QB2 Build Progress


Platinum Member
Brian, my 503 can sit all winter & it will start on the 3rd pull....But I gotta do that standing up. I also use my ankle to brace the machine while I struggle to pull that rope. Good thing I don't bruise easily. Then I gotta hold her back while she warms up. Sometimes I'll shut her down & get my helmet & radio on but I can do that with her running. Wouldn't it be really cool to get in & buckle up , lift the visor on your heli helmet, & clearly yell out to the crowd that has assembled.....CLEAR !!! Then turn the key !

Did you not know that you were getting an electric starter. What brand is that & how much do you want for it?

Hey.....ultralight....254lbs , 5 gallons of gas, whats that 3rd thing again ????? If you bust one , you might as well bust em all. Do you know how many years I flew my FAT ultralight ?

I wanted an ultralight, but I needed all those SAFETY features the the Government would deny us folks. Pilot Lives matter !

I had the Red seat cover to prevent fatigue, Brakes to stop the machine, Prerotator to save my limbs & digits. Rotor brake....I ain't got the time for them things to stop on their own ! Then I got real crazy & got some instruments too ! But who needs them ? They are just a distraction like the radio!!!! You need to be looking for those guys in those fast planes that always say.."You're hard to see !"

SELF PRESERVATION always come first, Right ?

Get al least one good strobe light....they don't weigh much.

I'm glad that you don't have to learn to fly it with just a short flight & a pat on the back......but I always respected that little machine. People think motorcycles are dangerous!

Over the years, we lost alot of good people to this hobby. I might be next, only God knows !

Flying my Single Seat gyro is about the most fun I can have with my clothes on(as they say) Thats why I am still doing it. For me it's seasonal too. Imagine having a heated cabin! I don't understand people that have no interest in them. That's why I am building a 2 place. So I can try to kill all my friends or maybe makes some new ones !

But Brian, It's hard to beat a light machine for fun.....very forgiving ! Every time I land my Fat ultralight, I think "Who want's to land with alot of forward speed ?"


Staff member
Brian Jackson;n1119090 said:
Quick question for the group: If I am removing the electric start from the new 503, would it have sufficient trade-value for a recoil pull-start system? I would imagine the elec starter might be worth more, but a trade for a like-new recoil unit/system would be OK.

The GPL starters like what you have run about $550 for the basic kit:

I would imagine you could sell it for half that, or I'm sure someone would be willing to do a straight up trade.
Make sure you get all of the parts if you trade.

A new pull starter assembly is almost $400.

You may be able to find what you need on eBay. The snowmobile 447/532/503 is the same basic engine and the recoil assemblies should be the same, but I don't know for certain.

Brian Jackson

Platinum Member
No Title

Trying the icon for photo uploads. Let's see if this works better.

Food for thought. I'll elaborate in a later thread, only have a minute to post. I did add a photo of the Y-pipe you asked about and those sure look like the "bungs" you described.

Thanks for the links and heads up on relative value. Might have to contact Rotax Rick and see if he'll trade the elec start system for a recoil system. I would like to add an intake silencer, so maybe we can work out a fair trade.

I got the material this morning from Metal Supermarkets. I liked that the owner came in on a Saturday to let me pick my own stock. He didn't have the certs at the moment but is emailing them to me on Monday. I did not purchase the 1/8" wall 2X2 tubing because none of the stock had mill printing on the tubes. The owner is ordering a new batch with specs and I will pick them up when they arrive. Sorry, but I'm doing this by the book.

More later. Thanks.



Brian Jackson

Platinum Member
I've heard that Scotch Brite finishing looks nice. At this stage I'm only taking the surface down to the low point of the scratches. The final finish will be a 2-stage process, starting with a Bright-dip Copper Anodizing (think shiny penny), followed by a wrinkle-textured powder coat (deep blue) over the major surfaces. The raw 1/8" and 3/16" edges of all plates and angles are rouge-buffed to mirror smoothness just prior to the bright copper anodizing, and are tape masked before the powdercoat application. The end result should be quite visually stunning with the mirror copper accented edges.

Anodizing increases the surface hardness of the very outer layer of the material, so that's why I'm taking the extra steps to remove any scratches or dings.