What is the most important parts to constantly check on a RAF?

[Raf2000guy]

Hello everyone, I am a proud new owner of a 1997 RAF and I am cleaning up everything I can visually see that I don't like the looks of. Some of the items right now are :
Springs with rust and any rusting metal from humidity. The Copter was kept in a barn, but a little humidity got in there when the guy would open the doors while working on various equipment. Bad caulking on parts to keep water out like the wiring outside the cabin, Bolts that might be rusting, hoses that look old. I dont know if this is good or bad but the 1st owner of the copter was one of the original owners of the company before they sold the company. It was owned by the company and sold to another fella who flew it maybe 20 hrs before he had a stroke. When that happened, it went in the barn and got ran monthly to keep things working until I bought it a few months back. It currently has 46 HRs on the clock.

Currently, it has both the vertical and a horizontal dove tail stab. I was inspecting it and noticed that the right side of the horizontal stab has slightly higher tilt to it than the left and the curvature on the underside is thicker in one area. I found a post here somewhere the other day that said A1A designed a stab like that to counter motor torque. Is that the stab I have on this? I don't know.

These are a few things I am doing or want to do.
1. I am working on a new collapsible throttle handle that will fasten onto the inner wall of the body so I can pull a pin and it will fold downward and be out of the way when getting in and out. Is there one already fabricated that you can buy?
2. I am moving the choke to the dash as a lever.
3. I am going to design a pressure switch and flashing light on the dash to inform me if I forget to turn off the rotor brake. ( I hear this happens to the best pilots)
4. I want to move the axle back 3 inches and change it out for a 2 inch axle that is 2 ft longer to increase the wheel base width. I have read that because the axle is short, it can sometimes cause wobble or you can loose control when taking off. I experienced this on a ATV once. It was a Blaster and the wheel base was narrow and it tipped over very easy. I put a wider axle on the rear and it fixed that problem.
5. I want to put disc brakes on it but I am unsure where to get them and where to get the hubs right now. I found mechanical type that does not need hydraulic fluids from a gocart website.
6. I want to get a custom aluminum gas tank made so that the seat area is a bit more reclined for comfort. Anyone know where to get something like that?
7. I might repaint it at a later date.

Anyhow, I am so excited to get her flying and you guys know way more than I do, so any tips for safety are appreciated. Is there a parts list that exists that tells us where to get some of these parts that has part numbers?

 

[GyroChuck]

#1 Not that I know of

#4 What is the reason to move the axe back 3". That might mess with the geometry of the down tubes affecting their strength being at an angle.

#5 Gyro Technic Has the brakes and hubs you need.

A La Carte - Gyro Technic

This page highlights the quality and shows the level of detail that is present across our complete product line. Are you rebuilding / updating an aircraft? Are you constructing your own design? We are here to help! We carry many sub-assembly components to be used on gyroplanes, ultralight...

gyrotechnic.com

#6 I heard from some people that they had to go to a metal fabrication shop to have a tank made.

I can not tell from the photo but it looks like you have the Soob 2.2 engine. In Florida on a hot day with 2 up you will find it a little underpowered.

 

[grevis]

If you hunt on the net its easy to find a pdf document with all the product notices of upgrades that had to be carried out, so you can see if they have been completed on your machine. Of special importance there would be the recall of early hub bars.

 

[Vance]

Hello everyone, I am a proud new owner of a 1997 RAF and I am cleaning up everything I can visually see that I don't like the looks of. Some of the items right now are :
Springs with rust and any rusting metal from humidity. The Copter was kept in a barn, but a little humidity got in there when the guy would open the doors while working on various equipment. Bad caulking on parts to keep water out like the wiring outside the cabin, Bolts that might be rusting, hoses that look old. I dont know if this is good or bad but the 1st owner of the copter was one of the original owners of the company before they sold the company. It was owned by the company and sold to another fella who flew it maybe 20 hrs before he had a stroke. When that happened, it went in the barn and got ran monthly to keep things working until I bought it a few months back. It currently has 46 HRs on the clock.

Currently, it has both the vertical and a horizontal dove tail stab. I was inspecting it and noticed that the right side of the horizontal stab has slightly higher tilt to it than the left and the curvature on the underside is thicker in one area. I found a post here somewhere the other day that said A1A designed a stab like that to counter motor torque. Is that the stab I have on this? I don't know.

These are a few things I am doing or want to do.
1. I am working on a new collapsible throttle handle that will fasten onto the inner wall of the body so I can pull a pin and it will fold downward and be out of the way when getting in and out. Is there one already fabricated that you can buy?
2. I am moving the choke to the dash as a lever.
3. I am going to design a pressure switch and flashing light on the dash to inform me if I forget to turn off the rotor brake. ( I hear this happens to the best pilots)
4. I want to move the axle back 3 inches and change it out for a 2 inch axle that is 2 ft longer to increase the wheel base width. I have read that because the axle is short, it can sometimes cause wobble or you can loose control when taking off. I experienced this on a ATV once. It was a Blaster and the wheel base was narrow and it tipped over very easy. I put a wider axle on the rear and it fixed that problem.
5. I want to put disc brakes on it but I am unsure where to get them and where to get the hubs right now. I found mechanical type that does not need hydraulic fluids from a gocart website.
6. I want to get a custom aluminum gas tank made so that the seat area is a bit more reclined for comfort. Anyone know where to get something like that?
7. I might repaint it at a later date.

Anyhow, I am so excited to get her flying and you guys know way more than I do, so any tips for safety are appreciated. Is there a parts list that exists that tells us where to get some of these parts that has part numbers?

How much time do you have in gyroplanes?

What models have you flown?

Who did you get your instruction from?

I recommend transition training.

I have found several RAFs where the control push rod ends were not clocked correctly. I feel it is important to check that there is movement in all four corners of the cyclic movement and the maximum misalignment is not exceeded. The rod ends will fail if they exceed the maximum misalignment.

The nose wheel is often not clocked correctly in relation to the rudder. It usually takes some testing to get it right.

I have found fuel filters that were not serviced and did not flow well.

Often the wiring on an experimental amateur built aircraft does not hold up well. Check for good grounds, connections, low resistance and look for worn insulation.

The belt drive should be inspected carefully. I have found sprockets that were badly worn and bearings that needed to be replaced. The whole assembly needs to be carefully inspected for cracks.

If an RAF has been sitting for a long time the pre-rotator system should be inspected and the cable and housing cleaned and greased.

Often the mast bushings have turned to mush.

The plastic plates where the mast slides may deteriorate.

What I tell people about older amateur built aircraft is that the original builder may have had limited knowledge and each person who has worked on it since may know even less.

I have found that a condition inspection and sign off are often fiction.

The original blades for that aircraft will be timed out.

Sport Copter makes a nice conversion for the blades.

I wish you all the best on your gyroplane adventure.

 

[Greg Vos]

How much time do you have in gyroplanes?

What models have you flown?

Who did you get your instruction from?

I recommend transition training.

I have found several RAFs where the control push rod ends were not clocked correctly. I feel it is important to check that there is movement in all four corners of the cyclic movement and the maximum misalignment is not exceeded. The rod ends will fail if they exceed the maximum misalignment.

The nose wheel is often not clocked correctly in relation to the rudder. It usually takes some testing to get it right.

I have found fuel filters that were not serviced and did not flow well.

Often the wiring on an experimental amateur built aircraft does not hold up well. Check for good grounds, connections, low resistance and look for worn insulation.

The belt drive should be inspected carefully. I have found sprockets that were badly worn and bearings that needed to be replaced. The whole assembly needs to be carefully inspected for cracks.

If an RAF has been sitting for a long time the pre-rotator system should be inspected and the cable and housing cleaned and greased.

Often the mast bushings have turned to mush.

The plastic plates where the mast slides may deteriorate.

What I tell people about older amateur built aircraft is that the original builder may have had limited knowledge and each person who has worked on it since may know even less.

I have found that a condition inspection and sign off are often fiction.

The original blades for that aircraft will be timed out.

Sport Copter makes a nice conversion for the blades.

I wish you all the best on your gyroplane adventure.

Some solid good old school advice and as said get training on the RAF, great machines they are just not as easy to fly as the M16 or MTO, not difficult either just you need time with diciplined instructor
Good like and enjoy

 

[Raf2000guy]

I am getting training at this moment. Ive flown a Ranger only. I thank you guys for the input. I will check those areas out for sure. Anything else, feel free to respond.

 

[Raf2000guy]

Greg Spicola out of Luts Florida is my tainer. He was a designer for the Ranger 1.

 

[Vance]

Greg Spicola is a very good flight instructor with experience in lots of different gyroplanes.

In my opinion difference training will have value when you get your RAF flying.

 

[Resasi]

Good Instructor, nice guy, lots of experience. You are in good hands.

 

[dabkb2]

Hello RAF2000guy, welcome to the forum. There is a RAF in Chapter 31, we have designed and are selling a aluminum fuel tank that is a direct replacement, $800+ shipping.

 

[Raf2000guy]

Hello RAF2000guy, welcome to the forum. There is a RAF in Chapter 31, we have designed and are selling a aluminum fuel tank that is a direct replacement, $800+ shipping.

Does it have more vertical tilt than the standard plastic tank? The original tank is to straight backed. You said chapter 31, what or where is that? Thanks.

 

[Raf2000guy]

Greg Spicola is a very good flight instructor with experience in lots of different gyroplanes.

In my opinion difference training will have value when you get your RAF flying.

Yeah he is very through in his training. I was taking off and landing in my first lesson which freaked me out but im still here so any lsnding you walk away from is sucess. LoL When he went over the switches and process to start the Ranger I was intimidated but managed it. The Raf is simple to start compared to the Ranger but those switches go to all the back up pumps, magnetos and things so I understand testing them all is good.

 

[dabkb2]

Does it have more vertical tilt than the standard plastic tank? The original tank is to straight backed. You said chapter 31, what or where is that? Thanks.

I think it is 90°. PRA chapter 31 in in San Diego CA