Webber 750 engine

[WHY]

Ok try this www.weber-automotive.com/de/dynamic and click on the thread "multi purpose motor heads" Dec 7 2006

Tony

 

[WHY]

Sorry guys I just can't seem to get the site right

Tony

 

[WHY]

This seems to work , go to Google type weber motors multi purpose heads. This takes you right to the link dated Dec 7 2006 labeled weber motors multipurpose heads. I think it will be the first link.

Tony

 

[JEFF TIPTON]

Try this link.

http://www.weber-automotive.com/de/dynamic/aktuelles/details/period/1151704800/7948799/archived/back_to/archiv-2/nachrichten/multi-purpose-motorheads/index.html

 

[WHY]

That's it, thanks Jeff.

Tony

 

[ROTORTEC]

Radiator

Radiator

Do you think ROTORTEC, would let us know which ECU and its setup they used, radiator? Or is it trait secrets for them?

We are using 2 small Radiators. We can give you details if it helps you. This is no secret and they not high price, As for the flywheel we are using Stainless,
The Wiring Harness on the Walbro Unit is a short Version made for us only, the Original is fahr to long and to haevy.

John

 

[ROTORTEC]

Radiators

Radiators



Picture shows Air Intake Location vor Radiators sitting behind the Saets.

John

 

[WHY]

HI John

Are you using 4 blades on the rotor ??

Tony

 

[WHY]

In the article from post #904, did anyone else notice the comment in the first paragraph that the MPE-V4 "may" make it's debut in the "Chinese" auto industry. Note also that this is a 2006 year article. Wouldn't it be interesting if one of the best engines of the future for large two place gyro's begins it's market in China. If this engine hits the market, I feel quite sure it will replace the Subaru as engine of choice.

Tony

 

[Friendly]

View attachment 78199

Picture shows Air Intake Location vor Radiators sitting behind the Saets.

John

John,
Thank you for the feedback. it is interesting that you do not have your radiators in close to the prop. I like that.

I have a radiator that is suppose to be for the Audi 90E on the 582. I have not been able to find it elsewhere.
The more I look at it, it appears to be a Honda Civic. I hope it is, because they are plentiful around here.
Brand new 36 to 40 dollars for all aluminum.

I will not be able to add a large enough flywheel between the pinion gear and the block at this time. I do have a large drum on the prop will help and I can add a small 2-3 pound flywheel before the pinion gear.

I will make a test run, just to have a starting point for frame of reference. Then I will remove everything and start a new adapter plate to the engine which will allow a larger wheel to be installed with the proper amount of weight. I will remove the larger drum on the prop after that.
I also will replace my current ECU for a dedicated unit without all the snowmobile stuff.

 

[ROTORTEC]

Hi Mark,

About the Radiators I do not know, for the Flywheel and the propper weight and size look at E-bay under "Polaris MXS" and you will find lots of Parts including Flywheels. Without you will not have any Luck of get the Engine
to work.

John

Hi Toni, yes we are only use the 4 Bladed System on the CD II and only the the Weber with 135 HP

 

[Friendly]

Very informative. I'll will get one. No I don't have access to much. I'm barely a beginner in all of this. :help:

Doc,
I did not mean to discourage you. I just thought it would be easier to go with the Microsquirt, but if you want to experiment with the Weber set up. Maybe I can save you sometime sorting through the some of the mess.

If you have down loaded the Manuel for the weber, and you flip over to the wiring diagrams you will see that the Weber has to have the starter relay active for the other two relays to become active.
So you will need to gather up all of the grounds and made sure they are grounded. Back to the neg on the battery. Also the Starter Solenoid.
A simple bolt and nut will do this if you temporaly attach to the base of the Solenoid. See picture one.

The ECU has a couple of brown leads that must be ground to it as well. and run a jumper back to the Neg post just to make sure you have good grounds. See Picture 2&3

 

[Friendly]

If you have all of your sensors plugged into the proper fittings and have your oil lines / coolant lines hooked up. You may say, well I am ready to fire this baby up. When you discover you need the switch. This is the easy part. The Weber switch harness is the same a many, cheap lawnmower switches so for testing you can just use one of those. The switch wire block will look just like the wiring diagram. Or look at picture 1 and 2 . Look at picture 3 for a simple lawnmower switch.

The two tabs that are across from each other are the Battery and Starter wires, the tab at top and bottom ground everything and cause the relays to open stopping the engine. When the switch is in ON position, it opens the ground circuit but does not make anything hot. If you short across the two horizontal tabs the motor would start, but you have no way to kill it. so you ought to use a switch. I have seen this for sale for 7 to 12 dollars.

The empty bin corresponds to the tab on the switch for Lights, sometimes marked L.
But there is more.............

 

[Friendly]

When you turn your key, nothing happens. It will be probably one of two things:
1-the roll over switch is still in the wiring harness and it is not standing straight up. See picture 1 for what it looks like and make sure it is vertical.

2-the emergency shut-off on the snowmobile handlebar is not in it up position so the cpu thinks the motor has been shut down due to an emergency. This is referred to as a flapper switch in the wiring diagram and you can see that it is also tied into throttle position that has some resistors attached. One value for throttle on dead idle and another value for when the throttle is off of idle.

The CPU compares the two values to the voltage from the Throttle Position Sensor. (TPS). By now you must be saying, I am nuts , you don't have the handle bars or any of the snowmoblie pieces. I know how you feel. I have never even see a snowmobile except on the web or TV.
This is a very unique plug. It has one corner different than the other corners so look over all that wiring and find a plug that looks like picture 2 & 3

 

[Friendly]

That plug will have a blue, purple, orange and black wire into it. You will also find a light blue wire with a male insert near this plug in the wiring harness. See picture 1.

Take this Light blue wire and plug it into the female fitting for the orange wire in the 4way plug and you should have just bypassed the handlebars. See remainder of pictures here.

 

[Friendly]

Doc,
I only have an Iphone to take pictures and video right now. My regular video is broken and camera is loaned out so. I hope the pictures are good enough to give you an Ideal about some of the hurdles you need to cross.

There will be lots of wires and plugs left over that must be sorted out before removing them. This will probably give your CPU lots of failed codes that do not even apply to what your are doing.
You should be able to start your engine and run it with this information.
I am not a Polaris mechanic, or aircraft mechanic or expert on anything. So your results may differ from what I got.

I hope this helps someone to get their Weber running in a shorter time and to get it to a point that we can all have a Weber running in a vehicle of our choice.
I plan to crow hop mine on my Birthday.

Doc,
Maybe there will be some Mechanical help where Uncle Sam is sending you , I hope so
Now when you hit the switch you should get something like this:
YouTube - Weber 0032

 

[Friendly]

Doc

I got my Microsquirt EFI/ECU system at www.diyautotune.com good price and lots of info. You can go the www.microsquirt.com where they have a GREAT FORUM with all kinds of questions and answers, you can join, it's free and ask any questions you want. They have lots of bikers there and they ask a lot of the same questions we would have about our engines like the Weber.

Tony

Tony,
Have you started programing your ECU?
Are you going to develope you own maps or , maybe use what the watercraft guys are using?
Do you happen to know what the flow rate for the EV-6 injectors , or , will you use something different?
Anybody else have any ideals on this? Post soon, it looks like my compter flat screen is going out!!

 

[WHY]

Hi Mark

No, I haven't started on the ECU yet, am waiting on the re-drive. Due to my total ignorance on computers/ ECU's I will be stumbling along with many questions to the Microsquirt forum. Have a friend next door that is a whiz on computers so will likely call on him on some week end to try to utilize his expertise. This will all be some time down the road until some decent weather arrives. First have to get a fuse/relay block from a salvage auto to start figuring out where and how to mount it to the firewall, my set up will have two "multi-plugs" on the firewall and then a seperate harness from outside the firewall to the engine, so it will get a little complicated.

Tony

Will probably end up using something like a bike map

 

[Jason O]

Wiring harness

Wiring harness

Hello All,

When I was doing the Yamaha, I had to deal with all the "features" like engine shutting down for throttle position sensor, coolant temp, oil level. What I did was use the wireing diagram to find the sensor leads and then read the snowmobile manual to find out how to test the sensor and then fool the ECU into thinking everything was normal. For example, the manual gave different resistance for the water temp sensor at low, normal and high opperating temperatures. I just jumped those two terminals on the ECU with a resister that matched the resistance of the sensor in the normal range. For the throttle position sensor, I just had to jump the two terminals with a wire because the switch needs to be closed in normal opperations. In the end my ECU only had about 5 wires comming from it. I did not use the Yamaha dash at all and used all the existing instruments in the dash of my airplane to monitor the engine.

This engine was not fuel injected, so I only had to deal with ignition and, charging and all of those special snowmobile "features"

Jason

 

[Friendly]

Hello All,

When I was doing the Yamaha, I had to deal with all the "features" like engine shutting down for throttle position sensor, coolant temp, oil level. What I did was use the wireing diagram to find the sensor leads and then read the snowmobile manual to find out how to test the sensor and then fool the ECU into thinking everything was normal. For example, the manual gave different resistance for the water temp sensor at low, normal and high opperating temperatures. I just jumped those two terminals on the ECU with a resister that matched the resistance of the sensor in the normal range. For the throttle position sensor, I just had to jump the two terminals with a wire because the switch needs to be closed in normal opperations. In the end my ECU only had about 5 wires comming from it. I did not use the Yamaha dash at all and used all the existing instruments in the dash of my airplane to monitor the engine.

This engine was not fuel injected, so I only had to deal with ignition and, charging and all of those special snowmobile "features"

Jason

Thanks Jason,
I wish I could get more feedback from the Yamaha fans.,
If I tell the ECU that the temp is normal, I am not sure that it will supply the extra fuel for initial startup and if the idle air motor will adjust the rpm for the start up, Like the choke does for a carb. Also the temp will select the pulse time for the injectors. I am sure Vance or Automan could really describe this much better than I That is great that you only had 5 wires.

We have 32 wires or pins in the 1st plug, 48 in the second, and another 32 in the 3rd.

This is what it needs to be reduced to:
sensors & controls for Boost Pressure,Crank poistion, Air intake Pressure/Temp, Knock ,Pto & Mag coils, Pto and Mag injector, Cam phase, Engine Coolant, Lambda , Ambient Pressure, Throttle Position, and Wastegate

If I get an aftermarket ECU, I can hook up a laptop to the motor and map the performance at all of the temps, and all of the rpm range. Most have a data log feature that you can see what it is doing in flight.
Maybe all of that can be done with the Poloris ECU? I don't know. I have a code reader, I am going to try on it before I swap the ECUs.