Little Wing Booster Progress....

[WHY]

Hi James

Would like to ask you the same questions that I asked Chuter. what is the maximum AOA you can get with the stick all the way back setting in a 3 point position and what is the minimum AOA in the 3 point position with the stick all the way foward.

Tony

 

[mcbirdman]

Hi Tony, Just delete your post and go to this thread:

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11022&highlight=Wing+Booster+questions. I'll give it a try.... Thanks jtm

 

[richard lidke]

I am Posting these for Rich so he can add details regarding the photos. He is quite excited about the progress and we are almost ready to start looking at engines...... Hope you enjoy these..... jtm

Also Please only reply at this thread (click on this link) so that we may keep the thread cleaner. http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=205828#post205828 Thank you very much !

Here's Rich.......

Thanks Jim. Its always a pleasure to have you help me present these photographs to our friends. With your professional help, it seems we always have something nice to show.

1. This picture shows the left side of the fuselege with the left rear window in place. As you can see, all of the left side, except the lower section, has been covered, doped and reinforce taped. If you look closely you can also see my radio antenna for the radio or VOR plainly on this side.

Look at previous shots to see the little bracket with its teflon plate which holds the coax firmly in place where it pierces the cloth fabric.

I didn't want any fluttering cloth near the opening which could possibly tear in flight. I also reinforced it with a circle cut out of the dacron and glued on and doped for that purpose. You will note the rivets were installed, and a coat of preservative zinc chromate had been applied over this, to prevent corrosion of the aluminum.

2. This picture shows the ELT antenna on the right side in good detail. If you look at the bar at the bottom of the window(the yahoo window), it now has a per cent enlargement window.

You can magnify any of these thumbnails in increments up to 400 percent. This will allow you to study the details of the work we did if you are interested, or care do do something similar to your littlewing.

You will also note the additional reinforcing circles and tapes over the glued joints in the cloth, at the fairleed window, and other horizontal stabilizer connecting tube openings.
These were just made by tracing the bottom of a coffee cup or tin can, on the dacron cloth, then trimming with a rotory pair of pinking shears.

The effect is very strong, and looks professional, to me at least.

3. Here is a nice view of both of the top windows installed. They are still covered with the original plastic which is supplied on both sides of the plastic window material. It keeps the stuff from getting scratched and dirty during the building process.

As you see it it also has some blue paper tape attached around the edges to keep the epoxy paint off the plastic, until it dries. Nasty stuff to get off once dried!

4. This view shows good detail of my fairleed windows. Inside the window is where the cable fairleed is attached to the airframe. I made mine with a teflon bushing which is split, so that it can be romoved without taking the cable out of the hole.

The romoval of the cable would be impossible, unless you cut the eyes off the ends, then made them all over again. On each side of the bushing is a hairpin like clip which can be removed to slide the bushing out either forward or aft from its location. Then it can be easily replaced with a new one if worn. If anyone wants a detail, I can supply it.


You will also note that the lexan window has some sheet metal screws around its perimiter. They are brass #10-32 machine screws which are tapped into an inner ring of the lexan for attachment. The inner ring was glued with gorilla glue to the cloth, then a reinforcing cloth ring was covered over it, then it was doped and sealed with the orange waterproofing stuff from Wicks Aircraft.

I then used the predrilled holes in the outer cover to drill through the inner ring (the holes were a tap drill size for the bolts to follow), in eight places, prior to attaching the outer window. By the way, all of the reinforcing plates, and these fairleed window details were made from scrap left over from making the windows on the project, so no added cost for the neat little details.

You can also see the plastic cable outlets from Wicks here installed. I also reinforce taped around them, prior to sealing and painting. These cost about four dollars per pair from Wicks.



The window could be left clear if one wanted too, but I chose to paint over mine to make it match the rest of the fuselege.


5. This view is just a detail of the same thing on the other side of the fuselege. On this side you can also see how my external trim bellcranks look after covered. They allow me to trim my elevators for fuel burn, or added passenger weight, without making all the trim adjustment to the rotorhead in flight. I hope that this keeps my controls in a somewhat normal condition throughout the flight taken.

6. This is a shot of the battery on its 1/8" thick fiberglass base. I was able to get this from an electrical engineer friend of mine. The reason is that the fiberglass is strong, lightweight, and can be drilled and tapped for electrical connections. My solenoids for the engine, and prerotator will be mounted to it. I can also terminate my heavy duty leads to it, since it is a total insulator, without any problems.

You can see I made the mounting brackets from aluminum angle, and drilled out as many holes for lightening as possible. Also, I drilled 2" holes under the battery (6 of them) to remove additional weight from the fiberglass itself.

7. This shows the battery from the right side as it would appear in the fuselege. You can see my top mounting brackets and underside reinforcing where the thru bolts attach the battery to the fiberglass plate.

8. Here you can see the underside of the fiberglass battery plate, before I drilled it out under the battery to lighten it up some more. The battery is Wicks dry cell, with over 900 amps of cranking capacity. It should provide plenty of power to prerotate, then get the ignition running and starting the engine. It seems you can't have too much battery when you have an electric prerotator. My engineer friend and I have come up with a reduced amperage starting technique, to reduce the hit on the starter motor, and battery.

If any one is interested in our method, I can supply a sketch for your perusal. It allows a soft start, then full voltage, to get the rotor up to speed smoothly.

Thats it for this group. Best regards: Booster Rich

 

[richard lidke]

More for Rich..... jtm

Thanks Jim.

1. Here I am machining one of the pins for the prerotator brake shoe slides. I am turning it on my 16" lathe. I also drilled and tapped it for a hardened grade 8 allen head cap screw, which attaches it through the matco brake housing casting, underneath the prerotator plate. If any one wants details of this pin, we can supply it.

It is not on the drawings from Littlewing.

2. This shows the tail with sun proof silver coating applied. My little low pressure high volume sprayer from Harbor frieght did a nice job of applying these coatings.

3. Left side of tail with same coating.

4., 5. These were the horizontal airfoils that I made out of the horizontal landing gear struts. By just adding a 1/2" steel tube, a little cloth and balsa wood, I got a nice place to put my foot, and a landing gear light on both sides of the landing gear. See my previous posts to see how the details of this were arranged.

6., 7. These two shots show the detail of how I mounted, taped, and zinc chromate painted the aluminum trim around the windows to prevent its corrosion after it was installed. The trim covers a rubber edging which surrounds the lexan window.

After the window and trim are placed, the plywood is drilled through, using the lexan as a template, then cleco'ed to hold it in place, while pop rivets are passed through the aluminum trim, rubber, lexan, and inner 1/8" window frame, with an internal washer on each rivet.

This makes a smooth, light, strong, window trim, and an area where one can plainly see the tail and forwarward running light with strobe for reference if need be. Also outside visibility was enhanced tremendously over the smaller standard window, for navigation and safety during our coming flights.

8. The detail here shows how I taped the stabilizers, rudder and elevators to add my Coast Guard Orange safety stripes. I feel that the paint did a great job of coating, with just a single coat of white, and orange, to complete this highly visible treatment of the outside surfaces of the aircraft.

Thats it for this section. Best Regards: Booster Rich

 

[richard lidke]

More photos for Rich...... jtm

Thanks again Jim.

1., 2., 3. These three shots show how I had trailered my Littlewing for its first trip on its own running gear to our local EAA pancake breakfast here in Michigan City, Indiana.

I had covered the cab, with no windows, door nor roof yet. It was to keep the wind from causing damage while I trailered it over there about 10 miles from my shop.

I think the paint really is turning out great. If you could see it up close, it really has a nice shine, and real eye popping color contrast.

Just what a Coast Guard helicopter should have eh? At least thats my impression. Got the stripe details and correct angle from my---you guessed it: Coast Guard Station. My old alma matter. Was in there for four years active, 2 reserve. Love their high contrast color scheme.

4. Here's the old man of the sea beside his not yet complete aircraft. Looks pretty good to me so far, maybe I should have worn a life jacket of orange too! lol

Hope you like the work so far. This last photo was at Mentone this summer. I did get my 28 foot rotor blades from Ernie this year. If you look real close or magnify the last two shots, you can see my completed rotorhead with prerotator laying on a little table next to the display. Jim was nice enough to present me with a picture of myself to brag about, oops did I say that! Well at least, I like it so far. Hope you do too!

Thats it for today friends, Booster Rich.

 

[mcbirdman]

Update - Starting Again... finally

Update - Starting Again... finally

Okay, it has been a while since I have done much with the LW 2 place. I have missed making progress and overwhelmed the last couple years with challenges. Since I noticed that the urge to push ahead despite these issues has increased I started reviewing all my plans and past threads. Surprised by the high number of views of this thread I can only imagine that that are some of you who would love an update. I started realizing I had a few extra jobs that could let me finish paying Todd. I talked and shared with Tim Mercer who has been making great headway. It helped fire me up and get out in that cold garage and get going again.

One of the things I liked about the LW Michigan Single Place thread and this thread is that I have been able to pretty much post photos and info on this builder thread and then go over to Little Wing Booster Questions threads that can handle the comments and questions without having to sift through them here without filtering out things unrelated to my build or learning. I'm not even sure if Rich still comes here if not it is
just me left and I will boost as good as I can as I learn from my mistakes and look forward to getting the two place done.

I feel there is some time for more fun things in life and knowing it is those special moments that provide us with the energy to do things NOT so fun.... It is time to make a push for those moments that reach for the dream.

Rich and I have been in contact. He has just retired and will likely be travelling up at least a bit to help at some point. I am ready to start making the mount for the Yamaha soon but am trying to get other things done while I wait.

As I've looked at the 2 place and struggled with a crowded front seat I have struggled with the idea of just making it as per plans and being unhappy or providing a solution to the cramped front quarters for a 6' tall person. After having thought about it a while ago and sitting in the front I decided changes had to be made for me. The way the nose curves up basically means sitting in a seat with your ankles and knees feeling like they are pressed up into your gut. Trying to get your toes on the brakes when your ankles already have them bent to the max so your foot is pointing toward your forehead leaves you feeling tired just sitting there. Once I am in, I can't push back in my seat and twist my knees toward the door and lift the feet out because the foot doesn't clear.
How can I finish something that still needs work? Hard to get into, out of and sit in? I realize smaller people would have no problem but how many of us are small?

The change I was about to make was/is going to take a bit to get on track but basically it means - lowering the floor. No problem, there will be a radiator hanging down below the engine anyway and having it there can be used for cabin heat. Stretching out by letting the legs lower down 5" provides more comfort clearing the dash and removes the knees in the chest crunch.
Put the seat on a track so it can move back about 4 inches for solo flight from the front and push it back for egress in order to allow knees to swivel legs out of door.
Remove torque tube assembly and place below airframe. This clears the upper floor for egress but keeps the stick "shorter" out of the floor but just as much leverage/throw.
It will give me a problem when I need to put a notch down the whole belly tank to clear the torque tube but I can get around it later....
So, to that end, I worked a couple days on the floor pans. May not look like a lot but the pedals are reworked except for the heel brakes. It took a lot of guts to take an already completed front floor apart but I believe it is at least a way to fix things.

Going to hurt to cut out a control assembly ready to go but not only will we gain room but the cables will be looped out the inside of the cabin behind the back seat instead of out the side of the a/c by the landing gear. I never liked that and Ron was kind enough to show me how to do this and I believe it is worth the work. So here is step one:

The floor Pans. Here is the problem. I put my friend Mike in front to show the fit. Bigger or smaller look at the forced slouching and fit.

 

[mcbirdman]

Here is what I have done to lower feet and pedals.

 

[mcbirdman]

We should be starting to gain some room now... And I am starting to get things done again. Still have to get some more thin wood for floors, make new tabs to weld to frame (to screw wood to frame) and heel brake placement but this 2 day project will be appreciated 4 ever. well, at least every time we get in.....

 

[All_In]

Nice work James, thanks for sharing.

 

[mcbirdman]

Ok, a little more work done. Pedals and Brakes Work, resized the Pedals so panels can be installed on inside walls. Redid the seats again so that They both tilt. My friend Bob gave me the upholstry out of a GEO.

After looking at how heavy duty the seats were and how they were constructed I figured out a way to eliminate ANY sewing and with a few cuts resize the covers to fit my seat frames with little work. I like the idea of vinyl because you can pivot on your butt and yet the fabric looks sooo good. I again made a rear seat pocket, and was able to make the seats so much nicer without the heavy framework. I have been working on the fuel tank mockup from which I am making paper templates for alluminum construction.

I had to move a couple bushings that suppport the rudder cables, a few other parts so that I can start the side panels in a way that allows easy removal for inspection and maintanance. There isn't much to show in this area except to know that once it is in place it will look as cool as the seats.

I can't believe I figured out the seat cover without ruining anything ! I am not an upholsterer. Here is a few quick phone shots that show the fuselage changes but with the old seat style.

 

[mcbirdman]

This is when I figured out how to modify my lightweight seat frames to accept the upohlstry and foam. Car Seat frames are over built for what we are doing. Pix one is getting the ideas.

Then I stratigically cut the foam and drew it in to the much smaller front airplane seat. I put a pocket in the back same as the first time I covered them. Front one tilts forward and the back one is full sized back with reduced bottom cusion for cyclic clearance. Both seats are quite comfy now and look good.

 

[mcbirdman]

My friend Bob flew to Colorado to pick up a truck. He drove it back and was lucky to meet up with Racer/Todd.

Todd got me the faceplate and the basic engine I had sitting out there. I didn't need all the parts yet but this gives me a good idea on what I will have to fabricate. I wished I could have been there but it is great that a friend could meet Todd. He is setting me up with the engine, redrive cage and prop clutch.

I wonder how many inches does the rotax redrive offset from the crank? I have the engine in front of my two place and it sure looks like even though the crank is low - that the redrive will put it within an inch or two of centerline and still have the engine head not above the "normal" sized cowling.

How many inches is the offset please? I thought is was maybe 5.5 inches? If it is then I think the orientation and thrust line using this engine is much better than I thought.

 

[B Hawley]

LW5 with Yamaha 130FI and belt PSRU in Northern California

LW5 with Yamaha 130FI and belt PSRU in Northern California

I thought I would just throw my two cents in concerning my project.
The first pic is the green laser alignment step, the fuse was aligned in all three axes, with the laser at the center line of the fuse. Current laser position is 6” above the center of the longerons, or 6” above the center of thrust.
The second pic is of the side view of the engine with a full scale cross section, CAD generated, print out of the side of the PSRU assembly. Note the crank insertion into the small cog belt sprocket. Small cog to large cog distance is 9” o.c. with a +/- .5” adjustment for belt removal and tensioning. This is all taped on the front of the left and right engine mount frame members. The laser is on a precision lab jack and is lowered 6” while retaining all original alignments. The engine, with the PSRU cut out is lowered into place. The prop hub adaptor is centered on the laser, in the “X’ and “Y” axes, with the engine level, left to right. Hole locations are marked through the frame members onto the 3/8” aluminum adaptor / dampening plate. Note the Left and Right engine frame members hold the engine in a 3 degree downwards angle, per plans.
The third pic shows the side view of the assembly, ready to drill the mounting holes for the frame members to backing plate attachments.
Brad Hawley
[email protected]

 

[Passin' Thru]

I wonder how many inches does the rotax redrive offset from the crank? I have the engine in front of my two place and it sure looks like even though the crank is low - that the redrive will put it within an inch or two of centerline and still have the engine head not above the "normal" sized cowling.

How many inches is the offset please? I thought is was maybe 5.5 inches? If it is then I think the orientation and thrust line using this engine is much better than I thought.

Which gear box?
The "B" box offset is 72 mm.
The "C" & "E" box offset is 80 mm.

 

[mcbirdman]

Thanks Pete - C box -a little over 3 inches I guess eyballing it it will be about 2 inches below centerline thrust as placed.

Hi Brad - Looks good. Looks like you are well on your way with redrive. I guess if I don't have to scratch build a redrive and can end up with a beltless bolt on redrive only a couple inches lower than centerline then we are way better off than I had originally thought. Wish I could, like you, but I think I can make it work without being an engineer.

 

[HobbyCAD]

James, what model and year is your Yamaha engine? Is it carby or FI? It has a coolant outlet coming out on top of the valve cover, correct?

Brad, what model and year is your Yamaha engine? Yours seems to be the same as I have, sourced from a 2008 FX Nytro. It does not have the problematic timing belt tensioner that the other models have (blue dot vs orange dot). If I'm correct, good news, you are the first I find using the same model engine.

 

[mcbirdman]

Hi Francois.

Yes, Carby. From Todd/Racer. He said he changes all of the timing tensioners on his engines. I am buying His Redrive system and will be trying to find some time to fit the engine soon as I can redirect some attention.

Sunday I went to a building a block from the Navy Pier in Chicago to pick up a truck with my friend the Car Repair Shop owner Bob. We drove back down very near to Tom Milton and Chuck Roberg but I figured they wouldn't appreciate a phone call at 2:30 in the morning.

On the way down we picked up extra metal, tools, LONG 4130 tubing, rotary pinking shears for fabric covering and more. I was happy to stop by Rich's house but so sad to visit the barn where we built 3 two place airframes. It is so empty there now and I feel bad for Rich for having sold his machine as well as the other builder. I am glad for the opportunity he shared with me so that now I have options but there are some new options still out there.

I am trying to keep Rich involved in the activities as I wish I could return the same favor that he blessed me with by sharing his engineering background. People like that are becoming more rare by the day and it is a shame that he lives so far from me. He still comes up and stays with us occasionally and attends some of our family parties so I am sure he knows how much we think of him. I would not have a two place airframe sitting in my garage had it not been for him.

So while I have to still drive to kansas in the next few weeks to retrieve my son who is helping his grandpa move - I have to keep fixing up an apartment so it can finally be re-rented again and make life easier.

Does anyone know where I can get some bronze tinted lexan? I need to get the aircraft covered and closed up so the upholstry doesn't get dirty while I am trying to get the Yamaha put on. We used to have a place in Lima Ohio we used to drive by that does not carry it anymore. Is there something between Wichita and Michigan that I could pick some up?

Anyway, that is where I am at with my progress. The metal tubing should give me the material I need to figure something out.

 

[B Hawley]

Little Wing 5 with Yamaha 130FI and BELT PSRU update

Little Wing 5 with Yamaha 130FI and BELT PSRU update

Just an update and a couple of pics of the LW5 project. I received the final part for the belt PSRU yesterday. Assembled today and all fits great. Should pickup the Hub adaptor next week. Then start saving up for the three blade Warp Drive prop. This belt PSRU is designed with the potential need of adding a captured bearing in the front of the crank shaft cog pulley. Just in case crank shaft bearing wear becomes an issue or concern. The housing for this bearing can be mounted on the same backing plate that you see attached to the engine mount framework.
Other concurrent LW5 projects:
- Trying to locate a pair of aluminum radiators in the 6” x 16” x 2” range,
one for each side.
- Todd is working getting me the parts needed for the exhaust system.
- Fuel tank 1 was ordered and paid for. Got burned by Preceptor Aircraft,
along with many others, when owner walked away with all the money.
- I have a foam plug made for Tank 1, between firewall and instrument panel.
- I have the foam plug made for Tank 2, between copilots legs, which contains fuel pump. BUT I need some advice on glassing a
tank with the new gas additives.
- Instrument panel is finished. (non electrical)
- Original 130FI wiring harness has had most non essentials, such as head lights
and hand grip warmer wires, surgically removed.

Just a lot of details. Saving as I go.
Brad H Grass Valley, Northern California

 

[mcbirdman]

Hi Brad, Glad to see you're doing good. I worked this weekend for 2 days and made 2 motor mounts for the yamaha engine. I made a quick jig to help hold the engine on the hydrolic motorcycle jack for precise positioning. Here are a few photos. I was thinking about posting them soon but since you are posting your build photos in the thread I started on my builds I thought maybe I should update. I haven't done a lot of building for a few reasons but every once in a while I go at it in marathon sessions. Looks like there will be little if any bump in the cowling and a lot of room underneath for the radiator. It is the first time I pulled this out of the garage with an engine on front. Pretty exciting. Now I am going to have to get with Todd to buy the rest of the conversion parts.

That PRSU Belt looks cool and beautiful ! Wish I could make that. Although I have a belt on the VW Little Wing - I decided that it was beyond my means to make one so I will have to deal with the slightly lower thrust line. Sorry to hear about preceptor tank deal. That is too bad. I wanted to get another tank but knew things were going badly so I made a plug for the top tank and belly tanks. I may just make cardboard templates and make them out of alluminum. I have had problems with the preceptor tank leaking and so has Ron.

I will try to post some closer photos of the motor mount when I put the engine back on. I took it off tonight to whizz wheel and paint it. The other one will stored for now.

 

[B Hawley]

Little Wing 5 with Yamaha 130FI and BELT PSRU update

Little Wing 5 with Yamaha 130FI and BELT PSRU update

The LW5 in Grass Valley, Northern California, Yamaha 130FI with a belt PSRU, is moving along at the slow pace of saving money.
Just another update with more info to add to my last update, at the end of the previous page.
The propeller hub adaptor is on now, all fits great. Ready for prop and spinner.
I know I will be using two radiators in the 6” x 14” x 2” range, in the front on each side of the 130FI. I have some RFQ’s out for a set of custom aluminum radiators, they have to be cheaper than the single $450 rotax one off the shelf and I can have them made exactly the way I want.
I have decided on the location of the sump tank, the battery and all of the electronics that came with the engine, all can be forward of the firewall.
I have included a pic of a plane from my local airport that has an aluminum sheet metal cowling with a fiberglass nose. The way the sides flair open at the rear will, in my case, continue the general frontal shape started by the engine and radiator set. As well as creating exiting ducts for cooling.
I have some side view pics of the LW5 to show the lowered position of the engine when using a belt PSRU. Note that in the plans version the firewall is still .75” to low in the center. If left this way I will need to change the angle of the cowling as it transitions from the instrument panel to firewall to the nose cowling. The current plans built firewall has a 10” wide flat and horizontal section along the top center. If I radius this section up .75” in the center, the cowling angle will remain the same as in the last pic, with about .75” clearance to the spark plugs.
Suggestions and comments are greatly appreciated.
[email protected]
Brad H