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#31
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Don, thanks again for the drawings.
Progress is slow for me right now, & I have got some questions as far as preparing my 2.5 for mounting. I will be posting them soon.
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Happy Flying, Chris S. |
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#32
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Chris,
I will look in my extra parts boxes as I think I have an 30 amp alternator bracket for a 2.5. I should be home next week and will look if you still need one. If I remember correct, I had to replace the bracket to upgrade to the 100 amp. Let me know if you still need one.
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"Brandon |
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#33
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Hey Brandon, thanks but Dan from Groen Bros was nice enough to hook me up with the alternator bracket for the alternator that I got from Stan Foster.(35amp).
But I have alot of questions regarding stuff like the heater hose lines on the engine & fuel lines & such. Pics would be great. BTW.....how different were the brackets ?
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Happy Flying, Chris S. |
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#34
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Chris,
The steel heater lines near the bell housing need to be connected together with a "U" shaped hose. If the heater lines are plugged off the engine will overheat.
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Don Parham RFI Power Systems |
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#35
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Don, thanks. I knew I needed to hook them together but.....I don't want the 2 steel lines pointing to the rear.
I was hoping to buy, instead of make, a steel line that points towards the front of the engine & then run hose from there down to the upper thermostat housing nipple. Thereby eliminating the black steel line that also has another small branch coming from it. I want to eliminate all unused ports & lugs. I was considering using a plastic intake.....do you think it could work out ? Don I also need to replace the plug with hose connection on the bottom of the left head that fed the oil cooler.......do you have one or know where to get one ?
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Happy Flying, Chris S. |
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#36
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AUTOFLIGHT motor mounts are on the way !
I have an alternator mount. EA81 still on machine, I hate to take it off. Still gathering parts.
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Happy Flying, Chris S. |
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#37
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EA81 is off & I am starting to get the 2.5 ready to drop on.
Pictures to follow soon.
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Happy Flying, Chris S. |
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#38
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The original setup that I got from Air Command was designed for the EJ series. I just adapted it to work for the EA81.
So after all this goofing around I decided to bolt on the original rails . This looks like the easiest way for me to go. The flat straps ,that are rubber mounted, will be remade out of 3/4" thick material, insted of 1/2". The oil filter will be relocated so that it can fit/ be changed. The motor will be moved as far forward as possible & if the height needs to be changed, I will do that with the standup spacers. The rails that I used on the EA81 had 3 standup spacers, but this is not possible on the EJ. 3 spacers made the straps very rigid. With only 2 spacers on this heavier engine, the straps are flexing(not good!) I will be drilling & tapping the redrive lugs so that the rails will bolt to the engine/redrive with 4 bolts(2 on each side). Then the rails will bolt to the isolated straps with 2 spacers & bolts on each side. The rails will extend out the rear to mount the lower prerotator unit just like the old setup. Even with the motor in its current location, the weight needed to push the nosewheel down is very little. So I hope to not have to change the axle location which would mean having to relocate the shock tubes. My main concerns are to have a strong enough mount for the power of this engine, & I am not sure if this mounting will be enough. I may need to add other supports like the RAF/SH use over the top of the engine. I had the owner of the machine shop come to the garage yesterday so he could see what was going on here & the material has been ordered. Now with the engine in place I can install the alternator & intake & start looking ahead to see what other things I will need to do. FUN, FUN, FUN !!!! Look at the size of that new engine !!!! With the Delta cams, DO YOU THINK THIS WILL BE ENOUGH POWER ?
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Happy Flying, Chris S. Last edited by CLS447; 06-05-2008 at 01:37 AM. |
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#39
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Looking good Chris.that puppy should get ya in the air with power to spare.
keep us posted.
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Animal, Tim Heilig : Biker/student pilot , owner- restorer - 1968 Helicom Commuter H1B N814S PRA # 41670 Restore thread located at http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22141 see it hovering at Commuter H 1B hovers - YouTube Flying a helicopter- the most fun you can have with your hand between your legs and not go blind |
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#40
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Hey Tim, thanks & I will keep you all posted.
Things should get going now! Don Parham...............you know what after reviewing my collection of photos, I noticed that others with similar machines had their axles mounted on the rear of the bottom cluster plates with the shock tubes connected to the mast. Mine have always been about 4" behind that point...............so you could say my axles are already moved ! It is really interesting to see the different configurations of the "same" machine. Let me see if I can attach some..............
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Happy Flying, Chris S. |
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#41
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OK... this is where I am at with the engine install...
I am going to try to use the radiator that I have already installed for the old engine. So to give me a little more room for the hose connections & other reasons I have moved the upper shock tube mounting points outward. This has increased the amount of "rock" . I may shorten the tubes to level the axles. I have stripped everything off of the intake so I can get it powder coated. I will also be coating the waterway. I also extracted the tube from the end of the waterway & I will thread it to accept a threaded fitting to eliminate those ugly steel heater hose lines protruding from the rear of the motor, that have to get looped together. I believe I have found the air induction fitting & filter that I will be ordering. Basically it will be a K&N filter attached to the MAFS(mass air flow sensor)with an aluminum 90 attached to the throttle body. Got a new tire for the scooter & front one is on the way(Michelin Boppers)
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Happy Flying, Chris S. |
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#42
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Lookin good!
Make sure you have a good way to tap out any air in the coolant. EJ's are very picky about no air. .
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"The exhilaration of flying is too keen, the pleasure too great, for it to be neglected as a sport"— Orville Wright Tim OConnor, CFI, Commercial Pilot Rotorcraft, Sport Pilot Fixed Wing, FAA Advanced Ground Instructor:.. ![]() PRA Member #38872, You CAN Afford to FLY ! --> http://www.YouCanAffordToBeAPilot.com Rotorcraft 11,000 file archive |
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#43
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Chris: Another thing. Make sure your radiator cap seals correctly. I went through over a year of water burping out.....trying all kinds of fixes....
when after these fixes...it started doing it again....all finally traced down to my radiator cap. I had tried several caps during that year of trouble...and it wasnt until I was spouting out water in the overflow once again...that I was just disamayed about the whole system. Something just clicked in my head to check the seating depth of that radiator cap. I measured it out of the filler neck...measured the depth of the filler neck and said.."hmmmm". I went down to NAPA and picked up another cap ..same number...same dimensions. The extended spring length on that cap J-U-S-T equalled the measured depth of the overflow. The NAPA guy let me just research various caps...and I found one that had another 1/8 inch seating depth to it. The spring would actually be exerting some sealing pressure. Long story shortened....end of problems. I had received all kinds of excellent advice here...but in the end...none worked for me. I bet to this day had I discovered that improper cap...filler neck combo from my initial startup...I would have never had all those incidences of spouting out water....my Stanley Steamer thread....and all. Live and learn! Stan
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PPSEL airplane/helicopter Helicopters turn air into their runway. Got kerosene? www.stansstairways.com |
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#44
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UPDATE.................
Well I got some real nice intake components at Pep Boys. Spectre makes some air induction tubes & couplings. I will be using the stock MAFS with cone style air filter & chrome 3" air tubes with red couplings. Looks like it will work out nice! The intake barely fit in my blasting cabinet & did not fit in my oven, so I took it out to have it done(powder coated) The mounting rails are back at the machine shop for some drilling & tapping. Then once the holes are located, I can have the redrive lugs drilled & tapped. Then the motor is just about fully mounted. Then things can get moving. My wiring harness is missing the O2 sensor sub harness & I will have to order that from the Subaru dealer. I also need an O2 sensor. I called Tech welding & he says that since the Terry Eiland crash he no longer makes exhausts! (what does that have to do with anything ?) So I don't know what to do about an exhaust system. My oil filter relocation kit looks like it will work out great! Since my intake is not flipped around(stock) The stock throttle linkage & brackets will work for me. I just need to find a good cable with proper barrel end . I will be connecting to the same radiator. I hope it is big enough! Then I can figure out the prerotator mounting & mount the IVO magnum. Then I can see what I will have to do with the upper tail boom to clear the 70" prop. I will need a new tach & I can remove my carb temp gauge. Then I can start the tedious task of the computer wiring & install the new fuel pumps & plumbing. What other SxS open frame gyros are available ?
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Happy Flying, Chris S. Last edited by CLS447; 07-23-2008 at 01:21 AM. |
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#45
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Looking good Chris! You might try here for an exhaust. http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/oem_lsa.html
__________________
"Brandon |
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