Restoring a Bensen, where to Start?

Xorandor

PRA Member #40842
Joined
Dec 1, 2004
Messages
59
Location
Orlando
Okay for anybody interested in giving advice, I'd greatly appreciate any oppinion on what I should do first.
 
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I hate to say it but I think you just have a bunch of scrap metal. I wouldn't waste my time or money trying to restore it to flying condition. Sorry but it is just my opinion. :(
 
I would send off the rotorhead to someone to have it rebuilt.

Try to see if there is a way to send off and have the control assembly rebuilt - the stick and bars under the seat. Then go buy some new aluminum tubes and new hardware and replicate the parts that you have now, and when done turn the old airframe into scrap and make a nice decoration out of it.

The engine.... Don't know what to say, I wouldn't even begin to mess with it. I would try to find a VW or Subaru and make a direct drive gyro out of it.

You need to join the Sunstate Rotor club - PRA chapter 26. They meet in Labelle Florida once a month - the President and her Husband both post here! ;) - and get with them for help. This restoration job is easier than it seems and there is plenty of gyro people in Florida that could help you. Herman Yates is close to you, Sunstate could put you in touch with him. He could certainly help you with your project.

Wasn't this gyro on E bay recently?
 
I'm not a gyro pilot yet, but I am building one currently, and will fly it after training. I agree with the posts above... I wouldn't trust anything with that much corrosion and dings/pits. 6061-T6 Aluminum is cheap. Recreate the parts fresh. You have no way of knowing how stressed the existing parts are. Simply sanding them down and making them look pretty again won't affect their metalurgical qualities at all. From those photos, that gyro was dead and burried long ago. Don't resurrect it, unless you'd like to share the same grave.

My opinion for what it's worth.

Brian Jackson
 
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Just noticed... There's a ton of button-head "flathead screwdriver" bolts going through the whole control rod end assembly. That just seems wrong on so many levels... it can't be right, can it?
 
Yes it was on Ebay

Yes it was on Ebay

And I feel like a total sucker, but you got to start somewhere. What looks like corrosion is actually old pieces of tape. The rotor head spins freely and there is no play in the bearing. The control assembly is a different story it does need rebuilding, but it appears to be made of fairly common items. The frame is basically 3 primary pieces joined with braces and triangular cuts of aluminum. I suppose it would not be too difficult to replicate any of it. I do believe the motor is trash. From what I've read it is only rated at 50 hours between rebuilds. It a military drone engine. There is one just like it on eBay right now. Thanks for your honest opinions.
 
Robert,

Don't feel too bad.
Many of us have been in the same position.

The rotor head can be rebuilt, provided there's no serious corrosion. Ken Brock Manufacturing can take care of that. They can also rebuild the stick assy., since it's one of theirs.

You can get the frame materials from Wicks Aircraft, and new AN hardware to bolt it together.

The problem you'll find trying to rebuild something like that is that you don't know how well the builder drilled everything out. You may drill out a perfect frame, and then find that the secondary structures won't match the new frame (boom won't align with the holes, or the axle blocks won't fit, etc.).

Then again, if it was assembled from the Bensen kit (predrilled, precut), the chances are good that replacement pieces will fall into place. But you won't know until you take it apart, and compare hole placement with a set of plans.

This probably isn't what you want to hear. Sorry, but I've been there.

The Mac engine can be rebuilt to run very well, and to have a long life. Ron Herron ran one for years on his Bensen and then mounted it on his first Little Wing. With a good rebuild and one of Rick Whittridge's CDI conversions, it'll have good power and reliability. I have one of his CDI's, and it has made a world of difference.

Hope this helps.
 
Screw-In

I agree with N503R. Too much to do, and would probably be cheaper in the long run starting fresh with a new parts from Ken Brock MFG.

Screw-Out
 
If it were a car, I would say "jack up the radiator cap and drive a new one under it." just picking. If you really want to rebuild it you are going to have to disassemble it. polish off the aluminum at least partially, and let someone in a club near you give you some guidence. I like the Mac engine as well and I have recently purchased Ricks CDI as Mike did. If the engine can be rebuilt without too much money you may not have done so bad after all. You made a big step to get involved. Hang in there. and get the help of some local club members. By the way. that was some great shots and web layout. Good luck and keep us posted as you go along what ever you decide to do.
 
No I didn't get any blades.

No I didn't get any blades.

I'm lookin at some from Vortech. Or if any body has a used set?
 
Well guys, I took the whole thing apart today and got to do a pretty good inspection at the same time. I don't see any corrosion. I dissambled the entire controll system and disscovered a bushing missing and the others need replacing, but all in all the holes are still round (Not worn into elipses) and all the pieces are whole. I'm hessitaint to dissemble the rotor head, it seems fine to me, perhaps if I had it inspected first. I bought replacement bolts,nuts and washers from ace (Grade A). It'll be awhile before I need them though. Guess that's all thanks again.
 
Ace hardware store bolts are not the best way to go. All the old tubing is cheap enough it is worth replacing. The rotorhead should certainly be took apart and cleaned and all new AN hardware and new bearing put back in. I would have it manafluxed while apart too.

No offense but it sounds like you are looking for the cheapest way in the air. Do not cut corners bro! It is your ass up there riding on cheap bolts, old tubes, old rotorhead, old rusted steel controls etc....

Like I said 2-400$ in new aluminum, 200$ in new AN aircraft grade hardware, and some time and you will have a new gyro.
 
Upon closer inspection I can see the ACE stuff isn't the same. I don't know how to decipher it yet but the markings on the top of the bolts don't match. I now have sources for AN hardware thank guys. It's not that I'm being cheep (although money is a factor) it's just if I can establish that what's there is just fine, why replace it? Where your strategies seem to be, if in doubt throw it out. If I can't verify a components functionality/reliability I'll have to replace it.
 
Xorander,

I hope you'll take the time to join a local PRA chapter and get some local assistance. The people in this forum will offer endless assitance and advice. Everyone has the best intentions and your safety in mind. There are places to save money on a gyro. YOu can find good deals on engines, instruments and other parts on e-bay. However saving money on structural components and hardware is a recipe for disaster.

Good Luck
 
The Sunstate rotor club is holding their annual New Years Day Fly in, in Wauchula Florida at the airport there. I highly reccomend you drive down and even better bring your collection of gyro parts to let the more experienced people at the fly in take a look at it all for you.

No doubt about it, every bolt nut and washer on that gyro should replaced, All of them! You can order new Hardware from Lockwood aviation supply out of Sebring Florida, call 1-800-La-Rotax.... or drive down and pick them up in person and save yourself the cost of shipping. They are located at the airport there in Sebring.

The aluminum tubes should be smooth like a babys butt to the touch, if you run your fingers across the tubes. If there is any bumps or pits or anything else, go ahead and replicate that tube with a new one. But do make sure you order the right replacement tubing, if your not sure where to get it there is folks here on the forum that can help you find it.

The front structure that is made out of 1 inch angled pieces is not important. As long as it is not rotten or ready to fall off, you can just clean that up re paint it if you want.

the wheels and brakes look okay, just check them over, lube the pivot points and check the bearings for smooth operation. The tires may need replacing, don't use them if there is any dry rot showing at all. Replace the inner tubes just for safetys sake.

The control system needs to be sandblasted to get rid of all rust, and then checked over extremely well for cracks. The insides of the tubes need to be inspected as well. If this system fails, you are dead, that simple. All of the hardware and bushings should be replaced, the push tubes going up to the rotorhead are easy to replicate and replace, again the control system is not something to skimp on.

the framework that the seat tank bolts onto needs to be in top shape too. Remember that this assembly of aluminum angle pieces is meant to hold you and a tank of gas up off the control system and in the gyro while you yanking and banking and also on those hard landings! Needless to say this is a important area of the gyro.

Not sure about the engine mount, or tail or other pieces cause I don't remember seeing those in the pictures. If your going to use the Mac engine, I would send it to Rick W. or someone else experienced with the Mac engines to have it inspected and to install all the modern parts that make it a better engine, such as the CDI igntion.

Good luck, hope to see you at the New Year fly in.
 
And don't forget if there is any signs of corrosion, replace the Cheek Plates as well. Those are the plates that hold the mast onto the keel and the rotorhead onto the mast.
 
My friend... don't worry about it. Take it like now you goint to know better your machine. Just be pacient. My bensen was really ugly, and I din't know nothing about a gyro so I deside to restore my self. I took it out peace by piece checking everything,
(Dents, scrach, rust. etc.etc). If any question I had, I ask my friend here on the forum or here on my local chapter. It wasn't easy! but I did it. Just don't be shy to ask. We are here to help :D . On the first picture is how my bensen use to look.( but worse!) the second picture it how it finish .I Hope this motivate yo on your rebuilding.... Any thing question that you need don't be afraid to ask here or ask me.
 

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Rebuilt Rotor Head

Rebuilt Rotor Head

This is how the rotor head turned out.
 

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You see that look new! just be pacient.... that is the key of sussest. What did you did to it?
 
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