Rudder and pedal setup

Dirtydog

Best seat in the house!
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I have been working on my cables for the pedals and rudder. Tonight I keep messing around with the pedals until I had a lot more than I started with. I moved the Hiem rod to the out side of the rudder control horn and got twice as much travel. I left the spring on the bolt by itself. As you can see the rudder cables have their own place to hookup. :yo::whoo:

I put adjuster on both ends of the cable to be able to remove any unwanted slack in the cable. I also tucked the cable along the frame with hose clamps and fuel hose to hold the cable tight............
 

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Yo Dog,

Looks nice.

Noticed that you have the pedal bracket reversed from the usual configuration.
Not a problem, just different. Do you let your heels rest on the bracket?

Of possible interest...
The ends of the rudder cables aren't fastened yet, but the obvious places are "forward" of a line through the pivot bolt. This makes a "V" like at the top of my quick sketch (the black lines represent the relation of the holes in the brackets at each end, the red lines are the cables). Normally the rudder bracket has the holes "in-line" like the bottom of the sketch. Your arrangement allows slack in the cables when not centered. In the original design this was not a problem as the slack cable could just droop, but yours are enclosed.
 

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What is the goal ? More turning radius ?
 
The Goal

The Goal

RockyMeLad : Well I am 5'9" and when I first sat down my foot was flipped back like my toes were trying to touch my ankles. Well not to nice after 3 minutes. So I went to work trying to gain more leg room.

I cut some strips of 3" angle to move the pedals away from me. and I found out that the back of my heal would rest on the bars so I am not holding my foot up now!

On the rudder bracket i did drill 3 sets of holes to move the cables to and also I did put adjuster on the cable lines to help with this also. I will be adding a bolt through the bracket shown below.

CLS447 : That is the goal to have better rudder control. Big the swing the move wash moves across the rudder!:cool:
 

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QUESTION : Do you still have to cross cable?

I know it said something about it in the plans.
 
If you fasten the ends of the cables below the pivot point of the pedals. . .
yes.
 
RockyMeLad :
down here in lakeland, fl today and thought I would check in. Not quit sure what you mean!:confused:
 
If the cables are fastened above the pivot/hinge of the pedal, the cable is pulled forward when that pedal is pushed forward.

You want the rudder to swing left when you push on the left pedal.

If the cables are fastened below the pivot/hinge of the pedal, the cable on that pedal is pushed back or slacked when that pedal is pushed forward. Thus the cross-bar forces one pedal back when the other is pushed forward. In the original, the cable connection was below the pivot/hinge, so the cables had to be crossed. When the left pedal was pushed forward, the "bottom" of that pedal pushed back on a cross-bar pivoted in the middle. The other side of the cross-bar of course went forward pushing the "bottom" of the right pedal forward and the right pedal back. The cable from the left side of the rudder was then pulled forward being attached to the "bottom" of the right pedal (the cross-over thing).
 
RockyMeLad :
I ran mine in B-cable al the way back so I did not have the worry about the cables coming loss or flopping. Just looks better to me also!
But I thought that was what you were talking about!

Time to go :party::party::party::party::party: Leaving out at 12 today!
 
GO HAVE SOME GOOD CLEAN FUN !

Make sure you rent a scooter at every stop so you can get the most out of your island time! Cheaper,less gas, and you can park right up at the bar !

Make sure you get a YAMAHA !
 
Back to work

Back to work

RockyMeLad : Had a great time thanks!

CLS447 : Wife is a party pooper, she might have a drink or 2 but that is it.
when we got married she had 5 Marg. on the ship and pass out on me on our wedding night. Bad for me!
 
Ok

Ok

HELP!

Driving on the grass SUCKS I guess my springs are not heavy enough. I turn the rudder pedals and the bird went down it's own little path. Not the way I wanted to go.

Does anyone know what size springs you should have? :phone::Cry:
 
Does anyone know what size springs you should have?

First off you have to understand why the springs are there. If there was no cross wind a direct linkage between the rudder pedals and front tire would work great.

When you land with a cross wind you use the rudder to keep the nose straight on landing. So what ever rudder deflection you have in your nose wheel points the same way. That's OK when you first touch down. But when your nose wheel touches and it's not straight the gyro will dart in that direction and cause a possible tip over.

Now if you could only remember every time BEFORE your nose wheel touches down to straighten out the rudder pedals there would be no problem. But alas us pilots usually forget that simple little item.

So instead of a hard link, springs are installed instead. That way the nose wheel is allowed to caster straight when the nose wheel touches down and the rudder pedals are not straight.

How much spring tension is needed depends a lot on the type of terrain and the weight that is on your nose wheel. You could add heavier springs to compensate for the grass but then you might notice the gyro will be a little more skittish on a paved runway when landing.

Rather than change the springs you can add a cable. Add a cable inside/alongside your spring. You want the spring to allow your nose wheel to turn maybe 15 degrees. After that point the slack in the cable will be tight and you will have direct control of the nose wheel.

You will have some lead lag when on the grass but after getting used to it you learn to compensate for it.

If you can get a look at an earlier Air Command they had a nice adjustable set up for the spring tension.
 
Chuck Roberg :
Thanks for that, I am not sure I have a spring that is heavy enough but I think that I will be taking off the grass more than the concrete. So I might try the cable if every thing else fails.

Would like to hear from a few others also.....
 
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Well Chris we have been grappling with the problem with our rudder pedal set-up. It is going to take a lot of experimentation to try and sort out the best way to go but we will sort it out. Might get some helpful input if we manage to get it down to Wauchula next week which is what we hope to do.

Long way to go and lots to do. wiring loom is now in. Could not believe the amount of wiring required for a Quad Guage EGT/CHT, RPM/Rotor RPM, and Voltage Gage, Prerotator solenoid.

Throttle mounted and cables on. Now will try fuel hoses pump and fuel lines.

New Warp went on today.
 
That's funny ! (about the wires)
 
Got some more cable coming to fix my problem! I got it on the drawing board now..... Big Mess up on my part. Live and learn:noidea:
 
Looks like we have some work to do to get ours right as well.

Still that is why Bensen days will be so valuable. Be able to check out the various ways people have tackled the problem.
 
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