Portable blade hoist for pickup trucks?

All_In

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Hoping someone here must have seen any for sale or designed a portable boom lift hoist to attach rotor blades.

The club needs a portable boom hoist to attach rotor blades at fly-ins and we need it to reattach the ARGON blades after we trailer her to the test area airport. Will fly her back and not take them off again except for inspections at the hangar where we have a permanent hoist to do hang tests.

Requirements:
  1. Want to slide it into the sideboard holes in the back of most pickup truck beds for the base/support.
  2. Has a boom at a 90-degree angle that will reach the middle of a wide two-place.
I bought a hoist, today, like this at Harbor Freight for it. Except for my box shows a keychain remote and not the one in this picture. https://www.harborfreight.com/zxr-2...e-rope-and-wireless-remote-control-56258.html
I have 20-foot heavy-duty jumper cables that I'm donating to the cause.
 

Gyro28866

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I am not sure the Stake Pockets will work!
The vertical support is not the issue, The bed rail can handle it.
The Horizontal moment arm of at least six feet'ish will roll the stake pocket and side of the bed out causing a great deal of damage to the truck bed.
I have seen some Good Ole Boys put a large flag on a 8' pole in a stake pocket and destroy the side of the beds from the wind loads just driving around town at less than 45 mph.
Now, triangulated between 4 stake pockets would probably provide enough support to do the job.
regardless, you will need to get the boom height to 12-14 feet elevation to accomplish this.
 

All_In

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Hi Bro!!!
That is exactly the advice I was needing.
Bummer, using all four the boom itself becomes too heavy and bulky to transport and store.
OK, what about making a heavy flat plate the boom is mounted to that runs all the way to the ground holding it up by itself.
Then drive one car or truck front tires on the base, using its weight to hold the boom as if its base plate was screwed into a shop floor?
 

bugflyer

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Use the stake pocket opposite the vertical to wire-brace the bending load. Just keep the load approximately in line with the wire brace. And use the pockets closest to the cab for extra 90 degree support from the bed front.

smiles,
Charles
 

All_In

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When we went to the hanger Dave, Tom, and I designed what Charles described and what Bobby is using.
I should have taken pictures.
We had a Camper mount that is made to slide into the pocket. Sliding into the pocket next to the cab exactly as Charles described.
There is a designed bolt hole in the pocket so drilled a hole in the Camper mount and will bolt it to the bed.
Mounting the hoist on the bent-down portion of the Camper Mount leaves the flat top available to mount the boom pole.
Then we selected to use ratching tie-down straps for the load brace lines.
The last thing I did just before 5 PM was to buy a 10-foot by 1.25" wide poll.
Welding a bracket on the top of the Camper mount and drill a hole through it and the poll and bolt it together to create a hinge.
Like Bobby's!
 

GyrOZprey

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Greg Tillery had a great rotor hoist design with electric or manual winch that he assembled on the hitch of this truck! I will have to go back into my pics at Anahuac a few years ago to find it!
 

Sv.grainne

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My lift was based on weight of Razorblades,. Will update when I get ready for AW inspection. Saw no need for electric lift given the overall weight of the rotor blades.
 

giro5

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Lets see just quickly thinking about this problem. Stake pockets on a pickup bed are too shallow but you could use say a 2 in ID pipe welded to a flat plate. The plate bolts to the bed and the pipe stick up a couple of inches above the top of the bed and is attached to the bed with U bolts around the pipe and thru the sides of the bed. Now you slip in this 2 inch pipe a tall upright pipe say 10 feet long. So you have a pretty stable base but not enough to handle say 70 lb assembled blades on say an 8 ft arm. So instead of an 8 ft arm you use a 16 ft cross arm pivoted in the middle attached to the top of the upright pipe (one that slips inside the 2 in ID base. This cross arm has a block and tackle (like the ones used for a deer hoist by hunters) at each end. One end picks up the blades and the other end picks up a weight equal to the weight of the blades at the same time. So now for the most part you do not have a lot of bending force on the tall upright pipe that has been slipped into the base pipe and has the cross arm on top. And you should be able to spin the blades, upright pipe, and other weight around to the gyro and install the blades. This idea could be adapted to the receiver hitch with the tall upright braced to each side pocket (it would need to turn in the braces) and to the side pockets and bed of a trailer. And one last thing the cross arm would probably need to be a simple triangle truss design to keep from bending. Just my 2 cents
 
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