Alternate engine expierences and builds

[HobbyCAD]

Where are you getting those shoes?

They are stock Mini-500 clutch parts.

The wear pads are nothing more than .060" (1.5mm) Gfk fibreglass sheets. The same base material in good quality electronic PCB's.

I bought some good quality sheets from a guy in Germany here , I'm sure you will find some in the States.

 

[GyroRon]

It looks like you have a very simple fix to your problem Ron.

Only if HobbyCad can cook me up a set and ship to me.... I can't make em, all I have is a china drill press and a hacksaw

 

[HobbyCAD]

I can't make em, all I have is a china drill press and a hacksaw

You'll find that all that's required is to measure the width of your shoes, machine off enough to accomodate bonding 2 fibreglass pads on the sides, and your shoes will be exactly what I have. I'm sure anyone with a mill will do it in a flash. Set the shoe up square, and mill off a little bit, if required.

Maybe when your clutch shoes fit "snug", the springs won't break either.

Do me a favor, measure the width of your clutch shoes, and let me know.

After running a while, mine comes in at 2.045" wide, including wearpads. My Clutch Drive has the slots at 2.056" wide, thus a clutch shoe spacing of 0.005" per side.

With my clutch shoes in the drum, there is a 0.05" gap between the shoe outer rim and the drum inside, this is the distance the clutch shoe has to move out, to engage and grip.

A single shoe weighs 222 grams.

 

[Jason O]

Bonding material

Bonding material

Hello HobbyCAD,

What type of adhesive do you think should be used to glue the wear pads onto the shoes.

Jason

You'll find that all that's required is to measure the width of your shoes, machine off enough to accomodate bonding 2 fibreglass pads on the sides, and your shoes will be exactly what I have. I'm sure anyone with a mill will do it in a flash. Set the shoe up square, and mill off a little bit, if required.

Maybe when your clutch shoes fit "snug", the springs won't break either.

Do me a favor, measure the width of your clutch shoes, and let me know.

After running a while, mine comes in at 2.045" wide, including wearpads. My Clutch Drive has the slots at 2.056" wide, thus a clutch shoe spacing of 0.005" per side.

With my clutch shoes in the drum, there is a 0.05" gap between the shoe outer rim and the drum inside, this is the distance the clutch shoe has to move out, to engage and grip.

A single shoe weighs 222 grams.

 

[Jason O]

More clutch questions

More clutch questions

Is there more than one wear pad on the shoes?

Is the wearpad wider than the friction pad on the shoes (do you just machine away the metal on the shoe or the whole shoe)

You'll find that all that's required is to measure the width of your shoes, machine off enough to accomodate bonding 2 fibreglass pads on the sides, and your shoes will be exactly what I have. I'm sure anyone with a mill will do it in a flash. Set the shoe up square, and mill off a little bit, if required.

Maybe when your clutch shoes fit "snug", the springs won't break either.

Do me a favor, measure the width of your clutch shoes, and let me know.

After running a while, mine comes in at 2.045" wide, including wearpads. My Clutch Drive has the slots at 2.056" wide, thus a clutch shoe spacing of 0.005" per side.

With my clutch shoes in the drum, there is a 0.05" gap between the shoe outer rim and the drum inside, this is the distance the clutch shoe has to move out, to engage and grip.

A single shoe weighs 222 grams.

 

[Racer]

This thread has my full attention, This looks like the answer I have been looking for... I believe in the centrifigal clutch but I know it needs to be improved for longevity.
Please keep writing because I am taking notes and will change my design if it will prove to be better.

 

[All_In]

I really enjoy the way folks on this forum share information and SOLVE problems!

You guys ROCK!

 

[Friendly]

This thread has my full attention, This looks like the answer I have been looking for... I believe in the centrifigal clutch but I know it needs to be improved for longevity.
Please keep writing because I am taking notes and will change my design if it will prove to be better.

Todd,
Its good to see you posting, \ Glad to see you able to get more time in on your pet project.

 

[HobbyCAD]

Jason,

I don't think the adhesive has to be anything super fancy. The same adhesive used to bond on the friction pad would be the best choice.

My 2 sets of shoes all had the friction pad put on after the side wearpads were put on, thus the friction pad covers the complete front. You should thus machines away only behind the friction pad, to allow 2 sidepads to be fitted. I think the idea is to have the friction pad sit exactly inside the clutch drive groove as well, with the same width as the rest of the shoe plus sidepad, so it does not have any freeplay during the sideloading, as the whole side takes up load against the drive pillar. The rotation of the drum might shear off the friction pad, if it has a gap.

 

[Friendly]

Todd ,
you may find this article interesting as it addresses the high speed engagement of the snowmobile clutches:

Ski-Doo engineers took the time and effort — plus engineering dollars — to examine how to make the new ACE engine power seamlessly and smoothly. It’s truly noticeable in the Grand Touring and a bit less so in the shorter tracked MXZ sport model. We were stunned at how smooth the Grand Touring Sport with the 600 ACE worked. On our test ride we borrowed a Yamaha long-tracked Venture Lite, a sled we really like, as a point of comparison. Keeping in mind that the Yamaha four-stroke motor is a higher revving design and more powerful as well, we noticed a definite difference in smoothness in favor of the Ski-Doo.

To get this effect, Ski-Doo engineers reached over to their sister product line of Can-Am ATVs and looked at the ATV drive system. They found things they liked and recognized how they would need to do things differently for their snowmobile. The end result is the eDrive primary clutch, which is lighter by 3.1 pounds than the older Securistat-derived sled clutch. The important result is how the drive works without the seeming herky-jerky engagement to which we had become accustomed. While you won’t be rocketed up to 50 mph, the acceleration action will be incredibly smooth. It’s like the difference between an old Chevrolet Powerglide two-speed automatic and a modern Mercedes-Benz seven-speed 7G-Tronic transmission.