My Engine

Dirtydog - Yeah, I get mixed up easily. Anyway, the 8.8 Lowe's bolts I mentioned are the metric engine attach bolts--you must've been referring to the AN6 mount bolts. And the hole size I was interested in what people used were the ones for the metric bolts.

A bright spot: I just got an email fm onlinemetals.com--they're very apologetic about their screwup and will be whipping out the correct metal (hopefully) to me. It only took them 2 days last time. I might be able to saw some metal by the end of the week. Still waiting for the Barry mounts fm Wicks.
 
My Engine

This post is just to display the only known image of a disassembled Barry 22001 mount. Plus, something interesting I got at Lowe's today--wave washers. I've never heard of them before. Sort of a cross between a standard lock washer and a normal flat washer. I may use them, with Loctite, with the 10mm engine-attach bolts to save space between engine bearers.
 

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I don't think those washers are intended to be replacements for lock washers. IE: Belleville washers. Those are to fit a round part, such as, a pipe section of a swing set or gate post.

IMHO, you would be better off with just a hardened flat washer.
 
Papa - Yeah, I think I know the applications you mean. Thanks. Oh, well. Maybe I'll use the wave washers under the lock washers--they're thinner than the standard flat washers.
 
treaze :
The bolt size that I used equals out to a AN6-27 on the left size and a AN6-31 for the right side with the fuel pump attached.

How much for them at LOWE'S ?
Do they have the metal sleeve also in the center?
Any colored paint to tell how tough the rubber is?
 
Dirtydog - Thanks for the bolt info. If you're asking about my mounts, I got them at Wicks--Barry 22001-12's. With the white/yellow paint and the sleeve.
 
Treaz
Just for your info. Metric 8.8 rated bolts are SAE grade 5 equivalent. Metric 10.9 are SAE grade 8 equivalent. Good luck with your Engine Mount.

Ed
 
You would be better off with a large area flat washer and a a locknut, or castle nut and coter pin.
 
My Engine

Edypaul - Oops! And thanks! I don't know anything about this, so I was just going by Ralph's instructions for the metric engine-install bolts: "The bolts should be either stainless or Grade 8...Do not use either Grade 5 or ungraded bolts." Was he confused then, mixing up metric and SAE? And funny you should bring this up--see pic. I just drilled thru the head (marked 8.8) of one of my bolts to see if I could do that, to safetywire instead of using a lockwasher and Loctite. 1/16" bit, .032" ss safetywire. No doubt that weakens the bolt, but by a trivial amount? Are drilled-head bolts built any different than undrilled-head bolts?

Scottessex - We're talking about the bolts that attach the engine to the upper bearers, so there's no opportunity to use nuts.
 

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Treaze

Stainless would not be a good choice. Stainless is not as strong as a Grade 8 bolt and stainless has some fatigue issues. Drilling a bolt head should not be an issue.

Ed
 
Gotcha, Yes drilling the head will not compromise strength.
The 10.9 bolts should be the ticket.
 
I've just been doing my research, and I am forced to admit that SAE Grade 8 is indeed equivalent to Grade 10.9 metric. What'll you bet they'll be almost impossible to find? Does anybody have a good source for these?
 
Look up "fasteners", there are warehouses all over the place. Got to be one near you.
 
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I received my replacement piece of aluminum for the engine bearers from onlinemetals.com today ( 2-day air from Seattle), and would you believe they screwed this one up, too? Unbelievable! They sent 1/2" instead of 3/8". So here we go for Try #3. They probably think I'm scamming them.

I checked around locally today for some Grade 10.9 M10-1.5-30 metric bolts, and I was reminded why I've been shopping online for stuff. I ended up ordering the bolts from a place called boltdepot.com. I hope Ralph was correct about those bolts--I guess I won't know until I get my engine.
 
I hope it is not too late, but Fastenall and McMaster Carr are two good places to find
fasteners, and McMaster has a fair selection of aluminum in the 6061t-6 grades.
Online metals is a good source also, I guess if they send the right stuff. :)
 
Treaze & scottessex :
I have found out that with Onlinemetals.com you have to let them know " I don't want any kind of metal but 6061-6T aluminum". If not they will not ask what kind they just fill the order. I found that out when I wanted some 1" x 2" x .125 6061-6T aluminum.....I got 6063 when I called up they said oh we don't carry that in 6061-6T only 6063 Sorry but we will credit your account.
 
Scottessex - Thanks for the tips. I just bookmarked Fastenal--it looks like a good site. I've bot several things fm McMaster-Carr over the years, but I guess I hadn't thought to try them for fasteners or aluminum. Yesterday, I ordered some conical grinder wheels from them to shape the chamfers on my 3/4" holes.
Dirtydog - From our experiences, it sounds like onlinemetals is a pretty sloppy outfit. They shipped off their 3rd try to fill my order correctly yesterday. I hope the 3rd time is a charm.
 
My Engine

I regret to report that I screwed up my bearers--I mixed up which ones get the 3/4" holes and which ones get the 3/8" holes. Aaauuuugh! What a waste! So I had to put in another order to onlinemetals.com for a replacement hunk of 3/8"x2" bar to start all over with. But before I stooped to do that, I made them claim that all their screwups with my first order were extremely rare. We shall see. In the meantime, my Grade 10.9 10mm bolts from boltdepot.com arrived , so I drilled their heads for safety wire today. Pic is of a couple of very handy tools--a Unibit for accurately enlarging pilot holes to what you want without the risk of going off center, and the grinder thing from McMaster-Carr that I used for making the chamfer on the 3/4" holes.
 

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I love UniBits especially for thin sheet metal.
Don't feel bad Treaze. Most of us have spent a whole day making
a piece of scrap. :)
 
Yeah, I'm getting used to the feeling. First, it was the mast that I had to do over, then I screwed up part of my vert stab that I had to replace, now this. Ha, it's really hard to feel cocky building something like this. There's a huge learning curve involved, etc.

Btw, a valuable technique I stumbled upon recently: Before I found the Unibit, I was enlarging a 3/8" hole up towards 3/4", and my 1/2" bit bit into the edge so hard that it moved my bearer under clamp and resulted in a very off-center hole. I fixed it by using a practice 3/4" hole I had already drilled in another piece of metal. I overlaid the practice hole over where I needed it to be in my bearer, clamped the hell out of it, and then very carefully and slowly worked my 3/4" bit down into the off-center hole through the guiding practice hole. It worked! I was amazed.
 
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