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  • #16
    Thank you, Doug. Makes a lot more sense. The engine came with electric start on it already, but it sounds like I'm going to be replacing that with a recoil pull-starter. True, I could build it heavier and add a few niceties, but part of my passion for this project (besides the sheer joy of flying) is the engineering side. Would really like to meet my goal of UL weight, verified by the scales at a fly-in. That's the goal anyway. Am using an overhead control stick as well, which is significantly lighter than the more common "walking beam" type when you factor in all the rods, yoke, blocks and linkages. Tube and fabric tail. And if memory serves, you posted something about lighter wheels a while back, which I am interested in learning more about.

    The only "frill" I'm adding is a folding mast mechanism, which I'll be asking more about in another thread. SportCopter has a folding mast kit for sale but I haven't seen any engineering drawings for that yet.



    • #17
      If you go over 254lbs.........OMG ! You might get caught & you would be in big about it guys ?

      Check out Bear Perkins stuff.....Carb unification plate , SS exhaust springs, Exhaust stud kit, red fuel pills, Dual carb single air filter( no chrome cover ).

      Bung......threaded ports to screw in EGT sensors. They are at the proper distance from the piston for accurate reads.
      Happy Flying, Chris S.


      • #18
        Azusalite wheels are go-kart wheels made of nylon-reinforced plastic. The prototype Gyrobee used Ken Brock wheels, which were cast-aluminum go-kart wheels. The plastic ones are less elegant, but lighter. You need a 4" for the nosewheel and two 6" for the mains. Buy the better bearings.

        Azusalites must be used with tubes. The rim halves are soft enough that the seam between them tends to open up, allowing the tube to drop into the joint, get pinched and develop leaks. There's nothing worse than having your tube pinched.

        The solution is to make a shield by cutting a strip out of a plastic bleach bottle, wide enough to straddle the rim seam. Place it on one rim half, install the tube and tire, add the other rim half, bolt it up and inflate.


        • #19
          Originally posted by Doug Riley View Post
          ...There's nothing worse than having your tube pinched.
          That depends on by whom.

          Much obliged Doug on the wheel recommendation. In fact I'm keen on any recommendations for weight savings.

          Chris, I will examine the Y pipe tonight. Thanks for the clarification.

          Looks like tomorrow I am coming home with a car full of aluminum. A member here recommended a company called MetalSpermarkets and as luck would have it there's a warehouse not far from me. They're letting me come in on a Saturday and pick my own material. No worries about scratches and gouges during shipping. Happened to me before.


          • #20
            Quick question for the group: If I am removing the electric start from the new 503, would it have sufficient trade-value for a recoil pull-start system? I would imagine the elec starter might be worth more, but a trade for a like-new recoil unit/system would be OK.


            • #21
              Brian, my 503 can sit all winter & it will start on the 3rd pull....But I gotta do that standing up. I also use my ankle to brace the machine while I struggle to pull that rope. Good thing I don't bruise easily. Then I gotta hold her back while she warms up. Sometimes I'll shut her down & get my helmet & radio on but I can do that with her running. Wouldn't it be really cool to get in & buckle up , lift the visor on your heli helmet, & clearly yell out to the crowd that has assembled.....CLEAR !!! Then turn the key !

              Did you not know that you were getting an electric starter. What brand is that & how much do you want for it?

              Hey.....ultralight....254lbs , 5 gallons of gas, whats that 3rd thing again ????? If you bust one , you might as well bust em all. Do you know how many years I flew my FAT ultralight ?

              I wanted an ultralight, but I needed all those SAFETY features the the Government would deny us folks. Pilot Lives matter !

              I had the Red seat cover to prevent fatigue, Brakes to stop the machine, Prerotator to save my limbs & digits. Rotor brake....I ain't got the time for them things to stop on their own ! Then I got real crazy & got some instruments too ! But who needs them ? They are just a distraction like the radio!!!! You need to be looking for those guys in those fast planes that always say.."You're hard to see !"

              SELF PRESERVATION always come first, Right ?

              Get al least one good strobe light....they don't weigh much.

              I'm glad that you don't have to learn to fly it with just a short flight & a pat on the back......but I always respected that little machine. People think motorcycles are dangerous!

              Over the years, we lost alot of good people to this hobby. I might be next, only God knows !

              Flying my Single Seat gyro is about the most fun I can have with my clothes on(as they say) Thats why I am still doing it. For me it's seasonal too. Imagine having a heated cabin! I don't understand people that have no interest in them. That's why I am building a 2 place. So I can try to kill all my friends or maybe makes some new ones !

              But Brian, It's hard to beat a light machine for fun.....very forgiving ! Every time I land my Fat ultralight, I think "Who want's to land with alot of forward speed ?"

              Happy Flying, Chris S.


              • #22
                Originally posted by Brian Jackson View Post
                Quick question for the group: If I am removing the electric start from the new 503, would it have sufficient trade-value for a recoil pull-start system? I would imagine the elec starter might be worth more, but a trade for a like-new recoil unit/system would be OK.

                The GPL starters like what you have run about $550 for the basic kit:

                I would imagine you could sell it for half that, or I'm sure someone would be willing to do a straight up trade.
                Make sure you get all of the parts if you trade.

                A new pull starter assembly is almost $400.

                You may be able to find what you need on eBay. The snowmobile 447/532/503 is the same basic engine and the recoil assemblies should be the same, but I don't know for certain.
                Mike Gaspard
                Forum Administrator
                Kaplan, Louisiana
                Bensen B8MG, NX36MG


                • #23
                  Trying the icon for photo uploads. Let's see if this works better.

                  Food for thought. I'll elaborate in a later thread, only have a minute to post. I did add a photo of the Y-pipe you asked about and those sure look like the "bungs" you described.

                  Thanks for the links and heads up on relative value. Might have to contact Rotax Rick and see if he'll trade the elec start system for a recoil system. I would like to add an intake silencer, so maybe we can work out a fair trade.

                  I got the material this morning from Metal Supermarkets. I liked that the owner came in on a Saturday to let me pick my own stock. He didn't have the certs at the moment but is emailing them to me on Monday. I did not purchase the 1/8" wall 2X2 tubing because none of the stock had mill printing on the tubes. The owner is ordering a new batch with specs and I will pick them up when they arrive. Sorry, but I'm doing this by the book.

                  More later. Thanks.



                  • #24
                    Well Brian ?
                    Happy Flying, Chris S.


                    • #25
                      Metal prep before cutting and drilling. Removing all surface scratches and imperfections to eliminate stress points.


                      • #26
                        Maroon Scotch Brite with WD 40 gives a real nice brushed finish.


                        • #27
                          I've heard that Scotch Brite finishing looks nice. At this stage I'm only taking the surface down to the low point of the scratches. The final finish will be a 2-stage process, starting with a Bright-dip Copper Anodizing (think shiny penny), followed by a wrinkle-textured powder coat (deep blue) over the major surfaces. The raw 1/8" and 3/16" edges of all plates and angles are rouge-buffed to mirror smoothness just prior to the bright copper anodizing, and are tape masked before the powdercoat application. The end result should be quite visually stunning with the mirror copper accented edges.

                          Anodizing increases the surface hardness of the very outer layer of the material, so that's why I'm taking the extra steps to remove any scratches or dings.