If the shim washers are the spacers on either side of the rotor that center the block between the towers, then this applies.
For AG they set spacer thickness in the factory for each rotor head during balancing as the rotor block might need to be slightly off center to be balanced. I think for most rotors both sides are generally equal but sometimes they are not, they can be few thousands in difference in thickness of each spacer which you may not notice by sight or even feel.
If you replaced the spacers with standard ones without measuring the originals, then your rotor head may not be centered on its mass and there is slight vibration as a result. Measure the thickness of the original ones if you still have them. The spacers are not under load so don't really need to be replaced very often, as others have mentioned replace the bushings and teeter bolt regularly. I replace mine every 100 hours or so.
I only found this out because after my first teeter bolt swap out the rotor was vibrating more and turned out that i didn't mark which side the spacers came from (assuming they were the same thickness) so my rotor was slightly out of center. I swapped the spacers around and it went back to normal.
If you do have the originals that you can measure, then get the new ones machined to the same thickness. Then there is 50/50 chance that you will install them on the wrong sides initially (if you don't know which side the originals come off) so if the rotor vibrates increases, then swap sides and it should then be close to your original vibration.
If you don't know what the spacers thickness were originally (you don't have them anymore) then you may have to go through a rotor balance, which is bit of pain. You need to get some new spacers that are maybe 5 thousand thinner than the current ones and 10 one thousand shims (you can make these out of coke cans or buy them). You put the thinner spacers on with 5 shims on each side. Go fly and feel the vibration, then move one shim to the other side, go flying if the vibration is worse than try the extra shim on the opposite side if the vibration improves then you know which side the extra shims need to be, continue moving the shims across until you find the smoothest rotor vibration. Now you know that the spacer thickness for each side is the spacer plus the number of shims. You may then want to get some new spacers machined to the appropriate thickness, so you are not having to thread the teeter bolt through the spacers and Shims each time you take it out, because that is real pain in the arse. Always mark which side the spacer comes from in any future Teet bolt removal (also which side the teeter bolt nut was on as well).