RAF 2000 Gimbal head Adjustment

CjAwe

Newbie
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Messages
60
Location
Apple Valley, MN
Aircraft
RAF 2000/Cessna 172
Ok...last question before my little beastie goes in for the A&P sign-off and allegedly is capable of flight once again.

The RAF Product notification #25, it states that lateral movement of the gimbal head should be 10-12 degrees, Fore movement should be -1 or -2 degrees, and aft movement should be 18-20 degrees.

First I appear to be getting 10 degrees right but only about 9 left. How do you adjust this??? It seems like the gimbal head hitting the Cheek plate is the stop and no adjustment is available? Breaking out a file and/or hacksaw seems extreme.

How does one line up the gimbal head to "level" with the rest of the cheek plates/mast to get the fore/aft measurement. I eyeballed it and I seem to have one heckofa lotta fore movement. (-10 to -12 degrees!!!) Aft movement was somewhere in the line of 18 degrees.

I'm a big, BIG fan of the ability to control an aircraft in flight so any words of wisdom out there???
 
Well, let's see...

Laterally, if you have 10 and 9 now, that's good unless you really want the 10 and 10?! To adjust it so that you have an even readout on both sides...adjust your push tubes.

The tops of the cheek plates DO serve as the stops for the lateral travel. DON"T mess with them. Adjust the push tubes.

Do you have the Warp Drive prop level/protractor that came with the original kit? Do you have the assembly videos that came with the original kit? The videos will show you how to set your fore and aft stops. You will need a bubble level/protractor for the set-up, if you want to be precise.

I could "talk/write" you thru it but it would take too much bandwidth here plus I'm a one finger typist...meaning it takes a long time for me to type something. Any other RAFer near you?!


Cheers :)
 
Well, let's see...

Laterally, if you have 10 and 9 now, that's good unless you really want the 10 and 10?! To adjust it so that you have an even readout on both sides...adjust your push tubes.

The tops of the cheek plates DO serve as the stops for the lateral travel. DON"T mess with them. Adjust the push tubes.

Do you have the Warp Drive prop level/protractor that came with the original kit? Do you have the assembly videos that came with the original kit? The videos will show you how to set your fore and aft stops. You will need a bubble level/protractor for the set-up, if you want to be precise.

I could "talk/write" you thru it but it would take too much bandwidth here plus I'm a one finger typist...meaning it takes a long time for me to type something. Any other RAFer near you?!


Cheers :)


I won't make you type too much! :) I do have the protractor and unfortunately, I only have 3 of the 9 (or so) videos that came with the gyro when I bought it last month. The construction manual might as well be fodder for a nice campfire this summer.

There is another RAF owner here in MN that I'm going to be calling shortly. I've been buried in 500 hr/2 year maintenance up till now. This being my last item, I'll now have time to actually leave my garage. It'll be a nice change!

Thanks for your help!
 
Raf

Raf

Cj, Call me, I have all of the videos etc. Tom Hall in Rochester 507 - 282 - 9682.
 
Chris,

I had an afterthought (ouch) while having supper.

If you really want the lateral 10* and you can't get it by the pushtubes, do this...

At the bottom of the push tubes, at the control yoke, you'll see a fender washer where the trim springs attach; the pushtube may be hitting hard on the bent washer. If so, you will have to remove the washer and put another degree or two in the bend to allow more clearance to the pushtube. This will require a bit of disassembly so, make notes of how it comes apart so it goes back together properly...that is if that section is missing from your manual. I don't recall as that assembly was in the videos however.


Cheers :)
 
I don't know what others have done but I have also drilled and wired the heads of the fore and aft adjustment nut that has a jam nut on it. I've been told that a crash occured because these inverted bolts backed themselves out, causing a lack of movement. It was a very easy move to ensure that mine don't come out.
 
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