Tail Configurations?

Resasi

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Thanks for the heads up on the 90, good thinking.

The shocks were off a small Kart and quite soft.

The Poly ones can be made of softer material, it comes in different hardness's. Thinking of maybe having a couple for different types of surface.

Or instead of having the one big one, having it in three rings so you can vary the compressability by mixing different types of material.

Yes that coating is a great idea. The Bensen I fly has a dipped and after ten years looks almost like new.
 

Dirtydog

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Dip Coating

Dip Coating

Resasi : not sure how much it will cost but I think it has to be sent off to somewhere in Charleston, SC for me. But if it will help keep the rust off it I am all for it.
 

danmcgee

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In regards to the shock guys here is the ones I was thinking of using, they come in 450, 850 and 100lbs limits. I also am going to use this instrument pod and DD there is a nice red one for you. The pods are $79 and the shock $25 in ebay.

Dan
 

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Resasi

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Nice looking pods and shock Dan.

Yes some of the Rissington guys sent their exhausts off for coating as a group. I think it was in the region of $180 each.
 

Dirtydog

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Shock

Shock

danmcgee : The little shock sure doesn't have much travel on it. Also mine has sideways play and it has O time on it. It is maybe 1/4" play. Might want to check it out!

Resasi : OUCH! Hey I just had to buy me a new bench sander from lowes. My other one was 25 years old fell apart. Craftsman $79.00 when I bought it.
 

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danmcgee

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That is due to the mounting system that Dana used. No matter what you do it is going to have sidways travle. As far as deflection in the shock I do not know what the rating is on the one you are using looks the same type but if it is two week you should up the size by 2. i.e if it rating is 450lb up the size to a 650 if 550 up to 750. That will take the play out of your system some deflection in the spring is still wanted to provide a smooth ride and will help reduce rotor bounce to hard and the taxi is rought and can add rotor bounce not the same as rotor flap.
 
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danmcgee

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Maybe I should explain my comment. The connection was accomplished on your airframe by cutting a connector tube one end single bolt to the shock strut and the other end single bolt through the shock this did nothing but provide two pivet points for the shock and strut. Should have just increased the size of the shock strut to the outside diamitor of the shock then would provide a tight fit and no play in the system. Thats what I did with mine and it does not move side to side at all. I also used the 750lb shock to provide plenty of shocking power and still get a great taxi ride.

Dan
 

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Shock!

Shock!

I looked on mine Dan it is the same one you posted it is just mine is a different color. Don't know how we go on shocks.
 
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Dirtydog

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Oh I thing the topic turned to shock and got off the Tail feathers.:sorry:
 

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Tail feather question?

Tail feather question?

What can the max height of gyrobee V-stab be?
I have been working on one that is 38" tall and wanted to make sure I am not going to have to chop any off once I get it mounted because of the blades hitting it. Kind of like to find out what everyone height is! :cool:
 
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Dirtydog

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Question help please!

Question help please!

Here is a question I asked.
What can the max height of gyrobee V-stab be? :help:

So if my tail is 38" is this ok?
 

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Timchick : 38! But I was wanting to know I might want to build one later that is taller. So I thought I would ask now.
 

GrantR

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Chris my tail is not offset at all and I require only a little rudder once up to speed. Now going slow with low throttle it takes a lot but with the throttle full and the gyro moving along its just a tad.

Your prop turns Clockwise when looking from behind so the slip stream hits the right side of the vertical stab causing it to yaw right thus you need left pedal to compensate.

Is your tail offset with the leading edge to the right side of the keel and the trailing edge to the left side?

With that big of a rudder I still don’t understand why you need so much pedal. My little flat plate V stab works great.

What kind of engine rpms and speed are you traveling at?
 

Vance

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Everyone :
I have seen the H-Stab built all kinds of ways. I have also noticed when people put them on they are off centered. To help with rudder control....I would think this was right....:twitch:

Reason I ask I had a crosswind coming from my right side and I did not have enough rudder to compensate for the amount of wind that was blowing. I had to stop 2 times to regain position on the runway. After which I was fine. then when I came back I did notice that I did not have to use any left pedal at all, again the crosswind coming from my Left side.

My question is if you off set the H-stab and put a trim tab on the rudder would this help gain some of the rudder control back?

I know what you are talking about and I apologize for seeming pedantic.

It is my understanding that the H Stab is short for the horizontal stabilizer.

I feel you are referring to the vertical stabilizer and rudder or simply the rudder if you have a full flying rudder.

On most designs I have seen the vertical stabilizer or the rudder is offset to compensate for the way the prop wash hits the vertical surface.

I feel it is an important safety consideration to have enough rudder authority in both directions to deal with whatever conditions you fly in.

When my environmental requirements exceed my rudder authority in a cross wind landing I will land at an angle to the runway to mange this shortcoming.

The slower I go without power the less rudder authority I have. If I have any forward speed when I touch down I feel being aligned with my ground track is very important. Adding a little power helps with rudder authority in the aircraft I fly.

Thank you, Vance
 

RockyMeLad

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It takes a lot of Left pedal to keep it going down the runway straight. If there is a crosswind coming from the right well forget it. I found out that the other day.......
Is your tail offset with the leading edge to the right side of the keel and the trailing edge to the left side?
NO it is straight down the keel. This is why I was think about a trim tab at the end of the rudder......
Yo Dog,

I can only recommend. But two things come to mind.

1) Since the prop flow is across the keel right to left, most have found it efficient to off-set the vertical stab. Why insist on "reinventing the wheel?" This is what we were discussing with hawhi.
Note also that a trim tab only affects the amount of rudder pedal pressure, but has no affect on the amount of throw of the rudder in either direction. That was your problem... "running out of rudder motion/range".

2) Air "leaking" through the hinge line can waste a significant amount of your rudder authority. I used foam rubber insulation to "seal" the gap,but other methods also work. Just to demonstrate the effect. . .
hold the rudder full left and "seal" the gap with duct tape along the right side. Be sure the rudder motion is free, then see how much better the rudder controls than with the open gap along the hinge line. So far this experiment has convinced everyone who's tried it, from model airplanes on up.

NOTE: #2 will NOT "fix" the problem noted originally with a straight vertical stab.

Of course using a "tall tail" that is in the full height of the prop flow is ideal, you can't argue against success like Dominators and the various Carlinators.
 
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Friendly

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What is the primary purpose of the HS? The forces a stab works to dampen during normal flight are not present during an engine out glide. Rudder authority would be important during an engine-out but is stab dampening? If so, what is it dampening?
Tim,
That brings to mind something that has not been mentioned. If you are in a vertical decent and the HS is on the keel, the rudder no longer has air flowing across it because the HS is blocking it. I heard a gyro doing a vertical decent and not having the rudder authority to come out of the spin. Pilot was not hurt, but machine was.
 

phantom

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tail configurations

tail configurations

for those who believe that a hs serves no purpose with the engine off try this. with a gyro glider on a 1000 or so foot cable go as high as you can, drop the nose and release , take notice of how it feels in pitch control,then measure the v tail and make 2 more the same size and attach one on each side and brace with struts or cables, hang test and move head or add weight to the nose and try again and you will see it makes a world of difference.
Jerry Barnett told me to do that back in the 70's and that was his way to get the size for the hs, twice as big as the vs.
 

Redbaron

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dog you might wanna practice when the wind has layed down more or atleast when there isn't any crosswind to deal with. Your tail looks pretty big and the wind could be just messing with you. In my FW plane sometimes you couldn't turn around on the ground if you were going from a headwind to a tailwind! ;)

Everyone :
I have seen the V-Stab built all kinds of ways. I have also noticed when people put them on they are off centered. To help with rudder control....I would think this was right....:twitch:

Reason I ask I had a crosswind coming from my right side and I did not have enough rudder to compensate for the amount of wind that was blowing. I had to stop 2 times to regain position on the runway. After which I was fine. then when I came back I did notice that I did not have to use any left pedal at all, again the crosswind coming from my Left side.

My question is if you off set the V-stab and put a trim tab on the rudder would this help gain some of the rudder control back?
 
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