You don't see that many underslung belt drives, most of the ones I've seen have the prop above the crankshaft. I doubt that thrust line is an issue.
Hard mounts on any engine are something I dont' like to see at all, let alone a craggy, nasty 2 cycle (dont' take offense, all I fly right now are 2-bangers). Do you know how many hours this machine has on the airframe? Something is going to crack, eventually. I dont' know what, but I know it is not a matter of if but rather when.
Next, I don't like the small rudder on the V stab. I fly a Bee and I have twice the rudder area that your gyro has and I still hate it. One day it will be a tall tail, take it to the bank. It never has enough rudder "authority", I am constantly on the left pedal to correct, running out of rudder control, and I built in an extra 5 degrees static turn to counter the prop wash! Your new gyro has a straight apparent wind attack, so nothing at all to compensate in the least for the prop wash turning the gyro in the direction of the prop. In other words, BE DAMN CAREFUL WHICH WAY YOU TAKE OFF IN CROSS WINDS! If you have a 90 degree cross wind, make sure it works to your advantage when taking off, and, no matter what, make sure you land into the wind - even if it means landing across the runway or in the grass instead of the pavement. Or land so the cross wind and the prop wash work against each other to cancel each other out. Landing or taking off slightly downwind is not nearly so much a problem as crosswind in concert with prop wash. Dont' screw around with getting your prop wash working WITH any cross winds on take off or landing, it will just make it a pain in the tookas to maneuver.
Did I mention I dont' like this rudder?
ANyway, good luck with training! And plan to buy some raw materials and start changing some things on your new acquisition. IT won't cost much, you can do the work with simple hand power tools, and the results will be very satisfying. I'll be watching for more from you!
If you are going to change the tail, think about how you could make it a tall tail. IT is more work, more weight, and more expense, but it is worth it in the end.
Flying Dragon Wings and taking off routinely from an 800 foot grass runway is a recipe for many aborted TO's or just plain crazy. They are VERY flexible/flappy, they hit the stops way too easy on grass. Last Saturday I decided to try taking off after prerotating to the minimum 110 RRPM just for kicks. (I used to NEVER pre spin past 110 with Rotordynes, and always took off in 200-300 feet in calm wind.) With any other rotors this is no big deal. Guess what? I ate up 2000 feet of paved runway!!! I'm serious. That's with 65 hp, take-off weight just a bit over 510lbs. Dragon Wings and successful short take-offs dont' exist in the same universe, unless you can prerotate to twice the RRPM you need with a straight blade. I was on a 2000 ft grass runway last year at WRENS ROC and had to abort a take off cuz the gotdam things would NOT spin up from 110 RRPM on the attempt, in calm wind. I can take off in 300 feet, prerotated to 180RRPM, with a 3 MPH head wind, and that's about the best they'll do.