First 25 Hour Inspection on my Mini-500

The inner race of the bearing is not going to spin with 3620 pounds of press exerted on it with only 78hp to transfer. Nor will the seal cause enough torque to make the rear spacer spin causing the o-ring to mark the pinion shaft-end.

You got a different problem. For some reason you are not clamping on the complete stack-up. I don't know what it is nor do I have time to apply any brain-time to think about it, but I know it is not due to too much torque, or that bearing would be burnt.

I think you may have changed something on the stack-up, making the pinion shaft end too long. With the main sprocket assembly installed, the pinion shaft end should being 1/16" too short for the stack-up, so the final retaining washer will clamp the units together.
 
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Thanks Dennis,
I can tell your chain-of-thought is that the sandwich of inner races are not being squeezed.
My pinion end is definitely 1/16" - 1/8" shy of extending all the way through so tightening the bolt does squeeze.

The biggest puzzlement is how the rollers of the tapered front bearing were NOT wanting to roll freely around the inner race. They were wanting to slip as they rolled around. The rollers's surfaces look very good when viewed 10X. The cup`s inside surface ...not so good. That entire inner surface of the cup looks like the rings around Saturn. You cannot feel it with your finger but at 10X it looks like the cylinder wall of a seized 2-stroke engine. Nothing has been excessively hot because discoloring is almost non-existent.

Just estimating it, I'd say it looks like the rollers were 75% rolling and 25% sliding. I am certain enough oil was being supplied but it was 90W-140 oil. Maybe that thick goo was making the rollers sort of hydroplane on the cup surface????

The tooth pattern of mesh could not be better! It is absolutely located perfectly per Arrow and Gleason literature. I was concerned about this because I had no data on case flex under flight loads, but you can clearly see where the tooth contact patches are polished to a mirror finish and THAT IS UNDER FLIGHT LOADS!

My aft dual-row angular contact bearing has been very happy and its tell-a-temp indicated a 160-170 degree operation temp. The tell-a-temp at the front roller bearing always showed 200 degrees plus.

The pinion trying to SQUIRT OUT rearward under flight loads pushes that roller bearing harder into the cup. It seems like I remember B.J. Schramm saying the Helicycle pinion has 6,200 pounds of rearward separation force.

My tapered roller was not an aerospace-grade bearing. I am going to reassemble it with a new aerospace helicopter gearbox grade one? Maybe that will do it. I will be following the advice of the Timken Design Engineers.
 
... For some reason you are not clamping on the complete stack-up...I think you may have changed something on the stack-up... ...the pinion shaft end should being 1/16" too short for the stack-up,...

You have got me thinking now! I DID increase the length of that bolt because I didn't feel 4 threads was enough engagement. There is a chance, since I was trying to benefit from every single thread, that the bolt is bottoming in the hole and never achieving the clamp pressure,

That make sense even though I would hope I have more forethought than that! I will torque it all up and see how much force is needed to rotate the aft drive flange. If it seems low, I will cut 2 threads off the bolt length on the lathe.
I DO think however, I will go to 1/2"-20 for the bolt to get more squeeze.

Thanks again Dennis. I would have never thought to check that because I was CERTAIN I had checked and double-checked before choosing the new bolt length.
 
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You have got me thinking now! I DID increase the length of that bolt because I didn't feel 4 threads was enough engagement. There is a chance, since I was trying to benefit from every single thread, that the bolt is bottoming in the hole and never achieving the clamp pressure,

That make sense even though I would hope I have more forethought than that! I will torque it all up and see how much force is needed to rotate the aft drive flange. If it seems low, I will cut 2 threads off the bolt length on the lathe.
I DO think however, I will go to 1/2"-20 for the bolt to get more squeeze.

Thanks again Dennis. I would have never thought to check that because I was CERTAIN I had checked and double-checked before choosing the new bolt length.

As you say, that makes more since than anything, if you had the stack-up (sandwich) correct.

I want to take this opportunity to use as a history lesson, and hope that it will help demonstrate some of what I was up against selling the Mini-500.

People just love to tinker and customize their stuff, especially if they are required to put it together themselves... let alone compounding the problem of making assembly mistakes or knowingly leaving a handful of parts off not knowing where they went, and still flying the aircraft incomplete and modified, even without inadequate dynamic balancing, and in most cases none at all, and then wonder why they had problems and shift the blame to the factory.

Yes, we at the factory were not perfect, nor did we design the world’s first and only perfect helicopter off the line without some growing pains, as many of you seemingly expected I should have been able to do, but this greatly compounded what we had to deal with to resolve any of our own design or manufacturing problems.

Every Mini-500 was assembled by someone other than our people at the factory, so every case of a customer calling for help was different. My people were like forensic investigators, trying their best to ask the right questions to drag the information out of the customer, all over the phone miles away, so we could help solve their problems. In almost every case, it would lead to some change the customer made, or something he did wrong, if we could drag the truth out of them at that time. But, the first response we received from him was "I did everything right and according to the assembly manual", which just made our jobs harder, because the customer was always looking for warranty to cover their problems. Hell, we all do that.

I would have never thought to ask Bryan if the changed the bold to make it longer. We would just assume he used the right parts in the right place according to the assembly manual. So weeks would have passed talking over the phone, with the customer being discouraged because we can’t figure out what the problem is, and him thinking we must be stupid or something. This happened all the time, until we would finally get our hands on the aircraft and find the undisclosed truth, in which case the customer would have said he didn’t disclose that because he didn’t think that made any difference….. and never with any apologies for not answering with the truth in the first place and causing us to spend so much time on his behalf trying to help. It was a very hard job.

The great thing about Europe is that they can fully assemble and test fly every vehicle, and then handed the customer something in a working condition that flew correctly and smooth. That was the big difference, not that they designed better aircraft, but they had control over the vehicle when and after it left the factory.

This is why we had such a strict contract that discouraged people from making changes. Not because I was some power-hungry Nazi on a power-trip. I just needed a way to try and limit this type of activity so that we could not only have a better chance of helping our customers, but so that we would have a fleet all operating under the same conditions so that if problems occurred, we could better determine if it was a design mistake or just an assembly mistake.
 
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Bryan, have you modeled up the 1/2" bolt versus the 5/16" bolt into the rear of the pinion?

Cheers,

Francois

Bryan, Before you make this change, you better see how much meat you would have between the outer thread and the bottom of the keyway. You don't need to increase the size of this bolt.

I remember back in the old days some guy figured he would listen to the advice of his wife, bigger is better, and he drilled out the torque tube on his Bensen head for the central bearing mount to replace the 3/8" bolt with a 1/2" bolt. The thinning of the walls on the torque tube weakened to the point it failed. The good news was that out of the wreckage it was discovered that the 1/2" bolt was still in perfect condition.
 
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...Before you make this change, you better see how much meat you would have between the outer thread and the bottom of the keyway...

Dennis ,
I appreciate your advice because Lord knows, I have forgotten some crap in my days... so don't stop...

...but this time, I had already realized that . Are you using AEROSPACE GRADE helicopter bearings in your precision gearboxes on your big drones????

https://www.timken.com/products/tim...-products/gearboxes-transmissions/rotorcraft/


picture.php
 
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I'm sorry Bryan. I didn't see you had that covered about the larger tapped hole. I'm running around like a chicken with his head cut off for a few days now. I had to ready myself for a trip to California for two weeks. Just got here and checked into hotel. Good to be back in USA for a while.

And to you morons spreading the false news the FBI is looking for me, well I cleared customs again for the 5th time since they posted that.
 
Well...

Well...

Bryan, have you modeled up the 1/2" bolt versus the 5/16" bolt into the rear of the pinion?

Cheers,

Francois

I misinformed you. The stock bolt is 3/8-24. I think there`s enough room for a 1/2-20 but I haven`t confirmed it for certain.

I have the day off and I plan to check today and if there`s enough, I will take it to the machine shop. I`ll let you know.

I really wish I had made sure the 3/8 bolt was short enough and this slipping problem would have never reared its ugly head. My lubricant temp would not have risen like it did.

The rule of thumb on this is...if the bolt screws in to a depth 1.5 x its diameter, it can carry the full rated tension. Any more threads than that just adds weight.

My logic was... the additional length I added DOES add some friction between the male and female threads and decreases the bolt`s likelihood of loosening over time. I could just have used large safety wire ????

If I go to a 1/2 Diameter bolt, it will really only need 3/4" of thread engagement.
 
I have decided to replace the harder 55A Durometer Barry Mounts of the MRGB with Red/White 35A Durometer ones. I`m testing to see if it decreases rotor vibrations transmitted through the frame to the seat and cyclic stick.
 
Well...my goal was to get at least 1.5x diameter of threads engaging to achieve 9000#of compress force. There was barely enough space to achieve that for a 1/2-20 MS bolt so it had to be done exactly right.
I did a very detailed and accurate section view of the pinion, the washer, my bolt, and all items being squeezed, for the machinist. I expected too much from him. He incorrectly assumed the bolt head sits against the tip of the pinion, with the unthreaded portion of the bolt INSIDE the tapped hole.

He did a great job creating class 3B threads in there but they don`t begin until 1" deep! Only 7 threads are engaging when all items are in place and the bolt is torqued.

I`ll have to use a longer bolt now so It has me stopped until I get the $40 bolt.
 
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The clearance holes in all 4 drive flanges, for the Hi-Lok collars have been enlarged from 1/2" to 5/8".
The conical clamp washer now has a recess so the huge bolt head does not interfere
with the Morflex coupling.
 

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bryancobb;n1119546 said:
The clearance holes in all 4 drive flanges, for the Hi-Lok collars have been enlarged from 1/2" to 5/8".
The conical clamp washer now has a recess so the huge bolt head does not interfere
with the Morflex coupling.

The final solution has been nailed down. A modified MS20008 internal wrenching bolt and the O.D. of the rod-end washers was turned down to the same as the 1/4" spacers.
 
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It took almost 3 months for it to be manufactured but I finally received my super-precision aerospace grade FAG / INA Tapered Roller for the front of my pinion, right next to the gear. Now I can get my 25 Hour / Annual complete and get 500WW back in the air.
 

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I`m fine :). I just hate this NEW forum format and don`t come here as often.
 
HobbyCAD;n1121425 said:
Bryan, what's different with this one from the bearing you had?

Cheers, F.

With "superprecision" bearings, they just have tolerances that are tighter and more time is spent manufacturing them as close to "nominal" dimensions
on the print. A little rounder, the rollers sit more perfectly against the inner and outer races, and for me, a big difference is...the cage is made much more
precise and has no chance of rubbing that slim ring front spacer that was required.

The standard bearing probably would have worked fine for hundreds of hours but the cage would have continued to rub and shed fine powder and set off
the chip light. Sometimes this fine powder acts like wheel-chocks under the rollers and stops them from rolling momentarily.
 
I am having difficulty finding time to work on 500WW. Grass mow season is here and work at Meggitt is killing me!
 
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