B-Box bites the dust

Hopefully this can be answered quickly.

Can any old C box have a clutch added or do I need to buy a C box with clutch already?

I ask because on LEAF's web site, if I search for RK400 clutch all it comes up with is a retaining plate... not the actual clutch kit itself.

You know, that could be correct. So, why take a chance, I know this one will take the RK400 for sure, and you still have 1 hour and 30 minutes not to loose it. ;-)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...:MESELX:IT
 
What is everyones honest take on the liklihood of unseen engine damage? The engine has about 40-50 hours on it since I put it on last year and I bought it advertised as a complete overhaul including crankshaft.

I know right up to my taking it apart, the engine was and still is running like a charm. I've also inspected the cylinder walls and cylinders and they look good.
 
Well. I bid on the C box but didn't get it. The hunt is still on.
 
Bump. Can I get some words of advice on the liklihood of engine damage?

You guys who have been at it forever.. what have you seen? What would you do? Just fly it?
 
IMHO, engine internal damage is unlikely. I've busted a couple props over the years on B-box engines, one at full throttle. The engine actually ripped out of its mounts in that full-throttle incident, breaking off the crankcase bosses. I had the crank checked and there was no misalignment.

However, I DID have it checked. The charge was about $30.

By removing the crank for testing, you create an opportunity to replace the seals, which harden over time and leak anyway.
 
Thats good to hear. Other than the slapping at idle there was never any catch or hitch that jolted the motor enough that I ever noticed it at any engine speed. So I'm hoping all is well.

I will send it off to be checked since I'm going to be down for a few weeks locating a C box and working on an exhaust issue. I was just hoping recommendation wasn't a rebuild which I just plain won't have the money for.

A checkout though I can do. If something IS found in the checkout that requires a rebuild, I'll be down till next spring.

I'm glad I used a trailer hitch adapter for the engine wiring. But I also wish I was located at an airport with bunches of guys who fly.

The fact that I'm new to the sport combined with the fact that I basically am by myself except for questions on the forum, occasional meetings with Ron and Barry and 2 fly-ins a year, theres no constant person for me to lean on and learn. It gets expensive making set up mistakes.

The flying training I got from Steve is invaluable. I just need engine and airframe tutelege.
 
Well... my brand new C box FINALLY arrived yesterday and tracking info shows my clutch will arrive today.

I know what I'll be doing this weekend and hopefully next weekend will be spent making a new bracket for the pre-rotator. Then a trailer trip to Goose Creek, if Ron and Barry will have me, to test it all at a real airport where I have better landing options than I do flying from my farm road just in case any of the changes let go the first few flights.

Will my clutch come with instructions on which components in the gearbox to replace or does anyone know of a web tutorial or PDF?

I found great instructions for pulling the rest of my B box off the engine without having to use the Rotax lock up tool that goes in the impulse port by using a soft rope stuck through the spark plug hole to lock the engine up. I'll be doing that this weekend also.

I can't wait to get back in the air again.
 
sounds good Robert!

Come on down...my Dominator will be here next week and the 2 place should be ready for test flights by then! (just installed an EJ22) More power!

We can get Ronny to be the test dummy....I mean...test pilot for the whole day!

Barry (got that itchin' feelin'!)K
 
With the 503 and B box 2:58 I specifically asked Warp about having this combo. I had room to swing a 3 blade 64'' prop but the gent at Warp advised me against going to the limit, which it was on the table.

His advice drop 2'' and go with the 3 blade 62''. Yes I would lose a few lbs of thrust however I was being far kinder on both the engine and the gearbox. He predicted I would get around 210-220lbs and he got it spot on. At 5500RPM we pulled 321lbs. I could have got more with the extra 2'' but happier to have the safety margin.

Having just run in the 503 I can confirm the below 2000 rpm (1400-1800) there is metal to metal squealing which I was not happy hearing. Have adjusted the idle to around 2300-2500 rpm which as Ron says is very much smoother and quieter.

This does however require good brakes as the machine does want to taxii away when hand starting. I can thoroughly recommend the Black Max disc brakes they are really good. The Parking brake valve works perfectly.

I have to admit that although I would begrudge the weight, the idea of an electric starter has occurred over the last three days of messing about with multiple starts in the Florida sunshine...it has been quite warm!!
 
This does however require good brakes as the machine does want to taxii away when hand starting. I can thoroughly recommend the Black Max disc brakes they are really good. The Parking brake valve works perfectly.

I just put Black Max's on itand idled the engine up just prior to my B box blowing up, so the damage was already done idling it that slow.

But in relation to the Black Max brakes... queue up the "Diff'rent Strokes" music and picture Gary Coleman saying "Wut you talkin' bout Willis" because I gotta ask... Parking Brake valve??!?!?! :lol:

Am I blind, stupid, or what because my Black Max's don't have a parking brake valve that I am aware of and I very much wish they did. I am using zip ties stuck over the brake handle when I start the engine. If their there and I just didn't know it I'm going to feel like a highly tuned and optimized idiot. There is only 1 model of Black Max brakes right? Other than which Rims come with it of course.
 
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Robert I know the problem if one is away from other advice which is why this forum is so very valuable.

The Black Max parking brake is a very simple very small in-line shut off valve that simply locks in the pressure obtained by squeezing the lever.

It fits under the lever reservoir in line with the system and has a small ( about 1/2'' square black plastic square tap lever. I think it was about $20-$30 which may seem a lot for what it is but is simple small works well is very unobtrusive and to my mind well worth the money

I saw it advertised as an extra with the Black Max set-up. And having suffered from bad brakes on the Bensen just love these brakes and the stopping power they have just demonstrated in the taxii trials I have just done.

I was checking pedal/rudder response and the brakes on the taxiiway yesterday. At up to approx 30Kts there was no shimmy, tracking was great right on the center line, suspension seemed good and the stopping power was marvelous. Admittedly I still have rotor head and blades to go on but compared to the drum brakes I have been using there was just no comparison.
 
Thanks... I also love my black max's and they stop great. The only thing I didn't like was the lack of a parking brake.

Thanks for letting me know about the add on. I will definitely be ordering that.
 
I bought the set from Ron at HoverHawk Corp and the parking valve is $25.00 for the Black Max brakes. Give him a call.

HOVERHAWK.COM
To order the hydraulic brake system call 251-609-0969 or fax your detailed order to 815-346-5300. All major credit cards accepted by telephone or fax.
 
Heheh.. whoops.

I got mine just now from flyfbi.com, the same place I bought the brakes from for $15. I swear that wasn't on their web page when I bought the brakes.
 
I think that Ron does jack the prices, you just saved 10$.

I went direct to Warp for the prop and saved some there.
 
Arghh.. I hate delays. I have enough of those when things go RIGHT. I went out this morning to start putting the C box on and they didn't ship the allen head bolts and screws with my clutch. It says in the parts list, the screws are just 10-24 flat heads. I can get those anywhere, but allen head screws are just odd enough that lowes or ace hardware doesn't carry them and our specialty bolt store in town only has hours that cater to the business needs not the hobbyist.... i.e. not open on weekends and closes at 5:00, the same time I get off work.

Going to lose a weekend because of a few *&^%&^ bolts. :censored::mad:

I would have been out there afternoons this past week, but I already was out there till 1 or 2 in the morning 2 nights in a row making clothing racks for a consignment sale my wife is doing when our rental racks fell through at the last minute. Its all her fault!!!
 
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Where did you buy the clutch from? I have bought 3 of them and all 3 came with all the bolts you needed to install it.
 
I think I have managed to move past the, I want my licence/gyro yesterday, and resigned myself to the inevitable delays that have become part of the gyro scene as I have found it.

My first licence I got at seventeen and it took three weeks. Pretty well all of my other fixed wing licenses were all done lickety-split, with jobs to go to people waiting.

Now I am adjusting to a far more leisurely way of doing things and somehow I think it fits. Lets it all soak gently in.
 
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