Carb Primer

WindRyder06

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2004
Messages
598
Location
Rockwall, TEXAS
Aircraft
Monarch and a Modified WindRyder
Has anyone been having problems with their carb primer leaking around the plunger? I replaced mine back in April of May and the thing is leaking again. I think it must have something to do with the crappy gas we have now. Is there something out there that can replace this type of primer that works as well?

Thanks,
 
Chris,
It's a common problem, especially with the Chinese primers. Stick with the enricheners on the Bing carbs.

Dave
 
yep, I took mine apart when it stopped working. on the bottom where the two nipples are, that is a seperate piece that is friction fit into the plunger barrel. I took mine apart when it stopped pumping and I think the rubber seal had some trash in it!

Has anyone been having problems with their carb primer leaking around the plunger? I replaced mine back in April of May and the thing is leaking again. I think it must have something to do with the crappy gas we have now. Is there something out there that can replace this type of primer that works as well?

Thanks,
 
They're cheap and they work a lot better than the carb chokes. If I had to replace it once a month I'd still do it.
 
I agree tim, 2 primer pumps and she fires up everytime, heck with a choke! :sad:

They're cheap and they work a lot better than the carb chokes. If I had to replace it once a month I'd still do it.
 
They do wear out and leak. I've shock mounted the last few I've used and it seems to have helped some.....haven't replaced one in awhile.



Barry (no leaky pump) K
 
Mine leaked the first time I used it after it sat for 2 years, but after a few engine starts it sealed itself back up and no probs in 30+hrs after that.
 
mine is over 5 years old but it is a OMC boat primer looks like the junk you see in all the UL mags and online but is much better.
 
Tim,

I think you are right. They are fairly cheap at $10 from Bear Perkins. I ordered two and will have them by next weekend. Bear is a really good guy and runs a great business.

Brent, I have a boat type primer bulb to push fuel into the carb bowels and it is great, I am talking about the primer that squirts gas into the intake prior to the rotary valve to start a cold engine rather than the choke.

Chris
 
Chris, my recommendation is to remove the primer bulb completely. When I was changing my fuel line I tried blowing through my bulb and discovered it has some restriction in it. I removed it and won't use another one. I'd hate to have an engine out from fuel starvation because of one of those bulbs. You can get the fuel up through your fuel line by simply turning the engine over with the ignition off. The pulse pump will get the fuel up into the carbs with one or two pulls of the starter cord.
 
I had the pump primer and when I primed my engine it started leaking then stopped. I ran the engine for warm up taxied out to the runway, decided to let a PPC take off before me because we were both doing a 15 mile flight to another airport. When shut my engine down it started leaking again but very badly. I did not get to go flying at all that day.
Put a squeeze bulb on about 8 months ago and today went to the airport . Preflight , I find fine cracks in the rubber and dripps of gas. I think the fuel may have changed, but I am looking for a primer pump from a different source.
So Brent if you have a part number post it, please.
 
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After two pump type primer failures I trashed that idea and went to a good marine primer bulb. I flew one on my Bee for about 3 1/2 or 4 years without a problem and I'll keep using them. What Tim said is important. You really need to plumb in a bypass around the bulb for safety pruposes. I have mine st up so it drives fuel to the carb bowls all the time, but the primer line works off the same bulb via an inline valve. So my start up procedure is:

1. close the primer valve
2. squeeze the bulb to fill the bowls
3. open the primer valve and squeeze the bulb to prime the carb throats (the carb bowls are full and therefore force the fuel into the primer circut).
4. close the primer valve and start the engine


There is no danger of leaving the primer valve open, as the engine will not run right until it is closed.

My 2 cents. Anyway, it has worked flawlessly for me for years.

I hope it helps.
 
*********

I'm somewhat reluctant to post this 'cause they're getting somewhat hard to find, but..........

If you want a primer - a really good primer - find a "Lunkenheimer primer".

They are OLD and were used originally in Aeronca, Piper, and some other aircraft, I think.

(The company isn't the same as it was when producing these. They specialized in 'railroad train engine parts').

They are made of brass and made to last. I found one on Ebay a few years ago but there aren't any showing up now 'cept for one without a plunger.

If you find one, the 'packing' (used in lieu of an O ring) may have to be changed. But, if you appreciate well-built old stuff, you'll like this primer.

Or, just keep changing the 'dime store' primers made in Bangledooshbag.

Trez

*****************
 
I hate for my first post ever to be a hijack, but "Bangledooshbag" has had me rolling on the floor laughing for the last 10 minutes...I now return you to your thread in progress.:p
 
the primer pumps are good cause they shoot fuel mist just past the carb so she is almost guaranteed to fire. "sometimes it takes another pump or two to make the fuel pump kick in" the primer bulbs just fill up the float bowls, your setup sounds good rick but I like the kiss method myself! on my plane I simply had a choke and the 3 gallon tank was so close the engine I just blew into the tank and that would fill the bowls up. the bypass is a good thing to have around those boat bulbs, read alot of bad stuff about those hangin up.

After two pump type primer failures I trashed that idea and went to a good marine primer bulb. I flew one on my Bee for about 3 1/2 or 4 years without a problem and I'll keep using them. What Tim said is important. You really need to plumb in a bypass around the bulb for safety pruposes. I have mine st up so it drives fuel to the carb bowls all the time, but the primer line works off the same bulb via an inline valve. So my start up procedure is:

1. close the primer valve
2. squeeze the bulb to fill the bowls
3. open the primer valve and squeeze the bulb to prime the carb throats (the carb bowls are full and therefore force the fuel into the primer circut).
4. close the primer valve and start the engine


There is no danger of leaving the primer valve open, as the engine will not run right until it is closed.

My 2 cents. Anyway, it has worked flawlessly for me for years.

I hope it helps.
 
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