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Old 04-13-2012, 07:07 PM
WHY WHY is offline
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Default building the fuseblock and power center

Here are some pictures of the fuse block that is used on the snowmobile with the Weber engine, I originally thought this was a Bosch item, but it turns out to be manufactured by Delphi and was obtained from www.mouser.com There are 2 additional parts not shown for simplicity, they are a "contact keeper and spring clips" that hold the cover on. The fuse block itself is called a "convience center 6 cavity" , the Mouser part number is 829-12110594-B. The "pin keeper" is called a "secondary comb lock" Mouser part number is 829-12110595-B. The cover is Mouser part number 829-12110602 and the cover clip part number is 829-15495959-B. The Mouser part number for the base module is 829-12084910-B . Suprisingly, these parts are not expensive. They do come without the contact pins, fuses, or relays, part numbers for these will be given later.

Primarily this first set of photos will just show the standard design mounting method which the fuse block uses for mounting, the next photo group will show how I did a alternate mounting , somewhat more difficult and a "little dangerous"

These pictures show the "basic module components" along with a piece of scrap aluminum that I made a "keyhole mounting plate" for the base module.

The aluminum can not be any thicker that .040. to work with the "slots" under the "keyhole buttons". The keyholes start out at 1/2 inch dia and then the "notches" are about 5/16 wide and 3/8 deep. The "latch" hole" starts out 3/16 dia and I enlarged it and squared it up with a square "needle file". The keyhole measurements are a little trickey as they are not in alignment as is the Latch hole not in alignment. The plate measures .040 thick by 5 inches long and 2 1/2 inches wide, length and width can be made different of course,depending on how you want to mount it. This one is made to mount off to the side. This method of mounting is the easiest to make, I will explain the other method and why in the next post
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:09 PM
WHY WHY is offline
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Well !@##$$%%^^. don't know what happened to the pics, will post them on next post.

Tony
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  #3  
Old 04-13-2012, 07:20 PM
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Default here are the pics

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Old 04-13-2012, 07:53 PM
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These next pics show the method that I used to mount my fuse block, I went this route because my fuse block is mounted inside the cockpit on a narrow brace and I needed things as small as I could get them. I mentioned in the earlier post that this method is more difficult to do and a "little dangerous" because the tools that I used to remove the small ribs inside the base module involve using a razor sharp wood chisle to cut and gouge out the ribs, a lot of pressure is used when using the chisle, and a big slip will produce the kind of injury that will have you in the emergency room "quick" . One photo shows all the tools that I used to get the ribs out, quite a job. The ribs are remove to make room for "backing plates" when the pop rivets mount the aluminum mount plate, I did not use counter sunk rivet because I did not have any at the time also no mounting bolt holes were drilled in the mounting plate because I do not know who may end up using this harness, which brings me to this comment.

If you are seriously considering using a Weber engine on your gyro and are considering using the Microsquirt EFI system, since the wiring of the harness and the fuse block are the most work I would suggest that you purchase a extra harness from DIYautotume for around $80 and start making the harness first so all that work will be done. Then when you get the ECU you are ready to go and you can sell the harness that comes with the ECU to the next guy that will be looking at a WEBER !! I'm guessing that a harness, fuse block, contact pins, relays and connectors for the sensors on the engine are going to come to around $175- $200. The Microsquirt EFI with harness, is now around $339, this does not include fuseblock or misc parts for same or the connectors that mate to the engine sensors. Oh yes, the standard harness is 30 inches long, if you need a longer one, a 8 foot one is available.

Think I will do this post like the last one, separate the commentary from the pictures.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:10 PM
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Default alternate method of mounting

alternate method of mounting
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:29 PM
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Default Circuit breakers

Hello Tony,

I prefer circuit breakers that can be reset in flight.

Thank you, Vance
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:53 PM
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Hi Vance

I would prefer circut breakers too, if space and configuration in my gyro would have permited it, but it doesn't.

Tony
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:12 PM
choppergabor choppergabor is offline
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I can see how hideous the chiseling can be. You did a great job Tony I can appreciate the patients it took to chisel away rib by rib....
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:00 PM
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Default fuse block terminal layout

Well here is where it really gets sticky, hope the pictures will help explain things. First some detail explanation. The original fuse wiring was on a Polaris FST snowmobile with a Weber MPE-750 engine. The wiring arrangement seems a little unusual to me but since I am not a enginner I figured, don't mess with sucess. There are 4 relays and 6 fuses. Two of the fuses are spares and held in by a single blade contact, so they don't feed anything. That leave a fuse for each relay. The wiring is done in such away that the buss feed goes to the fuse first then thru the relay. This ends up creating a small problem, but more on that later. My fuse/relay requirements required a total rewiring of the block, so with a new block it is actually easier since you don't have to strip the old block, (you use all new contact terminals anyway).

You will notice the terminals involved with the fuses are "ganged", these come from "Performance connections systens , the part # is 12160661, 12/14 guage capacity, $5.99 each (gang of 5 terminals). The gang terminals are space with an opening for one single terminal between each gang terminal, this allow a "buss" feed on the ganged terminals.

In one picture you will notice there are 3 ganged terminals on one side and 2 ganged terminals on the other side instead of 3. This is because it is necessary to feed 3 relays from one voltage source (master switch) and feed the other relay from the ignition switch, also at the top end of the block you will notice that there are 2 vacant terminal positions, these are the spare fuses. One picture shows the ganged terminals with the single terminals in between with with 2 vacant terminals position at the bottom, these are left out to show you the terminals that are fed from the ignition switch. The ganged terminals and the single terminals insert in opposing manner.

One picture show the tools I used, tin snips to cut the terminals, wire stripper and a terminals removal tool, it is a Delphi #12094430 from Ballenger Motors Sports $9.49. The stripper was a little expensive I thought until I used it a little and then I thought it was a bargin, it is a IDEAL stripmaster # 45-092 $31.99 from www.mytoolstore.com. A little side note, I also bought some good quality crimpers-------BUT---- after using them for a little bit and getting some very sore fingers trying to hold the terminals and keep them from rotating while I crimped them, I went back to using the needle nose pliers and soldering each terminal , ( I know--- it doesn't meet part 34 but thats the way I did it). More on the wiring and relays later .
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  #10  
Old 04-19-2012, 05:44 AM
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Hi Buddy!!

As usual looking GOOD!!!
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