My New Gyro

Minnesota_Mike

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Great Job Dan..!
You make it look easy...and the router is a good tip.
Messy and stinky for sure...but I'm strongly leaning this direction to create a set for my build just because of the light weight obtained.
I'd be interested in your total cost when finished (less time) if you could share that. How much resin and cloth used etc. I'd hate to order too much of what I know are expensive products.

M-M
 

danmcgee

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Oh yea I cut another rotrhead for the other bee we will be building when I get mt shope down to virgina. I have all the materials for the bee just got to cut, drill and bolt together. Oh yea and make another tail what fun.
 

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All_In

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Not sure over 10,000+ logged FW, 260+ ultralights, sailplane, hang-gliders
Hey it's looking good Dan!
It is messy, but very rewarding... Looks like you have done this before?
Thanks for sharing.
 

danmcgee

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PR2032/PH3660 GALLON KIT 01-42150 $127.95 Aeropoxy, WEST SYSTEM 300 RATIO PUMP PACK 01-00318 $10.95, 3M LIGHTWEIGHT BODY FILLER GAL 09-01429 $16.95, FIBERGLASS CLOTH STAND 7781-60
Finnish is F16.
60" Width. Sold by the yard. 7781-60 $8.75

I ordered ten yards of the cloth and have made now 3 sets of tail feathers out of this stuff. I made Liegh DUDU blue tail feathers on his Hornet and the Gyrina Tail feathers on my Honet and now these. I still have enough cloth to do maybee 4 more sets of tail fethers of cloth. only get about 3 yrads and cut with care so there is no waist.

Total cost to me is $243.35

for one set of feathers I would just get the quart kit and 3 yards of cloth
PR2032/PH3660 QUART KIT 01-42135 $47.25
three yards of cloth 26.25
all from aircraft spruce.

I used a plain body filler sqeegy a pencil to ster the stuff and a plastic red cups you would dring bear out of and small cheep paint brishes that I could throw away thats it.
 

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Redbaron

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Hi dan, your bumble bee looks great, are those tuff wheels your using? What size are they and how have the held up over 30 years? I considered using them on my bee build to save weight and eliminate those bends in the gear.
 

Minnesota_Mike

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DAN...THANK YOU...that REALLY helps me a lot.
Seeing what your doing is inspiring since I've never actually "laid up glas" before...the "recipe" and costs list that you've used is immensely helpful.

Thanks again....
M-M
 

danmcgee

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Red the rims are 12 1/2 with tires ythey are 16". They are also the original wheels so they hold up well.
 

danmcgee

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Ok tail feathers have rfully setup and hard and man are they hard. Have to do some light surface sanding then I can connect the H & V stabs together. My 3M putty and piano hinges should so up by then so I can get here done by the end of the month and ready to fly. Will post more pics as this process advances.
 

danmcgee

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Well got a call from aircraft spruce and they are out of the 3M filler. I had to order the dynolite instead. $10 a quart so 2 qts. better get it done.
 

dingbat

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Nice machine

Nice machine

Hi Dan,

Nice machine you have what is the engine size dan nice to see it !
I am glad to see you have a H/S on it dan !

:violin:




Regards G.

LAA BRA. :rapture:
 

RotoPlane

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Dan - I don't mean to sound like a bunghole, but I need to tell you to please start using protection when working with epoxy. If you cannot stand to use gloves, at least use a hand protectant paste, which you can get here: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cm/handprotectants.html

I also hope that room is ventilated. Epoxies can cause you to become sensitized. It is not pleasant. Once you are sensitized you will not be able to even get close to uncured resin for a long time and for some people that means a lifetime. I know of one person and there have been many others that this has happened to. You get an awful rash, red swollen eyes and some have their throat swell almost closed. This can happen by just getting close to the stuff.

No problem if you have a well ventilated work area and if you keep your hands covered and don't touch your bare skin. If you read the epoxy label, warnings and instructions, it will verify what I'm saying. When the Vari-Easies were being built by the hundreds, many were sensitized and had to sell their project, even after Burt's warnings.
 

danmcgee

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Thanks Ed what you could not see in the pics was the fan an open windows. I was very carfull not to get the resin on my hands, my son was wearing gloves and moved each pieace around when needed, he was the one taking the pics as well.

I fully concor with what Ed said to everyone floowin g this thread.

I have also gotten in the dynolite from aircraft spruce so I will be finishing the plane this week.
 

danmcgee

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Ok guys always when working with fiberglass safety is key. Here is the whit painters suit I wear when sanding on glass as well as good ruber gloves and a mask and safety glases. I did all this out in my yard in a breaze to take the dust away from me. I also got the rudder dynalited and ready for sanding. You can aslo see the pics of the H stab and Vstab being glassed together. Tommorw I can quick sand out the H&V stabs and dynalite them and also finish sand the rudder ready for paint.

Oh by the way Mike that is three plys of glass on each side to make the H and V stab connection and then 2 plys of glass running in the oposit direction to tie it all together to cover any seams.
 

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danmcgee

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Ok I got the whole tail dynolited and man was it heavy, Mike be prepared to spend a few hours sanding. I sanded the tail with 80 grit untill I started to see the glass through the dynalite, then moved to 220 grit to smooth it all out to an even surface.

All I have to do is prim the tail and wet sand with 400 grit and paint them up. injoy the pics.

Oh yea I sold my other gyro the gyrina Hornt I built the guy called me and said he only wanted the motor not the gyro so I still have the gyro to finish and still have another motor for that one so my Hornet will get completed and flyable as well too cool. SCORE!!!!
 

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Minnesota_Mike

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You Da' man Dan...
Wow...that's some $hit your in there..!
When you sand, are you using an orbital sander or disc type..?
With that much sanding an orbital would be my guess.
That Dynalite must be the "filler"...yeah that would take a while to sand down to get a smooth finish.
I'm watching every step and turn...Thank you for pointing out ALL the little details...it's very helpful to me.
I think I can handle a glassing project since your taking the mystery out of the various steps...learning more with each of your posts.

Good Job..!

M-M
 

RotoPlane

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Perhaps things have changed, so I'm curious Dan, why you didn't use dry micro (glass bubbles and epoxy, @ approx. 5:1) which is very light and easy to sand, especially since you used epoxy with the glass (if I understood you right). If I recall correctly, Dynalite is a polyester based filler.
 
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