Heim rod end bearings

[JEFF TIPTON]

The LPS 3 will leave behind a wax residue and can be reapplied as necessary. It can be removed with most cleaners for inspection. Just a thought.

[bmoore2156]

Jeff, sounds like this stuff. This stuff doesn't work.
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[Doug Riley]

Have you tried Paralketon? It's another waxy-greasy formulation used on seaplanes. Wicks or Aircraft Spruce shoud carry it. I'd stay away from paint.

Rod end bearings have been known to break thanks both to internal flaws and to side loading. At AEROTEC, I bought commercial rod-end bearings in bulk and had each one magnfluxed.

Aircraft-type rod ends have a soft-metal lining in the ring (banjo) housing. The ball rides on this lining. The commercial ones have no soft metal insert; they're steel-on-steel.

It's wise to stick with aircraft grade, and to use 3/8" shank bearings in the primary control system, despite what the published strength numbers say.

Try to cut the pushrods so that only a few threads of the shank are visibly above the locknut (i.e. the shank should engage the threaded sleeve in the tube deeply).

Make certain that the locknut is snugged down. Smokey Castner of Florida died from loss of control of his gyro, thanks to his omitting the locknuts altogether.

[Greg Mitchell]

G'Day Doug,

I have aircraft grade 1/4" rod ends on my Butterfly Monarch. When ever the topic comes up and 3/8" is recommended I get nervous.
There is some vibration associated with the Metro Launch System Pre-rotator if it is not operated as instructed. Occassionally I get it wrong and the vibes make me worry more.

Having said that, on the three variants of Butterfly and three types of blades and dsic sizes, 1/4" rod ends only have been used, as that is what comes from the factory, for the lighter models.

Doug I remember on another thread somewhere that you posted some general or average figures for the compressive load on the push rods. I cant find that thread.
Could you restate those numbers for me please.

I will try and get some new slugs turned up that will take 3/8" shank.

Thanks.

Mitch.

[bmoore2156]

Thanks guys for the info.
I suppose I will try these other products before paint...
Brad

[Steve Weir]

Brad someone was using "Sharkhide" coating on their gyro build. I have thought about using it after I replace the heims. Not sure if it will work well in this application but it is clear.http://www.sharkhide.com/

[Doug Riley]

Hi, Mitch: I don't have figures for the actual loads imposed on pushrods in flight. That number is going to vary all over the place, depending on the geometry of the joystick system and the head.

What I posted, I think, was the compressive (column) load that a typical pushrod will tolerate before buckling. It's not much -- a bit over 200 lb. for a 7/8" x. .058 6061-T6 tube long enough to accommodate a 5-foot prop. The tubes are, of course, much stronger in tension than they are in compression.

The push tubes called out on the Gyrobee are 9/16 x. .065 4130 steel, to be used with 1/4" female shank rod ends and stock AN male stems. The tubes themselves are some 20-30 pounds weaker than those typical 6061-T6 units in the critical compression direction. I would only sell finished rods made of 7/8 x .058 6061-T6, with 3/8 shank rod ends.

The Butterfly I've flown split the difference -- using 5/16" shank rod ends.

In my opinion, the control system is no place to be shaving ounces. I prefer a control system that can be used as a hoisting point for the whole gyro!

[Greg Mitchell]

That was it.
Thanks very much Doug. I have locked that info into a word doc.

Cheers,

Mitch

[skier]

Originally Posted by Doug Riley

Aircraft-type rod ends have a soft-metal lining in the ring (banjo) housing. The ball rides on this lining. The commercial ones have no soft metal insert; they're steel-on-steel.

Working in the bearing industry, I'm not sure what you're getting at here. There are a bunch of different styles of bearings (rod ends included). There are ones that have a fabric linings, as well as ones that are metal-on-metal. There are also ones with PTFE fibers "bonded" to the metal race. They all work in different applications and all three types can be designed for use in aircraft.

That being said, if you're worried about corrosion, what about looking at different metals? 17-4 and 13-8 are generally pretty decent as far as corrosion resistance goes and are used in places where salt-spray can be expected. You could probably find bearings made from these materials that would still be corrosion free decades from now.

[Lee Scatt]

Thank You Jany, I am another small step closer and I appreciate your generosity.
Sharkhide is the ultimate for a "no-see-um" corrosion protectant coating. I witness it as withstanding Atlantic ocean abuse for at least two years with no re-application necessary.