Starting My Bee finally!

All my gyros use 1/8 6061t6 at the keel mast but they are wider to spead the loads out. I never did like the bee keel to mast plate set up.
As for drilling all the holes to size and them hoping you can do the same on the tubes.
I have said this before but drill all holes in the tubes with 3/16 bits. then one side at a time drill the plates, bolt it up with 3/16 juke bolts. one at a time fril each hole to 1/4.

This is how I do it.
 
Brent_Brown said:
I have said this before but drill all holes in the tubes with 3/16 bits. then one side at a time drill the plates, bolt it up with 3/16 juke bolts. one at a time fril each hole to 1/4.

This is how I do it.


That's how I did mine Brent.
But I finished them off with a 1/4" reamer one at a time.
 
Brent,

I think you are right about the relative size of the mast/keel cluster plates. Perhaps this is why stainless was specified instead of 1/8 aluminum. The holes are real close to the edge.

But on the bright side, I have never heard of one of the stainless plates failing on a Bee either.
 
Do you wanna know the conversation I had with wicks, actually not a conversation, a Email. I hope I get my purchase refunded or new parts sent to me.

Hello I called earlier regarding my order I placed with you. My name Is Jason Knight

Invoice Number:10469595
Cust No. 100149774

I believe I was talking with Cheri, My PDA broke so I no longer have her e-mail address. I kept calling wondering where my package was and she said it was shipped priority, which normally takes 2-3 days "regardless of size" It finally arrived Jan 17(15 days late) when I found out that it was not even shipped Priority AT ALL. It was shipped via ground shipping and it was damaged during the trip, There was a hole ripped in the side of the box and almost 3/4 of the packing was gone when I opened it. The pieces had become lose and during handling gouged on the sides and corners of the 2x2 aluminum square tubing, The Angle was scratched up on the sides and the only 2 things that were fine was one piece of angle and the (2).120 wall tubing itself. I attached a file containg pictures that I told Cheri I would send to you, They may look like nothing but I have a bad camera and cannot take close up pictures, they are infact scratched quite bad. The pictures are only from ONE piece of the 2x2! The other piece and angle is just as damaged. Also the Rip in the box and The stickers that were on the box are included. Maybe the priority sticker was ripped off. Cheri said it is possible. I am just asking for a replacement for only the damaged items. I know of many other people who have purchased from your company and are GREATLY satisfied, I am just sorry that I had a bad experience my first buy, maybe some mixups. Thank you and please write back asap.

-Jason Knight

o yea and I am ordering a 2x2' of stainless just for you guys....and my safety lol
 
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Jason, I have a set of stainless cluster plates if you need them. I had made extras out of the material I had when I built mine. they are drilled.
 
gyroparts said:
Jason, I have a set of stainless cluster plates if you need them. I had made extras out of the material I had when I built mine. they are drilled.
Wow are you serious? Do you mean free by "if you need them"? or How much?
 
I was cleaning out my garage and found them. If you want them, I'll throw them in a priority mail envelope and send them to you. Otherwise, I am taking a bunch of this scrap metal to the junk yard. email me your address if you want them.
 
gyroparts said:
I was cleaning out my garage and found them. If you want them, I'll throw them in a priority mail envelope and send them to you. Otherwise, I am taking a bunch of this scrap metal to the junk yard. email me your address if you want them.
ok thanks so much, GOD I LOVE THIS WEBSITE SO MANY GENEROUS PEOPLE! I will pm you right now
 
heres some more pics of the plates:

[RotaryForum.com] - Starting My Bee finally!
 
Ok, I bought my drill press yesterday, it is a Craftsman 10" with laser track. It works GREAT! I did some research before I started drilling the keel and my tip for that one is once you have it all plotted out drill one true hole and use the cluster plate as a trace for the remaining holes. Put bolts in the holes as you drill so to keep the plate aligned and it will fit for sure.

[RotaryForum.com] - Starting My Bee finally!

[RotaryForum.com] - Starting My Bee finally!
 
Here is the drill press. It is great and it is only 99.00! great buy and a press is a MUST!!!

[RotaryForum.com] - Starting My Bee finally!


[RotaryForum.com] - Starting My Bee finally!


[RotaryForum.com] - Starting My Bee finally!


[RotaryForum.com] - Starting My Bee finally!
 
Ok, well I did what doug Riley told me and guess what...IT TURNED OUT GREAT! I got the keel finished today and bolted the cluster plates(stainless):D on, and it was great!, The only problem was the bolts werent threaded far enough down and the nut stopped short about 3 washers. I am just replacing them with more washers until I make my next order. Tip: BUY A DRILL PRESS, I know thats twice, but u NEED ONE!:D
O and thanks everyone that helped me with that drilling problem.

[RotaryForum.com] - Starting My Bee finally!
 
krew said:
Here is the drill press. It is great and it is only 99.00! great buy and a press is a MUST!!!

Nice drill press,look better rotated..:)
whats the motor size and travel?
 

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Jason,

Just a quick tip: Don't use the AN locknuts for this kind of test-assembly work; just use plain non-locking nuts from the hardware store. The AN locknuts are 'wear parts', and only designed to be installed/removed a limited number of times before they must be replaced.

Save those AN locknuts for when you are in the air, don't bother with them in the shop.
 
Wow Jason,

That looks a lot better. Also Legendre gave you some good advice. You will probably put things together and take things apart MANY times during your build, so you can just save the expensive AN hardware for the final assembly.
 
I keep a supply of AN castle nuts around for temporary assembly work. I try not to use my "real" bolts for these temporary set-ups, either. Old cast-offs work fine, and your real bolts stay nice and pretty.

AN3 bolts are a pain to get the right length because their threads are so short (only 3/8"). It's difficult to avoid stacking washers for the correct fit. They also have a slight bulge in the shank right above threads that can be a little over nominal diameter. Grrr.

AN4's are easier to deal with and are the standard for airframe assembly on all small gyros... EXCEPT the 'Bee series....
 
legendre said:
Jason,

Just a quick tip: Don't use the AN locknuts for this kind of test-assembly work; just use plain non-locking nuts from the hardware store. The AN locknuts are 'wear parts', and only designed to be installed/removed a limited number of times before they must be replaced.

Save those AN locknuts for when you are in the air, don't bother with them in the shop.
Ok, I saw the thread about that earlier, I will go get some frome, ace, btw where can I get bolts that are threaded far enough down?
 
Doug Riley said:
I keep a supply of AN castle nuts around for temporary assembly work. I try not to use my "real" bolts for these temporary set-ups, either. Old cast-offs work fine, and your real bolts stay nice and pretty.

AN3 bolts are a pain to get the right length because their threads are so short (only 3/8"). It's difficult to avoid stacking washers for the correct fit. They also have a slight bulge in the shank right above threads that can be a little over nominal diameter. Grrr.

AN4's are easier to deal with and are the standard for airframe assembly on all small gyros... EXCEPT the 'Bee series....
well, is the 3 washers on each side safe? Bill suggested I get bolts that are smaller.
 
You can't get longer threads; 3/8 is the standard. It's OK; I was just pointing out one of those little finicky things you have to deal with.

Three washers is OK. Put one under the head and two under the nut (or get the next size shorter -- your choice).
 
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