Just looked at the pics.........
Just looked at the pics.........
OK, just commenting on the pics as I look at them:
First front right view: gear is canted out, why because too much weight on the gyobee shock system, looks like it is bottomed out and the wheel is sitting on a brick, if the wheels stays like that not only bad tire wear but axle failure and bearing failure will occur. Looks like a Brock cyclic but that plastic block does have to go, it may be strong but it will wear quickly and more than likely the holes will loosen and become sloppy or even fail. The sheet horizontal, eh maybe but the sheet rudders without stiffeners??? No way they will deform and eventually fail. I have a sheet of 1/8 al that has been just leaning against my wall in the shop for 6 months that has a bend in the center from its own weight. Rudder deflections will work harden the rudders and cause cracking and failure without stiffeners.
Second rear right view: Ok the engine mount in this view is bad, it may work for a while but it will definitely not work for long. The gyroscopic loads will crack and tear the rear support, there is nothing really there.
Third right engine view: That control rod has to go, I don't care how well the tube is welded or what is inside the tube, it will not stand up to the offcenter forces of the flight loads, it will bend over time if not fail. If he wont remake it the least he can do is put gussets in to spread the load so there is not point load at each corner. The only thing I see worthy is the lower forward engine mount, the rest of the mount wont hold up to use.
Fourth lower right side engine: Those belcranks have to go, too thin won't last to use of the rudder and the pushrods look awful thin too. Take that folded rubber our of the engine mount and buy a real lord mount. Good view of the rear engine brace to tube, won't last it will twist that little thing right off just from running the engine at high power settings, the movement of the engine from the gyroscopic loads in flight will tear it loose. It is not even held in any kind of alignment, one bolt thur each piece of angle and nothing to stop the rotation of the two metals but friction. That mount also looks like a little large instrument panel shock mount, maybe a bit thicker but definitely not thick enough to handle a VW.
Fifth gang plate for keels and mast: the hardware even if it is stainless will fail. I bet it is threaded all the way from the head to the nut, it will chew into the metals and the threads I guarantee were cut into it so it is significantly weaker than the shear stresses given for rod of the same size which i am sure that is where he is figuring from.
Sixth Cyclic control and instrument pod mount: ok first the pod mount is pop riveted on, that thing is so heavy and so much drag that the 4 pop rivets can possibly keep it secure after repeated flights they will pull thru or shear. The Nylon block has to go, bend a proper control stick.
If it flys I personally don't think it will last. Looking at the cheek plates...no way he did a hang test and it passed. I put a 503 on my bee and had to make different plates those definitely look wrong for a VW installation on a bee. Please don't take it personally but you need to have a few different experience gyro pilots and builders look over it, and please please please fix what they find wrong.
Oh, I just read your post Ron, yes it needs to be fixed before it becomes another statistic
Steve you are right also but hopefully if enough people are willing to help maybe he might rethink it and accept the help and hopefully get some instruction too.