While you're checking the non-radiused parts of the hub-bar, do the same on the big reduction plate. I had mine crack as did many others over the years. I have some dye-penetrant in my hangar that I used when I had the RAF rotors and bar. I'll get the brand name and post it later. But like someone said, from beginning of crack to breakage can be a short time. Your crack may start a day after you check it.
I believe RAF has put a 500 hour life-limit on their bars and blades, which is unheard of in the gyro industry. A poor design is a poor design as was so clearly described here. I wouldn't see how different blades would have anything to do with it. Even if they shook like crazy (wait a minute...a lot of RAF blades do anyway) a hub-bar should be designed to withstand almost anything. Non-radiused turns and cross-cuts as Doug and Victor described are just plain ignorant design work. All they would have had to do was have a first-year engineering student at the bottom of his class that skipped classes half the time at the University of Saskatchewan or wherever take a look at it and go "Yikes!"
If you put Michelin tires on your car and a wheel falls off, I don't think you can blame the tires. What are you going to say if you have RAF blades and bar and Paul was flying different blades? "Oh, he was flying non-RAF blades, so I don't have to worry about it." I don't think that would be a good idea. It has been clearly pointed out in detail here that the RAF hub-bar is poorly designed, even if they're holding RAF blades. This poor design has been pointed out before on Norm's Forum, many years ago.