Ignition Problem

[tomhall]

Last evening, after pre-flight etc., I turned on my master switch, turned the key to RUN, the fuel pump cycled for a few seconds like it always does, I turned the key to START and heard nothing ! I repeated the process a couple of times and noticed the volt meter, at 12+ volts with the master on, did not even twitch as I turned the key to START. I have a RAF2000 with the 2.5 fuel injected Subaru and have Don Parham's wire harness. I am hoping the ingition switch is to blame; it was a basic automotive ignition and the key seems to stick or be loose at times. Any tips on troubleshooting ? Of course, there was blue sky, 70 degrees and 8 mph right down the runway last night ! Thanks Tom T. Hall in MN

[Aussie_Paul]

Tom, the first test is to remove all the spark plug wires and them with a screwdrive od sturdy piece of wire short the starter solenoid to the main battery positive post on the starter. The engine should turn over. If it does the problem is probably the switch.

Or you can remove the starter slenoid wire and place a multimeter of volt meter between that wire and earth. Yrun the key to start and see if 12 volts shows up on the meter.

Aussie Paul.

[tailrotor]

A lot of times the solonoid gets a little corrosion on the contacts. Sometimes a gentle wack up side the head of the solonoid while holding the switch to start is enough to free up things. if it kicks in the there is the problem and you can plan to replace it asap

Hope it Helps
Brian G. Douglas
Killeen Texas
A&P, PPSEL

[chuter]

Tom,

When you say "nothing" do you mean the starter doesn't crank? No clicking from the solenoid? Absolutely nothing?

Aussie Paul,

You said

If it does not the problem is probably the switch

Don't you mean if it DOES crank the problem is the switch, since what you did was bypass the switch?

[tomhall]

Only in the internet age can a guy get an instant response from a " stirrer & troublemaker " ( reformed ) from Australia and an A & P who says " whack it with a hammer " ! Thanks guys ! I'm hoping the trouble is near the front end or the back end and not in the computer or relays. Tom

[tomhall]

Michael, After the fuel pump cycles, ........ there is a deafening silence. Again, hoping the problem is direcly behind the key.

[Ron Marlett]

The key provides a low current power to the solenoid(relay) which engages the bendix to the ring gear and closes a high current contactor that powers the starter motor. The solenoid(attached to the starter motor) usually has 3 connections. A small wire connected to a small spade terminal is the input from the key. The other 2 connections are large. One is connected with a large gauge cable directly to the battery. The other(also large gauge) runs into the starter motor itself. Pauls suggestion takes the key switch and all the wireing out of the picture and only test's the starter. By providing 12V directly from the battery to the small terminal, the starter should engage and crank the engine. As he mentioned, remove the plug wires so the engine won't try to run, and don't get wacked by the prop when the engine cranks over. If the engine cranks over doing this, the probleml ies in the key or the wireing between the key and the engine/battery. If the starter dosn't crank during this test, it or the solenoid are most likley at fault.

Another test that dosn't crank the engine is to remove the small wire from the solenoid, connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to it and the negative lead to the engine block/ground. While watching the meter, turn the key to "START". If you have 12VDC on the meter when the ley is activated, the keycircuit is most likley OK and you can remove the starter/solenoid assembly for further testing.

[Aussie_Paul]

Originally Posted by chuter

Tom,

When you say "nothing" do you mean the starter doesn't crank? No clicking from the solenoid? Absolutely nothing?

Aussie Paul,

You said

Don't you mean if it DOES crank the problem is the switch, since what you did was bypass the switch?

Boy!! another mistake by Aussie Paul. Come on you Aussie bastards write it down!!!!!!

I have fixed the post. Thanks Michael.

Aussie Paul.

[chuter]

Paul, us old guys gotta watch out for each other, mad cow you know.

(does anybody watch Boston Legal? It's hilarious! That's where the mad cow reference came from)

No thread hijacking............back on track.

Tom, if you can bypass the switch right at the back of the switch, that would isolate it to the switch.

[rgraffeo]

Tom,
I've had the same problem happen several times. I have the EJ22, not sure if the stater is the same.
An old A&P told me to remove the back cover off the solenoid & use some electrical grease on the plunger. Mine was getting stuck.
The plunger gets pulled in to the two electrical contacts to engage the stater. Don't forget to disconnect the battery first.

[Aussie_Paul]

Originally Posted by rgraffeo

Tom,
I've had the same problem happen several times. I have the EJ22, not sure if the stater is the same.
An old A&P told me to remove the back cover off the solenoid & use some electrical grease on the plunger. Mine was getting stuck.
The plunger gets pulled in to the two electrical contacts to engage the stater. Don't forget to disconnect the battery first.

I had the same thing happen to a pre rotator starter moter last week. You can hear the solenoid clich in but the contacts don't engauge. The contacts wear quite a bit and can get grease on them as well. A quick fix to get home is to scrape the "gunk" (technical word) off the contacts.

When removing the plunger be very careful that the small, 1/4", ball bearing does not fall out.

Aussie Paul.

[Harry_S.]

I've had two problems with the starter in the past.

One was when the machine sat in the sun for about an hour after a flight. When I pushed the button...silence. Got out, felt of the starter and it was really hot. Got a cup of cold water and poured it over the starter case. Tapped the starter button and it cranked OK.

The other time, I pushed the machine out of the hangar after the pre-flight, got in, belted up etc., hit the starter button and silence. Got out felt of the starter case, it was cold. Got a plastic mallet and whacked the starter case a little, tapped the starter button and it cranked OK.


CFWMDF
Cheers

[REDHORSE556CES]

Originally Posted by tailrotor

A lot of times the solonoid gets a little corrosion on the contacts. Sometimes a gentle wack up side the head of the solonoid while holding the switch to start is enough to free up things. if it kicks in the there is the problem and you can plan to replace it asap

Hope it Helps
Brian G. Douglas
Killeen Texas
A&P, PPSEL

Be careful in whacking. If it's one of the new-fangled starters, it has ceramic windings. Whacking be done with caution lest you crack those windings. (I know from personal experience......and DON'T ASK!!!)