Time to thing about wiring!

Elect. It is a big thing. Were to put it all and how to run the wires.
Well I know that I want the throttle and and most of the T-switches and the botton for the p-rotor all on the left side of me the temp gauges on the right or center. I have to think about a pod. what size????? Well think what is going to go in it!

Rpm for rotor
Rpm motor/ HR meter (T tack)
Alt.

Chris: Do yourself a big favor and use Molex plugs for your wiring. Radio Shack carries them in various sizes, up to 12-pin at least. Put one near your engine so that you can disconnect all the wires running to the engine with a simple pull. Ditto the wires going into your instrument pod, and to any other "peripheral" point. I use simple two-pin Molexes for the rotor tach and strobes, for example.

I like to solder the wires to their pins, as well as crimping the pins. Use electronic solder, not plumber's acid-core solder. Use a Tyrap or safety wire to hold the male and female halves of the plug together.

Black plastic wiring looms, held closed with small Tyraps, also make your wiring job neat, safe and attractive.

For an instrument-mounting panel on my Bee at least cost and weight, I made and mounted a small flat panel just above the keel. It's suspended by springs. Yes, you have to look down to see it, but this is no more than a momentary flick of the eyes. You should not stare at the panel while flying -- keep your head out of the cockpit.

Pictures

Pictures

Doug:
I know when I had my birds in the mil. the #1 thing was wires rubbing. I want a neat job. I Rotex has 2 male plug on it right now. It came with the female ends and term. also to do it right. I will post the pics after work today.

Doug

Those Molex are the ones used for telephones typically yes? I didnt realize they came in two wire configurations. Are they also suitable for different gauge wires and how well do they stay connected (vibration etc being the consideration)?

Thanks

I have seen Molex connectors used in a number of applications. They work well. I would recommend buying the correct crimper to attach the wires. Most people will do more harm then good with a soldering iron. If your going to use them ,do it right , buy the crimper!

Doug Riley said:

I like to solder the wires to their pins, as well as crimping the pins. Use electronic solder, not plumber's acid-core solder.

Click to expand...

edypaul said:

I have seen Molex connectors used in a number of applications. They work well... If your going to use them ,do it right , buy the crimper!

Click to expand...

Thread on crimping and soldering:
http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9617

edypaul said:

I have seen Molex connectors used in a number of applications. They work well. I would recommend buying the correct crimper to attach the wires. Most people will do more harm then good with a soldering iron. If your going to use them ,do it right , buy the crimper!

Click to expand...

Better yet...Learn how to solder. Solder connections on most applications are more reliable than crimped...dependent on installation space and possibly...weight.


Cheers

This might be helpful while building...take your pick of styles.

Check Your Standards Please !!

Check Your Standards Please !!

Hey guy's,

Where are the alarm calls from the licenced maintenance guy's? Since when is soldering allowed on aircraft looming? I was taught, NEVER solder, only crimp. Especially doing both on a single joint !!!!!!!!

Even after soldering, solder is still in a fluid state, it will slowly deform, especially under vibration, the joint will weaken, the rest becomes "possible statistic".

Use a ratchet crimper guy's, a decent Daniels type, not a universal automotive clamp type, with the red, blue, yellow crimping positions, wire stripper and cutter combo type. Must be one that clamps all around, guides the inner tang ends around and inwards to firmly clamp the conductors, as well as the outer tangs a bit less, to clamp the insulation. Have a look at production crimps, it's not a simple squeeze flat operation, it has to compress in a sequence, and end in a small round diameter, to fit into the plug receptable. The ratched crimper ensures the correct clamping force is used.

The insulation stripping part is also critical, use a decent wire stripper, that does not damage the inner conductors, only cuts through the insulation. The stripped length is critical. The rear of the pin being crimped on must hold on to the insulation, and carry the bending load. Soldering does NOT give you that support, so the inners flex and eventually break off !!

You guy's are usually so "pedantic" on some issues, can't believe you are advocating solder joints for a high vibration environment.

If you can't afford an aircraft grade ratchet crimper, THEN DON'T TAKE A SHORTCUT, BORROW ONE !! Your life might depend on it!!

Hav'nt even touched on the corrosion issue of soldering..........

Soldered joints are NOT more reliable than crimped ones!! FACT !!

BTW, MOLEX connectors are designed to be crimped, not soldered.

Regards,

Francois

Harry_S. said:

Better yet...Learn how to solder. Solder connections on most applications are more reliable than crimped...dependent on installation space and possibly...weight.


Cheers

Click to expand...

I don't agree that solder connections are more reliable . When You use the proper crimping tool you eliminate all the variables to cold solder joints , too much solder, not enough solder, wicking, melted insulation, not to mention Molex pins were not designed to be soldered!

HobbyCAD Said it all !!!

I hate to jump in here.....but I have had good luck with these type,
I know they are not aircraft: http://www.vintageconnections.com/

I have seen crimped connections fall off after a few years (avionics installed by professional avionics shop)

You might want to go to a different avionics shop. Ive been in the industry for over 22 years and just because you have a rating does not mean you are a professional. Its all in the person that is doing the work. Some take the time to do it right .Some don't .

Easy boys lets play nice!

Easy boys lets play nice!

Well when I log in at work I thought get home to a few reply. I plan on mounting the motor this weekend and start work on the elect. parts.
For the last 25 years I have work on golf carts and always around battery connections. You have to get a good crimp. If you don't the first time you put a load on it you get res. then comes the heat and loss of power. I live 2 miles from salt water inlets. So I would say I have salt in the air that will have a bad effect on connections. :whip:

Hi There,

scottessex said:

I hate to jump in here.....but I have had good luck with these type,
I know they are not aircraft: http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Click to expand...

Yes, that's getting better. Although they are not aircraft grade, they sure will do the job. Looking at the pictures, one can clearly see the middle tangs designed to firmly grip the inner conductors, making a good electrical connection, as well as the larger tangs at the back, gripping the insulation and acting as the strain relief.

The ratchet crimper is also correct, and at $35 only!! You can buy interchangeable dies, to crimp all the other types of pins and terminals, co-axial cabling, the whole toot. If you don't have one in your toolbox, you're missing out !!

Francois

Dale Young said:

....Where the ocean meets the sky, I'll be sailing......

Click to expand...

Dale,...sure the bad connection was not made at a boatshop?...LoL...:lol::lol:

HobbyCAD:
Hey what is one more pair of crimps in the tools box. I know what you mean!
Lets see whan I built my house I had to buy
crimps for the lugs on the power lines
Crimps for the PEX water lines
crimps for the co-axial cabling.
Crimps for the little copper ring when you do the elect. wiring on switches and plug ins.


Hey the crimps look better than the ones Sear & roebuck sell. I had them at work, took them down to the lagoon fishing and lost them. Told the boss I needed some new ones. Bought KB wire strippers.
Thanks to all!:whip:

The crimp on the insulation is possibly the most important. It helps prevent vibration fatigue.
Living coastal, I apply Liquid Tape to all crimped connections. It seals the joint and damps vibrations at the terminal.

Crimp and heat shrink tubing...never had one fail yet! (you just have to crimp properly).