New Hornet(s) in the works!

[Resasi]

Grappling a bit here, late and not sure what I have managed to upload so forgive me if I have duplicated or given something totally unrelated.

I think that the fact that you have done some work and are presenting the W&B info would be sufficient, however a given from your work it would be as good as it could be, ie, perfect.

I was lazy, wanted to change the silhouette of the Magni to that of a Hornet on our sheet but never got round to that. Our cheek plates/hang angle though worked out well.

[scottessex]

Great work, very very nice... If I remember correctly the probe is mounted 100mm from the PISTON SKIRT, I will double check.
Yes the regulator is a heat sink, and I have seen them mounted all sorts of different ways, and they all seem to work OK, I do not think that will be a problem.

[multimike]

Leigh, I have to agree with Denis' comment about your Hornet build. I have referred to your build thread and took away many ideas that have helped me. As a matter of fact, I can say that about all the build threads here on the forum. Whether we build a "silk purse" or a "sow's ear" of a gyroplane, it says a lot about a person's character and determination to build and then fly one's own creation. A relatively few people learn to fly, fewer still build an aircraft, and only a handful build and fly their own gyroplane! I can't think of a more exclusive club that you're in!
Mike

[choppergabor]

Just amazing workmanship. Good on you not trying to please everyone. Build what YOU want (that was my motto with the Behemoth) I love to watch your progress. Thanks for sharing Denis.

[robo_nipsy]

Thanks Guys! Much appreciated.

Scott,
I'll probably proceed with that 100 mm mounting position (from the skirt) for the EGT probes within the next week if I don't hear otherwise.
Thanks again.

Leigh,
Thank YOU! This is exactly what I was looking for!
I can use this format to develop my own W& B sheets now! Perfect.

Monday is here...Gonna be a busy week....Looks like the Hornet is on hold for a few days..

Next week...Prerotator parts!!

d

[Resasi]

Glad that was what you want Dennis, delighted to be able to help.

Look forward to seeing your prerotator go in.

[gyrojake]

Denis, that thing is looking better every time I look at it.

Your regulator rectifier heatsink is only good for 15 watts in open air.
12 volts x 1 amp = 12 watts.
It takes 1 amp to activate your regulator.
I would mount it were it could transfer the heat.
Being rough on the back will enable the devise to hold heatsink compound and you can get that at radioshack real cheap.
Volts times current will give you watts.
If your use exceeds 15 watts ,again I would mount it to something that will help dissipate the heat.
~~JAKE~~

[scottessex]

Yep I just checked 100mm from the skirt, here is an article explaining and showing where to drill.


http://www.ultralightnews.ca/exhaust...belocation.htm

Rotax Exhaust Gas Probe Positions

The manual description of where to drill the EGT probe holes is vague to say the least. The result is that in a lot of circumstances the readings tend to be on the high side even though the engine running condition is correct.

Rotax simply define the location of the sensor's probe as being 100 mm from the piston Rotax exhaust gas probe location, Rotax EGT probe location.skirt which is fine so long as you can relate that information to the exhaust tract as a whole.

The first illustration shows the distance from the piston skirt to the manifold mounting face including the compressed gasket which is 59.50mm for a 582 engine. Jhe remaining 41.50mm is within the manifold itself so therefore the positioning of the probe hole is important to ensure reliable indications.

Too far downstream of the correct location will result in higher readings and likewise too close to the piston will yield lower readings. Think of it in terms of a welders gas flame where the hottest part just beyond the blue tip and the coolest inside the cone.

Lay the manifold so that the welded flange is parallel to the work surface. Cut two pieces of thin aluminium cut to the dimensions of the flange faces and mark their exact centers in each plane. Tape these to each mounting flange. Mark a line on each of the manifold branches exactly 38.00mm back toward the ball junction and parallel to the welded flanges. Next mark a line exactly half way across each of the branches. Where the lines intersect is the positions of the probe tips.

Because the flange faces are welded onto the branches at an angle the position will be different dependent on which face the probes will be mounted. It is important to remember therefore that the spots indicate where the tip should lie and it will be necessary to place packing washers under the mounting bands to adjust the insertion of each probe.

If the tips lie closer to one wall then again there will be errors in readings.

The manifold is now predrilled and has two threaded bosses to accept the probes which eliminates entirely the problem but the 582 manifold is shared by other engine types and therefore it is up to the installer to position the probes correctly.

After the band clips have been formed and tightened then wrap a length of safety wire over the bands just in case they break allowing the probe to exit the holes from vibration.

Finally because the probes are hot junction types ensure the braided cables are kept out of direct airflow and are not secured to "cold" attachments because again readings will be affected.

Where it is necessary to to make an attachment to a cold surface insulate the cables with plastic sleeving.

Graham Laught, UKAvid
http://www.sportflight.com/kfb/howto.htm

[robo_nipsy]

Thanks guys!

Scott,
Thanks for digging up the EGT mounting info!
Very much appreciated!

Jake,
I thought that this Key West Regulator did not require the 1 amp dummy load to operate???
I'll look into that more, but still, your thought of a heat sink is a good idea. I'll put something together for that later.

I have made some progress on the prerotator design and build, but I decided to first finish up a little more on my control system.

Sitting in the gyro, with the rubber grip in hand, I held it at what seemed to be the most comfortable position for me. I had my forearm resting across my thigh.
The grip orientation was about 35° tilted forward. the top of the grip was parallel with the bottom of my instrument pod, and 6 1/2" Back.
I updated this position in my computer model and proceed to make some parts...
First, what I call the "knuckle" joining plates.....



Then, onto bending the cyclic tube...
I have this bender that I made a while ago for bending some 3/4" tube, but now I had to make some new dies to fit some 1" tube.
The tubing will be bent to a 5" radius measured at the center line of the tube.

Here is the a close up of the bender..





The tubing is 1" dia x 1/8" wall 6061-t6.
I really had to lean into it, even with a long cheater tube on the bender arm, but it worked VERY well!

You can see I had the bender mounted in a vise on one of the mills....
First, I tried to mount it in a vise mounted to a work table, but I just turned the table in circles on the floor....I needed a little more weight!!





I know some people are not fans of the up and down motion of the "pump handle" style control system, but I think it feels very natural.


I still need to add some type of brake system to my machine, so sadly, the knuckle plates or such will probably need to be modified in the future to accommodate my brake handle lever........
(the bolts are temporary)





When drawing the tube with the 5" bend radius, I must admit, that this was just a wild guess, but I think it turned out very well.
The material seemed to yield to this shape just fine, (With a little encouragement) but if I would had tried to reduce the diameter any more, I would then be worried about seriously damaging the material properties of the tubing.

Another step closer!!

[Resasi]

Looks good Dennis, and very similar to what I have on the Bensen. Our Hornet stick was a bit more work, but I think looks rather cool.

We took quite a bit of time over the stick with the Hornet and did mock up with plastic tubing first to get all the lengths and angles right. As you say the natural position was level flight with right wrist over and resting on the right thigh around mid position.

Having had a weak brake system on the Bensen I initially trained on I was determined to have decent brakes on our Hornet and went with the Black Max system. That has worked out well for us and I really like the disc brakes, size of wheels, and the ability to have the hydraulic valve shut-off/parking brake. The brake squeeze lever on the stick angled 45* to the left

Try and get the split rims if you do go this way as it makes tire changing much easier. The cheap 2ply Chinese tires wear out very quickly and we ended up getting much thicker ones from somewhere else which seem to be holding out much better.

[RotoPlane]

I too drool over your pictures Denis….your workmanship and attention to detail is just outstanding! I find myself wishing you were closer to my area….I'd be tying to cajole you into machining parts for me . My dad was an Industrial Arts teacher with many 1st place entry's at Ohio State…and I know he would've also loved to have seen your workmanship.

[gyrojake]

I hope that stick is not 6063 or 6364 anodized aluminum. If it is it work hardens very fast and snaps. If not, what alloy is it? Beautiful job on bending.I also like the bracket.

Jake

[All_In]

Excellent work Dennis!!

[Jazzenjohn]

Denis, you haven't posted any build pictures in 2 weeks, I'm Jonesin' here man, I got a monkey on my back, I need my Fix... Help a brother out... Hook me up...

[robo_nipsy]

John,
I feel so badly knowing that I am the reason for your withdrawals!
Well, I just can't have that on my conscience!!
Here ya go buddy!

Here is the direction I am going with my prerotator....
I'll start out with some CAD shots to show how it started...

I knew I wanted to go with a belt drive system mounted off of the B Box...
I searched high and low for some drawings of the 503 to locate my mounting brackets... I found very little.

I wanted to make sure that my design was perfectly parallel to and concentric with the output shaft on the B Box....So I proceeded to measure and draw everything up.... (Yes, I am that pathetically engrossed into this project!)

I was mostly concerned in getting the correct locations in regards to the bolts and mounting surfaces I have highlighted in this screen shot...



Here is a couple more showing some other views...







I decided to go with a polyvee belt to get some good torque transfer.
I wanted to make sure that there was no drag of the belt while the prerotator was not in use...
You can see in this picture the 1/4" retainer studs around the perimeter of the belt in it's relaxed state.
Just below and to the left of the tensioner roller, you can see an additional retainer stud. This one is connected to the swing arm that the tensioner pulley is mounted to. Due to the location of this stud and the arc motion of the tensioner swing arm, this stud is well inside and clear of the belt while the prerotator is engaged.When the tensioner is disengaged, as show in the picture, the belt actually gets somewhat pinched between the pulley and this stud, and pulls the belt outwards towards these other perimeter studs. It took me a while to get this laid out, but I think I have it pretty close...
(My vendor who supplied me with this belt told me wrong...He said that Polyvee belts are measured around the outside of the belt...Not true, I determined that the length is actually measured at the pitch line of the belt)

I should have about .100" clearance between the belt and the main drive drum when the prerotator is not being used.