Removing Alternator Pulley from EJ22

Gary_in_Orygun

Ex-RAF 2000 Driver
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
1,003
Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
I don't know if this has ever been addressed. We are supposed to be able to move the engine back about an inch on those long bolts we installed, so we can get to the timing belt.

I want to change the water pump on my machine since I had some leaks happening in that area. Also, seems like a good thing since this pump is the one that came from the factory...who knows where it has been?

I loosened the front engine mount nuts and moved the engine back. I was able to get a 22mm socket wrench on the pulley bolt. But I was not able to loosen the bolt. I had to hold the prop while I turned on the wrench. Not even a budge. I know I need an extension for my wrench to get more torque. I'm not sure my socket will handle it. I'm not sure the prop blades will handle it either.

But I'm wondering if that pulley bolt has the standard counter-clockwise-to-loosen thread. Anyone else able to get that pulley off with just a standard socket wrench? Subaru has a special wrench, which I doubt would even fit in our tight quarters.
 
Last edited:

Steve Osborne

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
402
Location
Maryland
Aircraft
RAF2000 GTX SE FI 2.5L
Gary, I have had mine off several times with a standard socket. I use a strap wrench to hold the lower pulley. Counter clockwise to loosen.
 

Gary_in_Orygun

Ex-RAF 2000 Driver
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
1,003
Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
A strap wrench? Is that what you call the wrench used to loosen an oil filter? I don't have one big enough to fit over the pulley. The mechanic that put my pulley on did it on a engine stand and I think he used an air hammer to tighten it.:noidea:
 

Steve Osborne

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
402
Location
Maryland
Aircraft
RAF2000 GTX SE FI 2.5L
Similar, but it has a nylon strap, you can use a chain wrench also but if you do, rap the pulley 5 or 6 times with duct tape, to prevent any damage. Then go shoot your mechanic, the tightening torque on that bolt is 69-76 ft-lb.
 

Gary_in_Orygun

Ex-RAF 2000 Driver
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
1,003
Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
Thanks for the links. But after describing to you the amount of torque I am needing to get this bolt to budge, I doubt those rubber wrenches would hold up. I'm needing to extend my socket wrench (by putting a pipe on the end) to help me up the torque on that (I hope the socket survives). I need something similar (long and strong) to put a counter torque on the pulley.

Maybe I need to look into that chain wrench you were talking about.
 

Harry_S.

Gold Supporter
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
5,649
Location
Ocala, Florida
Aircraft
RAF2000
Total Flight Time
2000+ hrs.
Gary;

Go to your nearest good hardware or plumbing supply and ask to see a plumbers strap wrench.

It has a heavy duty handle with a heavy duty canvas strap. This will hold that pulley

Just make sure the strap is at least 18-20" long. Enough to encircle the pulley.

My wrench was mfg. by the Ridge Tool co.


Cheers :)
 

rgraffeo

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2003
Messages
914
Location
Gonzales, Louisiana
Aircraft
RAF 2000 GTX/SE
Total Flight Time
~500
Gary,
I put the end of a socket wrench handle in one of the holes for the lower engine sprocket to stop the crankshaft from moving while I broke the bolt loose. There are two holes in the steady bearing plate that line up with the six holes for the lower engine sprocket.

I used a 1/2" drive socket wrench with a cheater pipe to loosen the nut.
 

Gary_in_Orygun

Ex-RAF 2000 Driver
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
1,003
Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
Tried everything... First I suspended the engine from the ceiling and got an impact wrench on that stubborn bolt. It didn't budge.

I put the engine back on the mounts and did as suggested here, and stuck a couple handles into the holes of the lower drive belt sprocket. I had a 17" long, 1/2" drive handle with a 3' pipe hanging off it. I used the impact socket since it was the strongest thing I had. After almost standing on the pipe, the socket started to spin on the head of the bolt. It ain't coming off.

Now I'm trying to figure out what to do next. One idea is to get that dust cover off somehow. If I destroy it, I am thinking of finding another one and cutting it in half like someone else suggested.

All this just because of a stuck bolt. This is not my best day. But I have to be able to get into that area.:noidea:
 

Steve Osborne

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
402
Location
Maryland
Aircraft
RAF2000 GTX SE FI 2.5L
Gary, it sounds like when your mechanic install the bolt using a impact, he may have stripped the treads. Be careful, using a high toque impact, it creates a hammering effect which can damage the crank pins and journals. It is just like taking a large hammer and hitting the crank. This is why soob wants you to use a there pulley holding tool and a toque wrench to tighten the bolt.

You have a big problem on your hands and may be best to just replace the motor. If you do get the pulley off the chances of the saving the treads inside the crank are slim. But if you are set on keeping this one then the best thing you can do is like you said, cut the cover and work around the pulley then hope you never need to replace the oil pump.
 

Harry_S.

Gold Supporter
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
5,649
Location
Ocala, Florida
Aircraft
RAF2000
Total Flight Time
2000+ hrs.
WOW...I can't imagine that nut being that stubborn. How long has it been static?

If it would have been me, I would have squirted that bugger with anti-seize oil for a couple days and then tried it.

If nothing else, go back to that mechanic and tell him to remove the nut?!


Cheers :)
 

Steve Osborne

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
402
Location
Maryland
Aircraft
RAF2000 GTX SE FI 2.5L
Look at the bright side Gary. This would be the perfect time to step up to the EJ 2.5 :D
 

Gary_in_Orygun

Ex-RAF 2000 Driver
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
1,003
Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
Harry, the bolt was put on in 2002 and I've been running with it ever since. It isn't going anywhere.

I haven't talked to the mechanic since. I don't even know if I can find his number. I'm not happy with this situation. Building and maintenance were just a necessary evil to get in the air. I'd rather be flying.

Steve, tempting, but too much work/effort/$$ for right now.
 
Last edited:

reelmule

Reelmule
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Messages
388
Location
Cave Creek, AZ
Aircraft
Beech Baron C55; Piper PA 18 Super Cub; RAF 2000 gyroplane
Total Flight Time
5,000+ hrs;
Gary,
Is heating with mepps an option?
 

Gary_in_Orygun

Ex-RAF 2000 Driver
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
1,003
Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
What you talkin' 'bout reemule? (MEPPS?) I don't see how I could sufficiently heat the crank that the bolt sits in. But that did get me to trying to remember if the mechanic put red locktight on there. Ain't no way it is coming off unless it is drilled out somehow. I'm not attempting that. I'm going to change the timing belt and the water pump and hope that the rest of the stuff in that area lasts as long as I plan on running this engine.
 

Harry_S.

Gold Supporter
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
5,649
Location
Ocala, Florida
Aircraft
RAF2000
Total Flight Time
2000+ hrs.
I'm going to change the timing belt and the water pump and hope that the rest of the stuff in that area lasts as long as I plan on running this engine.


Gary, how's it going on this change out?! Anything new?!


Cheers :)
 

Gary_in_Orygun

Ex-RAF 2000 Driver
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
1,003
Location
Hillsboro, Oregon
Well, after some additional trials and tribulations, the machine is coming back together.

So, I got the water system all put back together and started putting everything back on that I took off and tightened it all up.

I took Friday off to work on the machine and spent most of Saturday at the airport too.

I cut and broke the dust cover off since I never could get the crank pulley off. The directions for taking off the timing belt were pretty straight forward. I got the new water pump on pretty easy and drilling and taping for the bypass fitting wasn't too difficult.

But when I went to put the new belt on, I found out the Subaru parts guy gave me the wrong one. I had to take an early lunch and drive back to town to swap that out.

When I went to put on the new belt, I learned that I needed to have a press to compress and pin the belt tightener. (I don't have such an animal.) I lucked out that the mechanic on the field was in and had a press.

I finally got the belt back on, and then proceeded to install the new dust cover that I had to cut in half. I need to seal up the seam better yet.

As I drove home Friday I kept thinking that I forgot to tighten up the bolt on the belt tightener pulley. I didn't want to have to pull the engine back forward and pull the covers totally off again.

The next day I was able to take off just the outside cover and loosen the center piece, and then reach a wrench in there to tighten up that bolt. Close call averted.

Then I spent a while with a bag of tie-wraps, securing everything I could.

I still need to change the spark plugs and give it a real good look over before firing it back up. But I'm hopeful that the rest will go quickly.

I hear we are supposed to get a break from the rain here shortly. Our temps are coming up too. Can't wait to get back in the air.
 

Aussie_Paul

A reforming stirrer!!!!!
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
4,441
Location
Ballarat Australia
Aircraft
None at the moment.
Total Flight Time
Since 1982 Gyro 5000+ mostly instructing, and approx. 200 fixed wing in the late 1960s.
I finally got the belt back on, and then proceeded to install the new dust cover that I had to cut in half. I need to seal up the seam better yet.
Gary, a number of people around the world don't use the covers. I have cut a set in half to save getting at and removing "that" bolt.

Aussie Paul. :)
 

Harry_S.

Gold Supporter
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
5,649
Location
Ocala, Florida
Aircraft
RAF2000
Total Flight Time
2000+ hrs.
When I went to put on the new belt, I learned that I needed to have a press to compress and pin the belt tightener. (I don't have such an animal.) I lucked out that the mechanic on the field was in and had a press.


A while back I posted that I had a soob mechanic change out the front end of my soob.

He brought most of what he would need to do the job, including the "press" to re-tension the tensioner. you know what he used to reset the tensioner...get ready for this...A BIG C- CLAMP.

He said he uses the clamp at the dealers garage as it's easier, faster and more precise than using a press. I can't argue that point.


Cheers :)
 
Top