New RAF 2000 build

Got the rotor tach sensor, strobes/position lights mounted yesterday. Today I worked on the doors and windshield. RAF has secured the plastic coating on the lexan with masking tape and after sitting on there for decades it was like it was baked on. Took 6 hours of rubbing and scraping with goo gone, a scraper and fingernails to get it all off. Oh well there’s worse things I could be doing than sitting by the pool working on a gyro. Finally all cleaned up and latches mounted. Still looking for a locking quarter turn latch or handle with handles on both the outside and inside. What have y’all used for the main handle? I don’t like the original RAF set up.
 
Decided to go with a standard locking T handle. Looks and works great. Also finishing up the windshield and is now temporarily in place.
 

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Looking good. Thanks for the updates.
 
I have that same fiberglass seatback Mike and found the way it leans forward at the top makes it quite uncomfortable. Ended up cutting out a section from halfway up to the top and used a piece of aluminium to recess that section so it ends up pretty much straight from top to bottom. Did the same on pilot and passenger side.
 
I have that same fiberglass seatback Mike and found the way it leans forward at the top makes it quite uncomfortable. Ended up cutting out a section from halfway up to the top and used a piece of aluminium to recess that section so it ends up pretty much straight from top to bottom. Did the same on pilot and passenger side.
Hi Grevis long time to talk. Thanks for the thought. haven’t gotten the padding for the seat back yet as it didn’t come with the gyro. I’m planning on changing seat covers and having some custom ones made because the ones I have are grey (originally grey gyro). I’ll try out some different padding and see what I can do without having to go to that extreme, but I appreciate the heads up.
 
Decided to rivet the windscreen in place this weekend. Looks good. One step closer.
 

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Decided to rivet the windscreen in place this weekend. Looks good. One step closer.
Hi Mike, can I ask what the windscreen is made from and how much clearance you allowed with the riveting process to prevent cracking due to the pullup of the rivets? My ELA has stainless bolts with nyloc nuts securing it so that you can "feel" the tension as it is applied.

Regards......Chook.
 
Hi Mike, can I ask what the windscreen is made from and how much clearance you allowed with the riveting process to prevent cracking due to the pullup of the rivets? My ELA has stainless bolts with nyloc nuts securing it so that you can "feel" the tension as it is applied.

Regards......Chook.
Hi Chook. It’s made out of a fairly flexible lexan material. I see your point about cracking. I haven’t heard of any problems with this model having that problem and no product notices have been put out. I just followed the construction manual with the rivets. I actually thought about using small bolts with nyloc nuts for easy removal but decided to just follow the plan. If I do end up with some spider cracking down the road I’ll replace it and use some bonding glue instead of rivets.

Mike
 
Hi Chook. It’s made out of a fairly flexible lexan material. I see your point about cracking. I haven’t heard of any problems with this model having that problem and no product notices have been put out. I just followed the construction manual with the rivets. I actually thought about using small bolts with nyloc nuts for easy removal but decided to just follow the plan. If I do end up with some spider cracking down the road I’ll replace it and use some bonding glue instead of rivets.

Mike
Thanks Mike. Did you curve and cut the Lexan yourself or get it as a spare or kit part?
 
Dear Mike,
To avoid stress cracks in drilling plexiglass do this: Take an old drill bit slightly larger than the screw to be used and DULL the cutting tip by spinning a few revs on the concrete floor at a 45 degree angle. Now carefully and slowly drilling the hole the plastic let the hole edge melt slightly. This will produce a stress riser free hole that will not crack to the edge. This tip came from the Helicycle designer BJ Scramm who perished in a photo shoot accident into smooth water.
 
Mike , PS, plexiglass has a different expansion/ contraction rate than the surrounding material. Screws with nylons are a good choice.
Phillip
 
It came with the kit. Previous owner had already drilled the holes. I appreciate all the tips. If I do have to replace it in the future, I’ll either go with bolts or use the new bonding technique put out by RAF. If the holes weren’t already there I probably would have went that route from the start, although I do like the idea of bolts with nyloc nuts.
 
It came with the kit. Previous owner had already drilled the holes. I appreciate all the tips. If I do have to replace it in the future, I’ll either go with bolts or use the new bonding technique put out by RAF. If the holes weren’t already there I probably would have went that route from the start, although I do like the idea of bolts with nyloc nuts.
You can get decorative fender washers with a rubber layer. Holes should be slightly larger than the fastener.
You can wrap the fastener with any thin strip of tape next to the head to form a bushing between the plastic and the bolt. The nylocs are only snugged so the plastic can sort of float on the fasteners with out too much tension on the fastener.
 
Had a great visit today from an EAA Technical Counselor to look over my work so far. He’s not a gyro guy per se but had a few good suggestions. Good visit and good inspection. He himself is building his 2nd airplane and lives 2 miles from me so we are now friends and will be flying buddies. Life is good!
 
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