Aviomania G2sA-2 build

I don't think the Razor Blades are large enough, length or chord, for the weight of the 2 place machine.
Absolutely right, my bad, didn’t check the picture out.
 
This weekend's progress saw the Fuel Tanks and Rear Seat assembly fitted, at least temporarily.
The seat has come off as I must put the rear Throttle assy on prior to final fitting.
 

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Yes 2 tanks interconnected with total of 70 litters capacity ( about 19 US gallons)
 
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I placed the Aviomania Slider Rotorhead onto the mast last weekend.
Still some adjusting to do !
 

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Started the process of mating the Rotax 912 to the G2 frame.
 

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I received my custom Rudder Cables yesterday from Aircraft Spruce ($57 for the long ones, $50 for the short ones).
The Aviomania kit supplies cables and ferrules, but my first attempt at that just wasn't satisfactory, so I ordered custom. They fit.
Might put the front turnbuckles on the aft end (still looking at that) of the front cable.
One thing: Aircraft Spruce is a bit slow on cable assemblies. They quoted 5-10 days, but it took 1.5 months. Quality looks great.
Tidy up the fuel tank with a vent line and the filler cap, then the Rear Seat goes on permanent (hopefully this weekend!).
 

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I received my custom Rudder Cables yesterday from Aircraft Spruce ($57 for the long ones, $50 for the short ones).
The Aviomania kit supplies cables and ferrules, but my first attempt at that just wasn't satisfactory, so I ordered custom. They fit.
Might put the front turnbuckles on the aft end (still looking at that) of the front cable.
One thing: Aircraft Spruce is a bit slow on cable assemblies. They quoted 5-10 days, but it took 1.5 months. Quality looks great.
Tidy up the fuel tank with a vent line and the filler cap, then the Rear Seat goes on permanent (hopefully this weekend!).
"but my first attempt at that just wasn't satisfactory" - Can you, please, explain what was not "right"? Thank you. Georgi.
 
Well Georgi, I was attempting to adjust the cable length and crimp the eyelets into place, as normal practice.
The crimping tool is large and maybe a bit cumbersome, so I enlisted my wife's assistance.
She is not so good at assisting and I made a mistake in entrusting her to understand my instructions (turned out she didn't).
The ferrules slipped (yes, multiples) a bit resulting in loose ("lose", Tyger? ;)) eyelets.
I tried to 'carefully' grind/cut the bad ferrule off, but that didn't work out too well.
New parts would have to be ordered.......................... or I could measure and order some custom cables with swaged fittings.
The swaged fittings are much nicer looking to me without the loose cable end and, in my opinion, stronger due to the greater grip area.
So, the reason would be "poor workmanship" from me on the crimped ferrule version.
 
Well Georgi, I was attempting to adjust the cable length and crimp the eyelets into place, as normal practice.
The crimping tool is large and maybe a bit cumbersome, so I enlisted my wife's assistance.
She is not so good at assisting and I made a mistake in entrusting her to understand my instructions (turned out she didn't).
The ferrules slipped (yes, multiples) a bit resulting in loose ("lose", Tyger? ;)) eyelets.
I tried to 'carefully' grind/cut the bad ferrule off, but that didn't work out too well.
New parts would have to be ordered.......................... or I could measure and order some custom cables with swaged fittings.
The swaged fittings are much nicer looking to me without the loose cable end and, in my opinion, stronger due to the greater grip area.
So, the reason would be "poor workmanship" from me on the crimped ferrule version.
Smack, thank you very much for "the rest of the story"
P.S. Should I divorce my wife before any work on my gyro? Hmm, good idea?!
 
Well, I must say that the wife is perfectly functional when used within her intended role.
Definitely helps to have 'good' help for projects. (y)
 
The fact that your wife helps you at all, I would say was a pretty significant step over the many whose wives wanted nothing to do with pet projects.
 
The fact that your wife helps you at all, I would say was a pretty significant step over the many whose wives wanted nothing to do with pet projects.
Having a wife that is supportive of such an endeavor at all is a blessing. Especially when it comes to the money part.
 
Last weekend saw the initial fitting of the forward fairing.
It is looking a bit more like a G2 now !
This evening's plan is to match drill a couple of holes (at the ends of the horiz supports on the Rudder Pedal pivot).
Aviomania cleverly allows those fittings to rotate and slide in/out to account for mfg tolerance and it aids in fairing installation.
I'll have to drill and pin those fittings, too.
The pilot's foot clearance during Rudder Pedal deflection hasn't been tested yet; that is an area of concern for me.
Throttle levers (front / rear) are now installed and I've run up against needing to figure out where to mount the Throttle Cable 'splitter' (and how to properly shorten it) where the single cable converts to the two cables (one to each Rotax carburetor.
 

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Did the final fitting of the forward fairing on Saturday.
A test-sit alleviated my concerns about the Rudder Pedal / foot / fairing clearance. It is okay for now.
I am at the limit for the G2's adjustable Rudder Pedals and my legs are bent a little bit more than I would like, but it is okay to start (perhaps a change to the pedals' location later on.
I positioned the instrument panel and had a friend hold it in place as I exited the cockpit.
Knee clearance to instrument panel is good; the exit procedure is: pull the legs back, put feet as far back as possible on floorboards, reach back to use the sturdy pilot seat as a handhold, and stand up.
The floorboards attach to a forward weldment (it has 2 attachment points to Frame) and a rear weldment (4 attachment points). As the floorboard hardware is countersink screws, location of the tapped holes in the two weldments is really important !
Fortunately, a small amount of pushing on the floorboards aligned all holes. Kinda impressed that Aviomania has that kind of manufacturing accuracy !
I stopped at the instrument panel install as I have to first fix a bit of shipping damage that was not noticed until now and I have to find the connector cable for the back of the pre-wired panel. Also have an altimeter to install...
 
Slowly progressing...
Since the last update, I've:
- determined that the horiz stabilizer damage was NOT 'shipping', but 'builder-caused' (rebuilt, resolved)
- installed pre-rotator
- cabled the throttle, choke, and pre-rotator
- installed radiators and connected water hoses (oil hose connection on-hold awaiting an oil pump fitting correction)
- installed exhaust system (hard to see, but Aviomania has a nice bracket on top of the muffler for added support/security)
- and...... the Warp Drive prop is at the initial stage of fit-up.

I would rather have a better solution to the prop bolts orientation (nuts behind speed reducer's flange) as I would prefer to put the torque wrench on the nut, but I don't yet see a way for that.

Next is to (finally) install the instrument panel, fill with oil, add seatbelts/antenna, then....... the 'hang test' followed by weighing the machine.
After that is attaching the rotor, windscreen, and connecting the wiring harness.
Still need to figure out a sumping point to finalize the fuel system.
A bit more 'paperwork' with the DAR...
Probably some other bits, too.
Getting closer...
 

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The SportCopter 28ft rotor was attached on Sunday.
Weigh-in happened Saturday (585 lbs, oil & water, but no fuel) as did the 'hang test' (mast approx 8 degrees forward of vertical).

Hmmmm, need to figure out a 'rotor sock' and where to tie it to the airframe.
Hope to attach the battery box and electric fuel pump today (I currently think that I will have to make adapter brackets to use existing supplied airframe holes).

Received a missing oil pump fitting, so should finalize the oil system today, too.

Now it looks like a gyroplane !
Brian
 

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Smack on my ELA I managed to get my 8mm bolt heads behind the gearbox flange by using aluminium spacer inserts and by installing 1 bolt at a time through the gap near the fuel pump. This allowed torqueing at the prop faceplate as you want.

I'm guessing that you still need to install your pre rotator belt?

Regards........Chook.
 
Smack on my ELA I managed to get my 8mm bolt heads behind the gearbox flange by using aluminium spacer inserts and by installing 1 bolt at a time through the gap near the fuel pump. This allowed torqueing at the prop faceplate as you want.

I'm guessing that you still need to install your pre rotator belt?

Regards........Chook.
Thanks, Chook, I'll see if that space is open near my fuel pump. Did not think of that...

No, the Aviomania does not use a belt on the prerotator; it uses a rubber wheel that is pressed (friction) against an aluminum drive wheel.
The rubber wheel is directly connected to the flex-shaft.
Brian
 
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