The new gyro

Australian science Chuck, upside down.
To be honest we have just had one the most humid summers that I can remember seeing here, it was crap.
I could understand your cattle going to feed lots, to much green grass can be rank and just go's straight through them. They don't put on weight without some roughedge. Once our grass here starts to hay off the cattle really start bulk up.
Wow I had know idea about Florida's population, amazing.
Of all the flying footage of the USA I have seen I am amazed at the amount of open unpopulated country, hard to imagine with your population and land mass not a whole lot larger then Oz.

wolfy
Tempature also comes into play here in this part of Aussie land , when it is cold , a lot of the feed they eat goes to keeping themselves warm , but when it warms up and there is plenty of feed around in the later part of spring that is when they put a lot of their weight on
 
The new bendix pinion is in.

So what I ended up with is a Ford 2N/8N tractor inertia bendix pinion which is a 9 tooth by 29mm diameter, this replaces the standard (wonderlich bendix) pinion of 9 tooth by 25mm.
The 29mm pinion meshes perfectly with a Suzuki G13 ring gear with 100 teeth to give an 11 to 1 final drive ratio.
There is some modifying and miss matching required.

My original outer housing (pinion drive housing) needed to be opened up from 25mm to 29mm so a mate re-cut that with his wire EDM (should have got some pics before assembly) for a perfect fit.
Then the pinion was shortened and new reliefs cut and then a bush was shrunk in to reduce the bore size.

11-1 gives an increase in rotor rpm, but I only did it because my rotor head already had a metric ring gear and there is no metric inertia style of bendix's that I could find.
Probably not worth the effort if starting from scratch just to go down to 11-1 as it's easier to just adjust pulley diameters at the other end to get the desired final drive ratio.
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wolfy
 
I just noticed the screws on the stopblocks on the head -

shouldn't they be countersunk all the way down the stopblocks,

so they can't touch the hub bar?

I had to make my own so I could use the Auto-Gyro type1 tower.

Cheers
Erik
 
I just noticed the screws on the stopblocks on the head -

shouldn't they be countersunk all the way down the stopblocks,

so they can't touch the hub bar?

I had to make my own so I could use the Auto-Gyro type1 tower.

Cheers
Erik
If I understand what your talking about correctly,
That screw you are talking about is not through the stop block but it is the bolt that go's though the hub bar and bolts the pillow block (teeter block) to the hub bar. There are no bolts that can contact the hub bar.

wolfy
 
hi @wolfy following my posting #127 I have made some modifications to improve adjustment.

To centralise the rotor I use two bushes each with a 2.5mm shoulder.

500 size 2.5mm equal sized.jpg
To achieve finer adjustment I have designed a shim carrier which slides over the shoulder of the bush and can hold within it shims of 0.1mm each to a maximum of X4 giving an adjustment of +-1mm in 0.1 increments. The shim carriers are used with bushes with shoulders between 1mm-3mm.

500size SHIM CARRIER 2.jpg500 size SHIM CARRIER 1.jpg500 size SHIM CARRIER 3.jpg

What do you think? Have I overlooked something?

phil
 
A few mates have fitted Edge big bore kits to their 914’s with good results, around 125hp apparently.

Be careful of the lithium battery, I know of a few that have overheated in Magni gyros. Autogyro have issued a Safety Bulletin to replace theirs.

Looking forward to your report on how it flies.
Older, cobalt based lithium batteries did have the capacity for thermal runaway. Newer chemistry LiFePO4 batteries? Even if you massively overcharge them, they will swell up, perhaps burst, but not catch fire. Fire with LiFePO4 batteries are normally caused by shorts igniting nearby combustibles. You can find several videos of people intentionally trying to get a LiFePO4 battery to catch fire by overcharging in freezing weather, pushing massive amps in, etc.
 
That's impressive.
 
I believe they are a different brand than yours. Apparently when running under a heavy load the battery can overheat and starts emitting smoke.
I’m pretty sure Lithium batteries are banned on commercial flights as they have been known to catch fire.
Mind you I had one in my gyro for five years without a problem.
Rick Dad started using Lithium Iron batteries just before he retired. They are almost as light and no fire history.
 
I saw only the first two landings. Perfect!!

I think that Inquiring Mind should see that video!!
 
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It fly's, Test flying started today.
So far just a few flights down the strip, but it flies better than expected.
Big big shout out to Chuck Beaty for steering me in the direction of a round chromo mast.
My last few gyro's were super smooth but this one is just amazing, it really is aeroplane smooth. Not even the slightest amount of 2 per rev at all, absolutely nothing. Thanks Chuck.
Looking forward to some more flights.
I don't usually take video's, but video's will be coming.

wolfy
Please can you post details of the mast? Very interesting
 
She seems to fly well.

Very nice piloting!

She is simply brilliant!
 
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Here is a picture of a gyro dad built in 1987. It was the first centerline thrust machine he built. It was made from 3 in 6061T6 tubing on the mast and front keel. The rear keel and engine mount were all welded 4130 Chrome Molly. It was a two place side by side powered by a 532 Rotax swinging a 72” prop. It would pull 425lbs of Thrust. Later I took the dual seats off and made it a hot rod of a single place. I flew it for another 4 years.
 
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