Removing Alternator Pulley from EJ22

Gary_in_Orygun

Ex-RAF 2000 Driver
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Oct 30, 2003
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Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
As much pressure as that press put on that tensioner, I wonder what that C-Clamp must have looked like.

Paul, I wouldn't want to run without the dust covers, just for the sake of preventing some loose part falling into that spinning belt. I guess I shouldn't be so concerned about sealing up the seam I made though when I cut the cover in half. I also had to cut off most of the flange that goes under the pulley in order to get the thing on.
 

Harry_S.

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Gary, you must have used a weak press or you have a bad tensioner. Rust maybe?!

I don't know how many tensioners this mechanic has worked on over the years but I watched him and once he picked up the clamp and the tensioner, he had it pinned in less than a minute I would say.

I don't know how C clamps are graduated, but the one he used looked to have about an 8 in. throat. And I can't imagine anything on an auto engine causing that big a clamp to fail?!

I was just passing on a tip that you or anyone else could use in the future. A C- Clamp can do the job on that tensioner.


Cheers :)
 

rgraffeo

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Gonzales, Louisiana
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I used a bench vise to compress the tensioniser. There is a hole to place a small allen wrench to keep it compressed while you install it. Pull the pin & the plunger takes the slack out of the belt.
 

Aussie_Paul

A reforming stirrer!!!!!
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The important thing is to gently "squeeze" the tensioner to fully in, otherwise the internals can be damaged. If I remember correctly in the notes supplied by RAF said to use a vice and squeeze gently until the holes for the holding pin lined up.

Aussie Paul. :)
 

Harry_S.

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A big vise or a big C-Clamp...your choice. I don't have that big a vise but do have the C-Clamp. :)


Cheers :)
 

Gary_in_Orygun

Ex-RAF 2000 Driver
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Oct 30, 2003
Messages
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Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
I went flying yesterday. Ah-h-h-h-h-h...back in the saddle again. Took a nice leisurely jaunt over the saturated countryside, all the while keeping on the lookout for anything to go wrong. Upon landing everything looked still attached and tight, with no leaking fluids anywhere. That is a good thing.

One thing I might attempt one of these days is to see if I can get the blades smoothed out. When I had my RAF blades and had them dynamically tracked, (including a .015 off-center offset), the rotorhead did not orbit at all. Ever since I put these new Sport Rotor blades on my rotorhead orbits about 1/4".

I wish I had access to one of those dynamic balancers again.
 

Kolibri

FW and Gyros
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removing "that" bolt
I've replaced timing belts before, but had trepidation about breaking free "that" bolt. I tried a trick learned elsewhere of positioning the wrench/breaker bar so that it won't move, and then bipping the starter. (photo below) I first removed the spark plugs, to reduce load on the starter.

Worked . . . like . . . a . . . charm! One bip, and it was free. In fact, I had the bolt and pulley out in less time than it took to remove the center cover. (I don't know if such would have saved Gary-in-Oregon's bacon years ago; sounds like his mechanic overtorqued it.)

If you don't want to try that, use crankshaft pulley wrench 499977000 to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.


 
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