New RAF 2000 build

I glassed in a 5/8" vinyl tube around the front of the pant and ran wires through that. I mounted the light through a block of plastic with screws into t-nuts. On the other side I added connectors so the pants can be removed by unplugging the wires right there. Sorry my old pictures are blurry.
Thanks so much Twitham for the response. Exactly what I was looking for. I don’t know about glassing but I’m thinking gorilla glue would work. I was actually thinking of going around the upper part of the fairing but I kinda like your idea. Appreciate your input.

Mike
 
Finally my new Sportcopter rotor blades and cheek plates will be delivered tomorrow. Its been 13 months since my original order and 8 months since they had to send me a new set due to damage in shipping in the first set. I’m praying this set arrived fully intact with no damage. Now I just need the panel and I’ll have almost everything I need to complete this project. I was pleasantly surprised by the FAA last week as my aircraft registration arrived in only 1 week! Next is the certification process.

Mike
 
Well my new Sportcopter system arrived intact today! Been a long wait. Thanks to Jim Vanek for helping me get this done! This weekend the cheek plates and rotor head will be mounted.
 

Attachments

  • New RAF 2000 build
    FB8EE2BA-F73A-47FC-A816-4010E53F483D.jpeg
    252.5 KB · Views: 10
Installed pneumatic trim air tank, hoses to compressor and control units in cabin. Mounted the air tank on the pilot side strut as no better mount location was found. 2” clamps with 1/4” bolts used to secure tank to strut. Stole an Idea from Dunc and Mounted air control units to aluminum sheet along with SkyFyx unit. Aluminum panel was then mounted to the passenger side rear cabin wall in the same fashion as the .radio/transponder/RDAC mount. The rest of the air trim hoses will be mounted after the rotor head is mounted. I hope you all are enjoying my journey as I weave my way through the unknown. I’ve appreciated all the comments and assistance from the RF community so far.
 

Attachments

  • New RAF 2000 build
    B93CA801-53CF-42A3-B4CF-56BF2FD0238B.jpeg
    208.5 KB · Views: 30
  • New RAF 2000 build
    F7AD74DF-7621-4B8F-A23D-42EB80BF3668.jpeg
    203.4 KB · Views: 30
  • New RAF 2000 build
    D6806FBA-A7BE-464B-9C46-1B60F44D1E43.jpeg
    258.5 KB · Views: 31
Last edited:
Also received the first cut of my panel today. Steve at Aircraft Specialty has been awesome to work with. almost everything fit but a couple things need to be reworked because of the location of my panel mount holes. Hindsight being 20-20, if I were to do it again I would get the panel cut first then decide where to trim out the dash fiberglass for the mounting holes. As it stands, I will need to move a mounting hole to another location due to the iPad mount.
 

Attachments

  • New RAF 2000 build
    E062F991-2876-4CEF-9988-16EA6C01F531.jpeg
    170.3 KB · Views: 24
  • New RAF 2000 build
    58C0F599-31E3-419A-9C9B-7EC5C3E3E613.jpeg
    140 KB · Views: 23
Used the beautiful morning to take a kayak trip with the wife so not much time for gyro work today. I did get the oil pressure sensor mounted and the N number applied. Will be working on mounting the rotor head and cheek plates tomorrow.
 

Attachments

  • New RAF 2000 build
    94982CCF-4C06-49F6-9A73-605393FB4283.jpeg
    161.8 KB · Views: 25
My Bell 47 is N999DW. Niner-niner-niner rolls nicely off the tongue for radio calls.
 
Howdy all! Hope everyone had a safe holiday. I have a hardware question. Putting together the push/pull rods it calls for an up drilled bolt and nylon nuts to secure. Would it be better to replace the regular AN Bolts with the drilled version and use a castle nut and cotter pin? Or doesn’t it really matter. The bottom rods are connected with castle nuts and I will be attaching the connection to the rotor head with them also. It seems like such a critical area should have some safety measures.
Mike
 
IMO, Nyloc nuts are perfectly fine, if they're in a place where you can see them on pre-flight, especially if you use a little "torque seal" to detect any rotation.
 
IMO, Nyloc nuts are perfectly fine, if they're in a place where you can see them on pre-flight, especially if you use a little "torque seal" to detect any rotation.
I used castle nuts and cotter pins on the lower arms but nylocks up on the rotor head.
 
IMO, Nyloc nuts are perfectly fine, if they're in a place where you can see them on pre-flight, especially if you use a little "torque seal" to detect any rotation.
Normally I’d agree Tyger and I do have torque seal for those areas that will need it. Red should stick out well. I’m just thinking I’d like a little more piece of mind on the control rods. I think either way works, especially like you said on a good preflight.
Mike
 
To my thinking, it's sort of like the plastic coolant-bottle cap I saw with a tether on it here (another thread).
If such things are designed and put on properly, they are not going to somehow untwist themselves – multiple rotations – and come off, at least not in the course of one flight.
However, if it makes you feel better, I guess there's no harm in wearing both a belt and suspenders, as it were. ☺️
But even so, I wouldn't ever "fix it and forget it".
 
To my thinking, it's sort of like the plastic coolant-bottle cap I saw with a tether on it here (another thread).
If such things are designed and put on properly, they are not going to somehow untwist themselves – multiple rotations – and come off, at least not in the course of one flight.
However, if it makes you feel better, I guess there's no harm in wearing both a belt and suspenders, as it were. ☺️
But even so, I wouldn't ever "fix it and forget it".
Tyger: Overflow bottle is not a Rotax part so I have no idea if a tether is required. I've already had two experiences with things coming loose and striking the prop (and one rotor)!
 
Slobber bottle on a Tango2 and a part of a trim system on another machine.

I bought the overflow bottle as an afterthought and added it to my 912UL. The cap would do serious damage if it came off.
 
I'm not even sure what a slobber bottle is... is that like a spit cup? ☺️
Why would an overflow bottle be just an afterthought? Where would your coolant go when it gets hot?
The cap on my Rotax overflow bottle has gone exactly nowhere in four plus years of flying through the open air. I have to give it a good hard twist and then spin it four of five rotations to get it off. But I still check it every pre-flight.
 
I'm not even sure what a slobber bottle is... is that like a spit cup? ☺️
Why would an overflow bottle be just an afterthought? Where would your coolant go when it gets hot?
The cap on my Rotax overflow bottle has gone exactly nowhere in four plus years of flying through the open air. I have to give it a good hard twist and then spin it four of five rotations to get it off. But I still check it every pre-flight.
My great-uncle had a slobber bottle when I was very young. Some things just stick with you.
 
Top