Little rotor tach (Schwinn)

For those of you who missed it the first time.

14 Function Bicycle LCD Odometer Speedometer
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Chuck Roberg :
Where were you at when I was buying mine chuck? I could have saved a little...........:Cry:
 
You don't need cadence mode. You just need to set it for 1667. All the cheap ones will work fine if you tell it that it has a REALLY BIG wheel that turns a tenth of a KM per revolution (that's what 1667 does).

My post "How it Works" in this thread explains the math:

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22146
 
Thanks for your inputs Jon.

Just a couple quick questions to beat this horse some more:

1. It appears to me after setting 1667, when the unit powers down after 5 min, or so, this number defaults to a different number. In my case 2124. It appears then, a reset to 1667 needs to be done prior to each flight n'est pas?

2. After setting 1667, which mode should it be flown in to give RRPM/10? Speedometer I'm guessing?

Thanks for the help. I have not yet had a chance to fly with it.

Cheers,

Mike
6th Grade graduate
 
Mike,

Speedometer mode is typical. Some models have various combo modes that all work, but include timers and other toys. I've never seen one default to 2124. Sometimes they default to standard US miles from metric, but that number should be 2682. I have seen some that have to be reset each time they are turned on. I'm not sure how to get past that. It would bother me, and mine does not do that.
 
Great week!

Great week!

GREAT WEEK
Well got to check out the tiny tach some more at the airport this past week. I did see a change in the way the rotors pick up so fast by them selfs once you make the turn into the wind. I also found out what rotor flap feels like when the blades are turning at a low RPM (The controls jerking in your hands) you have to watch it when you make the turn. But if you have a good RPM going once you make the turn the wind done not try to take the blades from you.

At 280 my bird is want to come up, I could feel the wheels dancing to try to leave the ground. Wanting to maintain my balance was easier at 280 RPM.
Had to quit when the wind started gusting to much. I left the ground a few time but only a by less than a foot.

I got to see the blades at the highest I seen them turn up 310.
 
Way to go Chris, coming on nicely. Sounds as though you will be hopping soon. The thing to know is that wheel balancing well is pretty tricky on the ground. There is not much distance between touching the nose wheel or touching the tail wheel and when you can do it consistently it means you have learned the fine technique required not to oscillate or porpoise when in the air.

There are quite a few guys who think that this is baby stuff and the sooner they are 'flying' the better. To my mind good consistent wheel balancing is a a great skill to learn that can only enhance your stick skills when in the air

On the turns though, I was taught that when turning the gyro on the ground put the stick forward and level the disc first, turn, then ease the stick back once the turn is complete.

Yes nice to have the tach, but getting a visual picture of the blades getting up to speed is also a useful thing to learn. Sounds difficult but it comes. Without a prerotator or a tach on the Bensen it's the only way I have, other than that twitch of the stick as the rotor begins to flap/blade sail, and tachs can fail
 
Resasi :
I will second how hard it is to keep the balance going down the runway.
I agree this might be baby stuff to some but when it is only you in the bird and you don't have some one there to help you clean up something bad, well it not going to something you want to look at. Trying to fly Steve's Parson is getting easier but trying to cross over into mine is a lot more work.......

I am trying to master this skill before moving on too far. I want to fly so bad! but if you don't feel the control is there yet don't do it...... There is a lot going on when you moving down the runway. rudder, control, speed.

Their are time I only need to adjust 2 to 3 times while other times I can't seem to find the spot. I also need to adjust the control stick. I am having to reach to far the keep it in balance to my liking........

With Sport copter blades I find to be lighter that the Skywheels at Steve has on his aircraft.
 
Yes Stu and I did a lot of work adjusting our stick and controls so that the handle was in a good comfortable position when in straight and level, or balancing.

One does not want to be having to lean forward, or have the stick too far back at that point.

You're absolutely right there Chris, that skill is a primary one. Finding the sweet spot is going to vary from day to day as conditions of wind speed and direction, temp, eng performance are always varying, as indeed our own personal performance does.:)

Yes the Macutcheon's are pretty heavy with lots of inertia. A sweet flying blade I am told.
 
Resasi :
Can't wait to see Stu behind the stick! :whoo:
 
You kidding, he did most of the build. I fly he films.

Wonder what he's waiting for. :suspicious:
 
Resasi
:lie:well I have heard it all now :lol:
 
fellows,

regarding the width of the mains..
My understanding, from examination of several gyro plans and other sources is the placement of the mains, tail wheel, and nose wheel is for the purpose of stability during ground handling.
Therefore, I would be very reluctant to be modifying the dimensions, even if it were very convenient.

Richard
 
Resasi :
Have you changed out your tires yet?
Oh yes I was doing some more practice this weekend and saw the RPM's hit a all time high of 330. did a few small crow hops but was not pushing it. Still getting the feel for her.
 
fellows,

regarding the width of the mains..
My understanding, from examination of several gyro plans and other sources is the placement of the mains, tail wheel, and nose wheel is for the purpose of stability during ground handling.
Therefore, I would be very reluctant to be modifying the dimensions, even if it were very convenient.

rkwill :
I don't understand what you mean. we were taking about the small bicycle speedometer that people are using for a (Rotor Tach)
 
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