the KB-3 has a rigid suspension. The guys in my club use a lower air pressure for a little shock absorption.
 
I went with the 30 psi thats on the tire.
Not sure but that sounds a little high. They will split and explode if too high. I want to say mine were limited to 28lbs. As stated above little less air pressure also helps add a little suspension.
 
Not sure but that sounds a little high. They will split and explode if too high. I want to say mine were limited to 28lbs. As stated above little less air pressure also helps add a little suspension.
Ill take them down to 25 then.
 
After some research, these are Ken Brock 6" wheels manufactured by him back in the day. No indication of torque or tire PSI.
 
It is good you are thinking about torque because that is an important part of how a fastener does its job.

There is a lot to learn about torque and bolt types and I recommend you spend some time reading up on it from sources like: https://blog.mountztorque.com/an-illustrated-guide-to-reading-aircraft-torque-bolt-charts-slp/

The best source is always the manufacture recommendations.

If that is not available sources like the one above will help you get close to the correct torque.

If you are working on an older experimental amateur built aircraft the correct bolts may have been replaced with something more convenient for the amateur to get so the more you learn the more likely you are to make the correct guess.

A torque wrench should be calibrated any time you are starting on a big project.

The axel nut does not have a specific torque and if you do not have experience with adjusting tapered wheel bearings there are lots of tutorials on the internet.

Part of an annual condition inspection includes cleaning, inspecting, lubricating and adjusting the wheel bearings.
 
Those look like 1/4" galv. would be 7lbs. (lubricated 3 to 4lbs.) If 5/16"-ish, galv. to 14lbs. (Lubricated 6lbs.) should be more than sufficient. Use some blue lock tight, it will lubricate, so use the lower torque plus 1lb..
You can look up torque charts. When doing generic stuff like this with a little lock tight, I wouldn't use a torque wrench, you can get 6lbs. by choking up on the handle. I would be more concerned with over torquing and breaking the bolt.
 
Thanks for the input guys! Great sources of information.
This gyro was built by an Air Force aircraft mechanic and I believe he robbed his shop because all the hardware on the aircraft is aircraft quality. It was flown and maintain by my dad (still living) who is a Nuclear Engineer that worked at NASA so he never took a shortcut. It is now mine and I have 30 years military aviation experience and will also not take any shortcuts.

This KB-3 will be checked out by a A&P before it will be flown again.

I also have some CFI instructed hours to complete to get rid of some of those nasty helicopter habits.
 
Not nasty, just saved for a different day and aircraft.

I have to go through a pedal use re-think every time I move from glider to helicopter to gyro or back again (let's see, adverse yaw from aileron drag, or torque change, or ... Oh heck, just keep the damn string straight!).
 
Top