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Rotax 582 EGT numbers

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  • #16
    Thanks!

    All is well that ends well.

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    • #17
      thanks

      บาคารา

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      • #18
        Just a little heads-up from my recent experience, even though it`s a little off-topic. Rotax says to only use spark plugs that have a non-removable top tip. I didn`t understand why and the screw-on
        BR8-ES was available at the local AutoZone. I deliberately fouled the threads and screwed the aluminum tips on with pliers.

        Well after 25 hours of flying,tiny sparks must have been occurring in the tiny gap BETWEEN THE THREADS which acted like EDM and eroded material. Two of my screw-on tips had no threads remaining
        and when I pulled the cap up off the plug, the aluminum screw-on stayed captive, up inside the cap.

        THIS COULD CAUSE YOUR ENGINE TO QUIT IN FLIGHT IF WIND JUST HAPPENED TO LIFT ALL FOUR CAPS OFF THE PLUGS. I will ALWAYS use solid tips as ROTAX directs.
        Bryan Cobb, Helicopter Enthusiast
        Mfg.Engineer., Composites, Meggitt Aerospace, Rockmart, GA

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        • #19
          Russ said :

          Recently I have encountered an odd problem with the EGT readings on my EIS for my Rotax 582. The EGT numbers run close for both cylinders at low RPM, but then diverge widely at higher RPM (see pics below). I am assuming (hoping) this is a faulty probe issue, and am planning to switch the probes between cylinders to test for this. Any other ideas, thoughts, coomentary?


          jean mi :

          Even if I am now flying regularly my 582 mono seat instead of diving, I remember what TOM MOUNT (the IANTD chaiman) was teaching us about deep mixed gaz diving " never assume anything", it helped me survive nasty dives and now that I am flying I always applied this .

          back to the 582 egt's many things can cause the gap beetween the 2 egt's displayed, in my case a regular 30/40 C gap is certainly caused by the difference in terms of pressure near the air intake in the 2 carbs that are placed one behind the other

          testing your probes deep-ping them into the same boiling water pot is a good idea that I have tested myself not to assume anything (it will at least tell you if they read equally , deep then deep in the pot and then wait 2 minutes just to leave all the water reaching the max temperature)

          keep in mind that you can't have 100C in the pot in most situations because of the changing air Atmos pressure according to altitude, air temperature etcetc

          you can cross validate your reading using a precision thermometer you will deep at the same place then the probes in the pot

          reversing the 2 probes in the exhausts pipes is also something you can do in order to see if it comes from the probes or from the carb

          I tend to think that as long as the 2 egt's are under 600C on all the RPM spectrum things are ok for me even if sometimes there is a gap btw the two

          view this video it will free your mind and find out there is no magic

          http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=2061022478001

          watch it and watch it again it is more then necessary to understand

          then tune your engine choosing your main jets, needle jets and jets needles until everything is OK, keeping in mind that running lean is the worst where running a little bit rich is never a big problem

          the standard jetting is not always the good one ... you have to try everything to lower the egt's before re jetting but once to have check everything ... thing about rejetting is order to avoid all lean mixture to get in your engine ...

          just my opinion and experience

          cheers

          Last edited by jm-urbani; 07-21-2017, 05:04 AM.

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