Restoring a Bensen, where to Start?

[Xorandor]

Okay for anybody interested in giving advice, I'd greatly appreciate any oppinion on what I should do first.

[Rando]

I hate to say it but I think you just have a bunch of scrap metal. I wouldn't waste my time or money trying to restore it to flying condition. Sorry but it is just my opinion.

[GyroRon]

I would send off the rotorhead to someone to have it rebuilt.

Try to see if there is a way to send off and have the control assembly rebuilt - the stick and bars under the seat. Then go buy some new aluminum tubes and new hardware and replicate the parts that you have now, and when done turn the old airframe into scrap and make a nice decoration out of it.

The engine.... Don't know what to say, I wouldn't even begin to mess with it. I would try to find a VW or Subaru and make a direct drive gyro out of it.

You need to join the Sunstate Rotor club - PRA chapter 26. They meet in Labelle Florida once a month - the President and her Husband both post here! - and get with them for help. This restoration job is easier than it seems and there is plenty of gyro people in Florida that could help you. Herman Yates is close to you, Sunstate could put you in touch with him. He could certainly help you with your project.

Wasn't this gyro on E bay recently?

[Brian Jackson]

I'm not a gyro pilot yet, but I am building one currently, and will fly it after training. I agree with the posts above... I wouldn't trust anything with that much corrosion and dings/pits. 6061-T6 Aluminum is cheap. Recreate the parts fresh. You have no way of knowing how stressed the existing parts are. Simply sanding them down and making them look pretty again won't affect their metalurgical qualities at all. From those photos, that gyro was dead and burried long ago. Don't resurrect it, unless you'd like to share the same grave.

My opinion for what it's worth.

Brian Jackson

[Brian Jackson]

Just noticed... There's a ton of button-head "flathead screwdriver" bolts going through the whole control rod end assembly. That just seems wrong on so many levels... it can't be right, can it?

[Xorandor]

And I feel like a total sucker, but you got to start somewhere. What looks like corrosion is actually old pieces of tape. The rotor head spins freely and there is no play in the bearing. The control assembly is a different story it does need rebuilding, but it appears to be made of fairly common items. The frame is basically 3 primary pieces joined with braces and triangular cuts of aluminum. I suppose it would not be too difficult to replicate any of it. I do believe the motor is trash. From what I've read it is only rated at 50 hours between rebuilds. It a military drone engine. There is one just like it on eBay right now. Thanks for your honest opinions.

[gyromike]

Robert,

Don't feel too bad.
Many of us have been in the same position.

The rotor head can be rebuilt, provided there's no serious corrosion. Ken Brock Manufacturing can take care of that. They can also rebuild the stick assy., since it's one of theirs.

You can get the frame materials from Wicks Aircraft, and new AN hardware to bolt it together.

The problem you'll find trying to rebuild something like that is that you don't know how well the builder drilled everything out. You may drill out a perfect frame, and then find that the secondary structures won't match the new frame (boom won't align with the holes, or the axle blocks won't fit, etc.).

Then again, if it was assembled from the Bensen kit (predrilled, precut), the chances are good that replacement pieces will fall into place. But you won't know until you take it apart, and compare hole placement with a set of plans.

This probably isn't what you want to hear. Sorry, but I've been there.

The Mac engine can be rebuilt to run very well, and to have a long life. Ron Herron ran one for years on his Bensen and then mounted it on his first Little Wing. With a good rebuild and one of Rick Whittridge's CDI conversions, it'll have good power and reliability. I have one of his CDI's, and it has made a world of difference.

Hope this helps.

[Screw]

Screw-In

I agree with N503R. Too much to do, and would probably be cheaper in the long run starting fresh with a new parts from Ken Brock MFG.

Screw-Out

[Friendly]

If it were a car, I would say "jack up the radiator cap and drive a new one under it." just picking. If you really want to rebuild it you are going to have to disassemble it. polish off the aluminum at least partially, and let someone in a club near you give you some guidence. I like the Mac engine as well and I have recently purchased Ricks CDI as Mike did. If the engine can be rebuilt without too much money you may not have done so bad after all. You made a big step to get involved. Hang in there. and get the help of some local club members. By the way. that was some great shots and web layout. Good luck and keep us posted as you go along what ever you decide to do.

[Friendly]

Did you get rotorblades with the gyro?

[Xorandor]

I'm lookin at some from Vortech. Or if any body has a used set?

[Xorandor]

Well guys, I took the whole thing apart today and got to do a pretty good inspection at the same time. I don't see any corrosion. I dissambled the entire controll system and disscovered a bushing missing and the others need replacing, but all in all the holes are still round (Not worn into elipses) and all the pieces are whole. I'm hessitaint to dissemble the rotor head, it seems fine to me, perhaps if I had it inspected first. I bought replacement bolts,nuts and washers from ace (Grade A). It'll be awhile before I need them though. Guess that's all thanks again.

[GyroRon]

Ace hardware store bolts are not the best way to go. All the old tubing is cheap enough it is worth replacing. The rotorhead should certainly be took apart and cleaned and all new AN hardware and new bearing put back in. I would have it manafluxed while apart too.

No offense but it sounds like you are looking for the cheapest way in the air. Do not cut corners bro! It is your ass up there riding on cheap bolts, old tubes, old rotorhead, old rusted steel controls etc....

Like I said 2-400$ in new aluminum, 200$ in new AN aircraft grade hardware, and some time and you will have a new gyro.

[Xorandor]

Upon closer inspection I can see the ACE stuff isn't the same. I don't know how to decipher it yet but the markings on the top of the bolts don't match. I now have sources for AN hardware thank guys. It's not that I'm being cheep (although money is a factor) it's just if I can establish that what's there is just fine, why replace it? Where your strategies seem to be, if in doubt throw it out. If I can't verify a components functionality/reliability I'll have to replace it.

[ToddP]

Xorander,

I hope you'll take the time to join a local PRA chapter and get some local assistance. The people in this forum will offer endless assitance and advice. Everyone has the best intentions and your safety in mind. There are places to save money on a gyro. YOu can find good deals on engines, instruments and other parts on e-bay. However saving money on structural components and hardware is a recipe for disaster.

Good Luck