Vortec's Rotor Blades

I have them on both my Air Command (24') and my RAF (30').

While I like the way they fly, I'm not qualified to give you any really meaningful analysis.

I do know that the 30' blades on my RAF seem smoother than the RAF blades were.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Tommy
 
The aluminum blades.

The blades on the Air Comnand were on it when I bought it.

The RAF blades were 3550 then. Likely more now.

Tommy
 
Historically, anyway, Vortech was somewhat like Amazon.com: They didn't make anything, they made deals with builders of various products to market those products. The extruded blades were Flecks, the sheet-metal blades were Rotorhawks or Rotordynes, and so on.

Vortech was not very discriminating. They sold unauthorized copies of the Bensen plans at one time. They also sold plans for craft that appeared to be "vapor-ware": craft that didn't necessariy exist.

I can't imagine the leading blade-builders, Sportcopter and Dragon Wings, selling in bulk to Vortech.

I don't know about the composite blades. I'd want to learn the background and experience of the designer and builder before trusting my life to them.

As usual in homebuilt-land: buyer beware!
 
Last edited:
When I first started looking for light aircraft to get into, c2005, Vortech came up on the search quickly. It was actually the site that first got me to thinking, and changed my mind about buying/flying FW and instead get into gyrocopters! Never bought anything from them, but they did serve a valuable, functional purpose to bring at least this pilot into the gyro groove.
 
Fleck blades

Fleck blades

I have a set of them. They are slightly tail heavy, but not objectionable in gusts. On my next set I will add a brass rod to bring them into balance. They are easy to mount and set up.

The nose insert must be epoxied into the blade body. I believe there was an accident in Puerto Rico where the insert was only attached with silicone caulk. It detached in flight with unfortunate results.

I believe the dies are now owned by Phoenix Rotorcraft in NC.

Larry
 
Clarification

Clarification

I have a set of them. They are slightly tail heavy, but not objectionable in gusts. On my next set I will add a brass rod to bring them into balance. They are easy to mount and set up.

The nose insert must be epoxied into the blade body. I believe there was an accident in Puerto Rico where the insert was only attached with silicone caulk. It detached in flight with unfortunate results.

I believe the dies are now owned by Phoenix Rotorcraft in NC.

Larry

Just wanted to add clarification to this post to add fairness. The gentleman in Puerto Rico purchased components and not completed blades (save money???). He decided to assemble the blades himself and made two mistakes, (1) he used silicone instead of epoxy and then (2) did not have his blade straps bolted through the nose insert.

If anyone is interested in seeing how Phoenix Rotorcraft in Louisburg, NC does a correct assembly, please visit their website and look in the parts section. Anthony Croenlein is a true machinist and I am currently having him make me a set of 24' blades for the Dominator. Anthony's blades are powder coated white, extremely smooth and compete well with Sportcopter or Dragonwings and his prices when compared with other extruded blades are approximately $1000 less. Do your own reading and compare......
 
fully assembled

fully assembled

Capt'n
Since you are getting a set of blades, perhaps you can explain the additional insert behind the middle web which is shown on the website photo. It doesn't look like it belongs there and doesn't seem to fit properly.

In addition, it would likely make the blades even more tail heavy. Mine are acceptable, but I don't think I'd want that handling feature.

Larry
 
Capt'n
Since you are getting a set of blades, perhaps you can explain the additional insert behind the middle web which is shown on the website photo. It doesn't look like it belongs there and doesn't seem to fit properly.

In addition, it would likely make the blades even more tail heavy. Mine are acceptable, but I don't think I'd want that handling feature.

Larry

The insert behind the middle web is a short block piece epoxied in to attach the back end of the end cap to, it is only about 1" long.
 
My question is why spend $4000.00 for a set of blades that require all that balancing and gluing when you can get a set of proven pre flown and balanced dragon wings for much less ? Don;t make sense to me!
 
They are pretty expensive. Anthony did say that they are complete including balancing and tracking. You will not have to do anything to the blades at all. He also uses a thicker hub bar Than the DW. He also has a solid extruded 8 1/8" cord with the aluminum spar slid into the blade. It is bolted with like 7 or 8 bolts total. I believe there is 4- 1/4" bolts through the main part of the spar and 4- 5/16" bolts runing down through the trailing edge of the spar. All of them run through the spar and air foil. There is no way the blade will detach. The Spar is also glued and time cured. These blades are heavy also. No gluing the skin to the spar on the leading edge like the DW rotors. Granted the DW rotors has a great glue but it the thought of one peeking off that bothers me. Maybe in age it may come loose.
http://www.phoenix-rotorcraft.com/#!
 
Last edited:
I bought a set from Phoenix and I am pleased with them. I don't know about being tracked. They are balanced. They also have holes at the tips, where a split pin can be inserted and string connected to ensure they are alligned corectly. Mine came with pins, string and bolts etc.

john
 
Bare metal rotors have proven far too maintenance intensive for me. I need something...anything...with paint on it.

I'm currently looking for two sets...and they will have paint on them...even if I have to do it myself.



They are pretty expensive. Anthony did say that they are complete including balancing and tracking. You will not have to do anything to the blades at all. He also uses a thicker hub bar Than the DW. He also has a solid extruded 8 1/8" cord with the aluminum spar slid into the blade. It is bolted with like 7 or 8 bolts total. I believe there is 4- 1/4" bolts through the main part of the spar and 4- 5/16" bolts runing down through the trailing edge of the spar. All of them run through the spar and air foil. There is no way the blade will detach. The Spar is also glued and time cured. These blades are heavy also. No gluing the skin to the spar on the leading edge like the DW rotors. Granted the DW rotors has a great glue but it the thought of one peeking off that bothers me. Maybe in age it may come loose.
http://www.phoenix-rotorcraft.com/#!
 
Why

Why

Bare metal rotors have proven far too maintenance intensive for me. I need something...anything...with paint on it.
.

In this day, as much understanding as we have about what a rotor blade needs, surely someone can build blades that will have a 24-25% cg after painting?????:help:
 
There are three units of surface area behind vs ahead and each unit of distance away from the center increases the moment arm of the paint added- you would need to account for it in calculation or process. Since adding paint adds weight you are precluding using the blades bare by designing them to balance with paint.
 
Ok

Ok

There are three units of surface area behind vs ahead and each unit of distance away from the center increases the moment arm of the paint added- you would need to account for it in calculation or process. Since adding paint adds weight you are precluding using the blades bare by designing them to balance with paint.

OK...Understood. But 90% of folks would like to paint their blades to compliment their scheme. It makes more sense to me that blade manufacturers should please the largest majority.
 
Top