Gil's Hornet build.

gilgsn

Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
312
Location
France, near Lille.
Total Flight Time
650
There it is, I have decided on a Hornet. I have been dragging my feet long enough, but a ride in Dave Seace's Dominator at Bensen Days was the last bit of encouragement I needed. I got my first set of part from Denis, waiting for a few more, and I'll be bolting things together. Living an hour away from Wauchula is a big plus, and I'll probably stop by there again for the Independence Day meeting, not to mention lessons later.

Here I will explain some of my choices. I am here to learn, so please let me know if anything I plan on doing seems unsafe, or if there is a better choice. I will update this thread every time I make progress, with an update on time and money spent. I'll also take videos and photos along the way.

Engine: That was (is) a though one. Basically, I narrowed the choice to the 447, 503, MZ-201 and MZ-202. I am leaning towards the MZ-201, because of the weight. I can make ultralight with the 201. It has 6HP more than the 447. If Ralph Taggart swears the Gyrobee flies fine on the 447 with a 220Lbs pilot, then I should be fine with my 200Lbs. We are at sea level here, so much the better. It seems like the Bees having trouble with a 447 are either much heavier than 254Lbs, or are flown by heavier pilots.. If I need more power, I can turn the MZ201 into a 202 since they use the same block; it would be pricey though, we'll see..

Rotor Blades: Dragon Wings, 23ft. Seems to be the most popular ones, and cheapest to boot! Problem is, I'll need a pre-rotator.

Pre-rotator: I need something very light, and that would be Aviomania's electric model, at 10Lbs, including batteries. I could carry the batteries in cargo-pants pockets if need be. The price is very high, but I don't seem to see anything else that light. I don't want the manual pre-rotator. From what I hear, it only gets to 60rrpm.

Rotor Head: Well, if I get the Aviomania pre-rotator, I might as well get the rotor-head with it. Otherwise, the Black Beauty from Starbee.

Seat: 3.5lbs for this go-kart racing seat:
http://www.magnaracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=284_285_286&products_id=814
Sounds pretty good!

Fuel tank: Here I am thinking about safety. I don't want something that is going to burst if I make a less-than-perfect landing. A drag-racing fuel cell should do:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JAZ+Products/547/250-105-NF/10002/-1

Instruments: The strict minimum. Airspeed, CHT, Hobbs Timer. If I have a few pounds available, then Altimeter, RPM, Compass, EGT? I might use the Swinn RRPM gauge I read about somewhere here, it probably weighs close to nothing. I like the Falcon gauges:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/in/falcon.html

Wheels: AZUSALITE 4" Wheel, for the weight:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/azusalite.php

Tail: A though one too. I don't really want to mess-up with epoxy. The attachment of the Hornet tail also seems a bit light to me. I saw the Dominator aluminum tail at Bensen Days, and at $875, it is reasonable, considering the time saving. I am going to wait and see what Dan McGee will come up with, since he is working on an aluminum tail.. Any thoughts on the Dominator option?

Prop: Wooden, I can think about that later...

Finishing: I was thinking about powder-coating, but it seems the heat involved might be a problem. I could just prime with Zinc Chromate, and put a coat of paint on the outside. A friend of mine can get me the stuff they use on Cessnas, he said it lasts forever; I forgot the name..

That's pretty much it. If anyone building a Hornet or similar aircraft has extra parts, I might be interested. If you're willing to make extras, in particular, any machined parts, I will most likely buy them.

My experience: I built and flew three ultralights from kits. I used to tow adverting banners along the French coast with them (using Rotax 532s, 25'x50' banners). 400Hrs of ultralight flying, 250 of regular airplanes. 9 parachute jumps, including one free-fall (not tandem). 2 engine-outs... I'm still here, so...

Suggestions are more than welcome. If I don't build fast enough, you guys give me a cyber-kick-in-the-ass right here ;-)

Gil.

Below is the stuff I am starting with:
Hornet_Parts.jpg

I will not use the folding mast option, and didn't get the parts related to it in this photo..
 
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Gil good choices! I wish you the best with your build. I'll be watching you build your dream. I might even bump into you at Wauchula since we didn't manage to do so at Bensen's. So you'll fit the hornet with a tall tail? Hmmmmm. Interesting. Now I am very interested :)
 
Hey Gil,

New to the forum/gyros/etc., but looking at a part 103 for sure. Have looked at the Hornet and Gyrobee plans and was probably going to go forward with the Gyrobee due to the number of completed and with many proven mods.

Question(s)

1) Why did you choose the Hornet over the Gyrobee (or comparable)?
Drop keel? Suspension?

2) Where did you buy the frame parts?

3) What is a "though one"? lol . . . you mean tuff one, right?

Thanks Gil!
 
Hi,

Yes, tough! LOL.

As to why I chose it instead of the Gyrobee, it was mostly because of the drop keel. I think the Bee is great, and Near-CLT for a low-power machine like that is fine. The Hornet is so close to the Gyrobee, I think it will behave the same way. The drop keel is just a little extra insurance. I wish the suspension and front-wheel assembly were a bit simplified, if at all possible.. I might get regular shocks, not sure. There has to be some simpler front wheel fork usable that can be bought. My front tube is already drilled, so I'll stick with the plans. Anyway, I don't consider the Hornet to be an entirely new design, but a modification of an existing one. I made my choice, but I would not hesitate to build and fly a Bee..

The parts, I got from someone who had a few extras...

Gil.
 
Gil, I hanger at Wauchula and drive an hour a half every weekend just about. Come on out
 
Thanks for answering Gil. I agree with the drop-keel advantage. Looks nice too! Was curious about "hot" landings, however, and with the "lowered" keel hitting first and hardest that there might eventually be a structural issue. All ya got is cheek plates and bolts v. the GB's 2"x2" straight alum tube.

Haven't measured the difference between the GB and the Hornet, and the Hornet rear suspension might be slightly higher to compensate(?) for the lower keel? Just curious.

BTW, I agree that the Hornet plans look good, especially if you have a CNC with block aluminum handy. If not, however, either waste ALOT of alum trying to do it perfectly yourself on a drill press or send it to a machine shop. Wish the best design was also the easiest, eh?

I think that I'll be doing what you're trying to accomplish . . find it already in existence and just pay da man. I've read elsewhere (as I'm sure you have too!) that a 12 inch bicycle fork has been used many times for the front suspension. Don't remember the name of the bike, just that it works and is CHEAP. Also, I saw in plans somewhere where the rear suspension incorporated a 12" x 1" nylon/rubberized rod that is inserted parallel to the ground between the suspension and the wheel hub to create a flex suspension. Probably not too stable regarding lateral control on the ground, but it looked interesting.

Lastly, sorry if I'm stating the obvious when I write, still pretty new to the forum but have read alot on other sites. Probably read mostly old NSS (No S%$T Sherlock) stuff that you guys have already used/replaced/modified a long time ago.

Look forward to checking the site daily and reading on your progress Gil! I'll be living vicariously until I decide on where to move/live and set up shop.
 
Gil for a beginner I think that those parts you purchased will have saved you countless hours of possible mistakes and replacement material.

It was a good way to go, and coming from where they did I would be prepared to bet they are accurately built.

The dropped keel of the Hornet is a good mod of a proven design. Pretty much center line thrust and a simple effective suspension that I think is simpler than shocks. The Hornet stable mate in our hanger has coil spring shocks and, I think, too soft a suspension.

We did not use the bicycle front wheel fork in the earlier plans but the last ones, and to my mind nice and sturdy. We did get Dan to machine the Delrin block for us.

We chose not to go with the folding mast either.
 
Hi Leigh,

Yes, getting those parts was great. Denis should be sending me the second batch soon, I'm waiting to hear from him.. Everything is very precisely drilled. I'll be looking at the landing gear next, front and back, while waiting to get some hardware. I'd like to have it on it's wheels this summer.. I am giving myself one year to completion, but you never know. Too bad I missed you at Bensen Days, I would have loved to see your aircraft.

Gil.
 
Gil I was looking for you as well. Our Hornet was out there on the pan with the others. Did not have it's Rotors on.

We trailered it in Fri afternoon and took it back to Zephyrhills Sun afternoon

If you flip though Gabor's thread on Benen Day Pictures we are in there.
 
Very exciting Gil, we love build threads.
 
Darn, I should have kept my money for parts, but I need to fly in style!

SPH-4.jpg


Found it on Ebay.. The liner is missing, but it seems like this SPH-4 is a special edition equipped with the standard oxygen mask attachment. This helmet might have been flown on a Super Cobra during extreme flight maneuvers for testing purposes where it was necessary for the pilot to use an oxygen mask (I wonder...?).

I will convert it to civilian electronics with:
http://store.acousticom.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40&product_id=131
and
http://store.acousticom.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=53

Gil.
 
Now you got the look of a fighter pilot!!

PS:
I recently learned (from someone who should know) that the Hornet is the better design of the two.
 
hey gil, I don't know much about how the hornet is configured compared to the gyrobee but the gyrobee relies on its light disk loading " big rotor" to perform on 40 hp! just wanted you to keep this in mind! my bee has 23ft rotors on 40 horse and climbs faster than my airplane would. :eek:
 
Well, I hope 45HP will be enough, we'll see. I read the DWs have to spin fairly fast, and a 24ft rotor might have them go too slow...

Gil.
 
Depending on MGW and airfield elev you fly from probably 22'-23'.
 
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