StanFoster
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2003
- Messages
- 17,139
- Location
- Paxton, Il
- Aircraft
- Helicycle N360SF
- Total Flight Time
- 1250
Stirred some air for about an hour today in the Helicycle. I practiced some autos today, and could get the helicopter stopped at 4-5 feet skid height, then did a power recovery and kept repeating. I am liking autos more and more now that I have a better technique for getting all the forward speed stopped. There is plenty of reserve rotor energy left. I practice my autos by going at various heights, a real engine out isn't selective on height! I then roll off the throttle, catch the yaw, and purposely let a bit of time go by before I drop the collective. I feel this better simulates a real engine out as it takes half a second to realize you need to drop collective.
Then I immediately drop collective and give it a little back stick. Any time you drop the collective, this dumps equal amount of pitch on the advancing blade at 3 o'clock as it does on the retreating blade at 9 o'clock. This causes more lift to be dumped on the advancing blade than the retreating blade, because of the higher relative airspeed, and makes the rotor lower at the 12 o'clock position because of the aerodynamic precession action. A little backstick gets the helicopter attitude close to the desired 60-65 mpg glide down. I pull collective and keep the rotor rpm's at the green and ride it down. Looks just like the same view if you had a camera strapped to the back of a free falling possum. There are a few different methods for flaring at the bottom, and I will mention the gentler flare where you give it back stick a little earlier and keep flaring to stop your vertical descent and forward airspeed. You want your path to be parallel to the ground while you do a quick stop at the end. Pulling backstick till you have milked out all you can to stop the forward groundspeed. You have the nose high and the skids need to be leveled at the end before touching down. If you just push forward on the cyclic, it won't be as effective as if you pull collective slightly first and do most of the leveling with whatever forward cyclic is needed. Now you should be doing a hover and settling. Pulling collective as needed to gently set it down. There is the more aggressive flare where your flare is later into the auto, more aggressive, and needing more precise timing. I am just practicing the gentler flares right now. The more aggressive flares are for getting into more confined areas where you don't have much forward room . Just another day in the office. No camera today by choice. All you need is three colors of crayons to draw your pictuream. White for the snow, blue for the sky, grey for the trees. Stan
Then I immediately drop collective and give it a little back stick. Any time you drop the collective, this dumps equal amount of pitch on the advancing blade at 3 o'clock as it does on the retreating blade at 9 o'clock. This causes more lift to be dumped on the advancing blade than the retreating blade, because of the higher relative airspeed, and makes the rotor lower at the 12 o'clock position because of the aerodynamic precession action. A little backstick gets the helicopter attitude close to the desired 60-65 mpg glide down. I pull collective and keep the rotor rpm's at the green and ride it down. Looks just like the same view if you had a camera strapped to the back of a free falling possum. There are a few different methods for flaring at the bottom, and I will mention the gentler flare where you give it back stick a little earlier and keep flaring to stop your vertical descent and forward airspeed. You want your path to be parallel to the ground while you do a quick stop at the end. Pulling backstick till you have milked out all you can to stop the forward groundspeed. You have the nose high and the skids need to be leveled at the end before touching down. If you just push forward on the cyclic, it won't be as effective as if you pull collective slightly first and do most of the leveling with whatever forward cyclic is needed. Now you should be doing a hover and settling. Pulling collective as needed to gently set it down. There is the more aggressive flare where your flare is later into the auto, more aggressive, and needing more precise timing. I am just practicing the gentler flares right now. The more aggressive flares are for getting into more confined areas where you don't have much forward room . Just another day in the office. No camera today by choice. All you need is three colors of crayons to draw your pictuream. White for the snow, blue for the sky, grey for the trees. Stan
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