Yamaha Genesis 120hp engine

All I can say is Damn, that's impressive work.

wow racer nice work ...i hope youe don't mind me using some of your idea's on the mount im making for my yamaha ......thanks for the pic's ...
dennis

Yowsa! Hey can you build me one of those, I want to put a piece of flat glass on top and make a coffee table, Nice work, to bad it will be under a cowling.


Seriously Todd, you should save your pics of this stuff and write a short article for Contact Magazine, I know you are busy, but you need to get the word out, again great work, and great work on the whole engine mod.

dilly said:

wow racer nice work ...i hope you don't mind me using some of your idea's on the mount I'm making for my Yamaha ......thanks for the pic's ...
Dennis

Click to expand...

Dennis, You are free to use any idea's you get from me and make your own, that is why I post pics here.

Scott, that is a good idea and I will try and do that someday but now I gotta get back to work. I have people waiting on stuff including stuff for me.

Believe me I know about being busy! Keep up the good work.

What

What

Todd,

That is a very impressive looking motor mount. You may have already posted this and I just don't remember seeing it but how about posting a picture of the typical motor mount you use to mount the Yamaha to a Gyro. I am trying to picture in my mind how one could be mounted to my Gyro and I haven't been able to see it yet.

Todd- The more I watch Rons gyro fly, and the mire pictures I see of your work, the more I am impressed with your work. I cant wait to see this machine in person at Bensen Days. Keep on the "cutting edge" no pun! Stan

I finally received two out of the three Auto flight reduction boxes that Russ Hobbs and Kevin Richey ordered and got a chance to check them out up close.
They are built very solid and the workmanship on them is top notch and well done.
Each box dry weighs 19lbs (according to my very accurate Walmart bathroom scale) so you may want to give or take a few ounces, the Rotax C box weighs 17lbs 6oz so the Auto flight is a bit heavier.
Neil at Auto flight built these custom for the Yamaha application to handle the higher RPM demands so we will give them a shot and see how they work out. Sorry Rotax, There will be none of your products on these next three motors.
I will keep you up to date on the progress.
Todd

Nice work on the mounts ,Todd.

Neil, nice redrives !

These will bolt right up to the Yamaha? How about the engine tilt ?

No clutch, Neil doesn't like them. New drain plugs.....I'm not crazy about the clear plastic one on mine.

I would go for the new blue ones though....What you say, Neil ?

Wow. Bummer the delivery guy just left 'em on the steps like that, with no box...

Chris, nothing bolts right up to the Yamaha. That's why we need Todd!

Yeah, but Neil made these ! Looks like they can rotate 1/8 turn increments.

Pretty smart , HUH ?

Looking at those gearboxes, makes me wonder how you will bolt them on.... Looks like you would have to bolt them onto the back plate you make for the engine, and there might not be room to do that with.

The one thing I don't like about Barrys Autoflight box is how it pukes out so much oil when your running it. I do like the prop flange though, much better than a Rotax flange as used on the B,C, and E boxes.

Where does the oil puke out Ron ?

Is he using the recirculating bottle ?

CLS447 said:

Where does the oil puke out Ron ?

Is he using the recirculating bottle ?

Click to expand...

pukes out a hose into a small plastic catch tank.

Please elaborate ! I have not run mine yet .

Does Barry's have a clear plastic plug on the side ?

When the engine is running, oil seems to foam up in the gearbox and expand. It comes up out of the gearbox through a hose into a small plastic catch tank. Then once you shut off the engine, the oil seeps back into the gearbox. Seems like a poor design that the oil can't stay in the gearbox without half the volume needing to be puked out into a tank till you shut down the engine.

GyroRon said:

When the engine is running, oil seems to foam up in the gearbox and expand. It comes up out of the gearbox through a hose into a small plastic catch tank. Then once you shut off the engine, the oil seeps back into the gearbox. Seems like a poor design that the oil can't stay in the gearbox without half the volume needing to be puked out into a tank till you shut down the engine.

Click to expand...

Ron, I don't know anything about Neil's design but this certainly sounds like an expansion tank like we have on our cars cooling system. If that is the case then the oil isn't necessarily foaming or 'puking' but just expanding from heat.

The expansion tank serves a good purpose in that it provides a means to keep the system full under both cool and hot conditions by providing external capacity when hot. And then returning the coolent when the radiator cools off. Maybe Neil feels that keeping the box as full as possible is a plus as opposed to using a design where lubrication is like a cars gear box.

I can see where having the gears immersed in oil would provide better life and the larger oil capacity might help in cooling the drive. But, then there might be the possibility of chewing up a little power in churning through a full box of oil. There are always design tradeoffs! How is the specified oil level in the gear box determined?

GyroRon said:

When the engine is running, oil seems to foam up in the gearbox and expand. It comes up out of the gearbox through a hose into a small plastic catch tank. Then once you shut off the engine, the oil seeps back into the gearbox. Seems like a poor design that the oil can't stay in the gearbox without half the volume needing to be puked out into a tank till you shut down the engine.

Click to expand...

It is not unusual for gearbox that operates at temperatures over 50C to consume up to 10% extra power, frothing or foaming is a problem with any gear driven box more so depending used gear cutting method. De foaming should be done to prevent oxygen build up which occurs from circulation, too much oxygen in any lubricating system will reduce the lubricating effects of the oil causing premature wear. This problem can be easily fixed see: post 4 http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20316
raton

The oil level is sighted through a glass centered pulg a couple of inches from the bottom.
We have used the recommended oil and have not seen any foaming problems at all. They do not even breathe a drop into the plastic bottle breather.
The gearbox runs cool according to the aircraft temperature sensitive sticker.
Perhaps moisture buildup from condensation may cause foaming?

This is getting interesting now.

Where is Neil ?