I could get it as high as +110C stationary on the ground today running 3500RPM, OAT was +22C. Could not check in-flight as I finished the installation after sunset.Green arc is 90 to 110 C so it was on lower side. How much higher is it now?
Hi Inquiring Mind,8.8m.
I rarely fly over 2000' MSL, so 98C is still needed to boil the water in-flight.You don't really need to hit the (sea-level) boiling point of water (100C) to have it evaporate out of your oil. 90C is quite sufficient.
The boiling point of water goes down by about 1 degree C for each thousand feel of altitude.
Yes, from open pan water will evaporate in the open eventually, but in closed crankcase it will condence on internal wall (think - on valves, pistons, rings, crankshaft, push-rods, etc) and go back to the oil to rust everything inside. I prefer to boil the water from the oil before I reach pattern altitude.Besides that, just leave a pan of water on a warm (40C) radiator and see how long it takes to evaporate.
Yes, I cut originally installed fittings connected to thermostat and installed new fittings to old pipes.Hi Inquiring Mind,
Very nice job on the oil thermostat. Did you have to change the Magni oil piping to suite the new FSM 215 unit?
Yes, every time oil system is opened in suction side of it(except draining oil tank) it need to be purged. I do it by Rotax instruction I enclosed below, except I don't pressurize the oil tank and I don't rotate the prop by hand, instead I use Start button (with all sparkplugs removed, of course).Did you have to purge the oil system?
I will post results here after flying with FSM-215. Hopefully I'll fly next weekend.This FSM 215 looks very attractive especially if it performs better that the original valve supplied with the Magni M24.
Thanks, John H.
I did not choose any options, I just replaced original thermostat without changing anything. I had no idea about those options. Here is the pic of the flow from manufacturer:Hi Inquiring Mind,
What oil flow arrangement did you opt for: Standard flow, Reverse flow or Cross flow? Just wondering which option is best in the event of thermostatic valve failure?
Thanks, John H.
Sometimes I didn't even get to 90C.90C is quite sufficient.
Sometimes it is 82C:I promise you that water does not need to be at its boiling point to evaporate very quickly, especially at indicated temps over 90C.
It will condense after landing, when metal parts start cooling down first.It's not going to condense on the valves and pistons, etc – those items will be well over 100C whenever your engine is running.
Rotax recommends motorcycle oil, which is formulated for the bikes with wet clutch, Magni recommends motorcycle oil too. Mobil 1 Racing 4T is exactly the oil for such bikes. BTW, I would not use fully synthetic oil if I had no access to unleaded gas, I'd use Aeroshell-4, which is semi-synthetic.What made you choose that motor oil, as opposed to the AeroShell that Rotax recommends?
Products of gasoline combustion are mostly water vapor and CO2. Some of it goes to crankcase, and condense on oil if oil temperature is below water boiling temperature at the flight altitude.I promise you that water does not need to be at its boiling point to evaporate very quickly,
Thanks. Dave! I'll be happy to help by answering your questions when you start building the panel.Really nice panel. I'd like to copy that when I get my next gyro!