SH PSRU Pulley removal

Sorry guys. I replaced the worn prop jack shaft with one machined locally out of aircraft alloy steel. I have completed replacement of all bearings and belts in the PSRU and pre-rotator systems. Lubed the PR drive shaft, and am now waiting for Sport Copter mast, hub, rotor and trim system to arrive. I have ordered upgraded fuel pumps and filters, with new 5/16 fuel lines for now in preparation for later turbo. Pressure checked the fuel tank, bore scoped the engine. I can still see cylinder cross hatch marks and all valves look "like new". New plugs of course - cheap compared to buying plugs for certificated aircraft engines.

I was unable to enlarge the eccentric hole, but got eccentric installed and am "just able" to turn the prop belt adjustment bolt with a new long handled wrench. I studied up on belt adjustment from belt factory documentation and am waiting for proper tension measurement tools to arrive this week. Then will be done with everything but the new rotors and trim system.
 
CLS447;n1128434 said:
Rob, at this point, why not remove the whole backing plate ? What is it.... a starter & 6 bolts to remove ?
This could make the restoration job easier & maybe use shorter HS bolts ?

Can anyone confirm......SH offered no anodizing ? All blue parts are RAF ?

BTW... where is your coolant temp sensor ?

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Chris, I did remove and inspect the PSRU backing plate. Looked fine. SH provided blue anodized parts. RAF will anodize in your choice of selected colors, but expect a delivery delay. I am coolant sensor clueless. I have not delved into the engine yet, other than bore scope and compression checks which were fine.
 
Morning Dunc......I saw in your other thread that you removed it,,,,,That's why I quoted my old post.

Now you can get those bolts out. Could they replaced with shorter bolts ?
 
Chris, I got the horseshoe bolts out prior to plate removal. Simply takes time while slowly moving the horseshoe away from plate. Shorter bolts could certainly be used, as the current ones are tapped into horseshoe for their full thread length. However removing the horseshoe is not needed unless removing the prop jack shaft, which is not needed unless the shaft has been damaged by neglecting the bearings, which had been done by the previous owner operators. I am good now.
 
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