Helicycle Hatchery

Stan this thread has a large number of followers who I am sure, while being extremely happy for you when your creation takes to the air, will be slightly sad that the pleasure you have given them in the build is now over.
Are you kidding me, once Stan is set free in that bird, we will get to enjoy pics from his flight to places yet explored.

I remember all the great flight posts when he was flying his RAF-2000 and later his sparrow hawk.

trust me , We will have some great story's to read of Stan's new adventures in his Helicycle. just wait until he mounts a video camera on that baby.

I can't wait.
 
Gee Stan,

Since you loved building that machine so much, maybe you should sell it to me and get another one so you can spend the next 2.5 years building it.

;) Ya, right!
 
Bob- A Genesis is a gyroplane kit made by Nicolas. His company is at www.aviomania.com. How is your rebuild coming along? You sure can build a nice gyro. Can't wait to see you back in the air. Stan
 
Have you fueled to check leaks, or if it will pump, ignite and shut off. lol
 
Larry- I have had it full of kerosene for 6 months. It is leak free. I have had my oil pressure up to 25 pounds by running the starter and so far so good. You might recall ealier in my build, I filled my tanks with water and everything was fine for 2 months. Then one day I noticed a little bit of water on the floor. I assumed it was one of my tank bolts that have an O-ring for sealing. It was my top tank, but strangely was leaking even when I lowered the water level below the suspected bolt. It was a major job removing that tank and would have really been a major job had it started leaking just now. I had a freak spot in my tank that a bulging frame weld was working on. I sent the tank to the factory and they immediately gave me a new tank. They had never had a tank leak like that. I was just so happy that even though it was a pain to fix then, it would have been 5 times the work now. I also filed down the welds where the tanks rode against and am content it was just a freak incident. Stan
 
You might recall ealier in my build, I filled my tanks with water and everything was fine for 2 months. Then one day I noticed a little bit of water on the floor.

Oh Stan, I remember the whole process distinctly! It make me hickup when think about fixing a leaky fuel tank and grinding the inside through a hole. The RAF tank plumbing has bothered me ever since.

I was curious if you had fired the kerocene for a few seconds. Tough to resists I would think.
 
Larry- I have run the starter several times, and all I would have to do is hit the start/fuel button, and it would light off. I know enough about starting this turbine without the governor being set, and the overspeed system calibrated, that this keeps my finger off that button. I have too much time and money invested in this machine to risk damaging the turbine. I just have to remain patient a little while longer. During my factory checkout, Doug Schwochert will drill me on the do's and don't's operating this turbine. I feel if I get impatient now after 2.5 years and go and start my turbine, then I probably deserve to have it damaged doing so. If I have an obsession, its having an obsession with patience. Waiting for 6 months on that turbine to arrive almost found my limits however! Stan
 
fuel system

fuel system

Note- This post will seem boring to everyone except some Helicycle builders who have asked me questions that I am trying to cover here in one place.

So at the threat of being bored.....read at your own risk. :D

I am trying to minimize the chances of my turbine going silent because of fuel delivery...or my electrical system failing. I have recently been asked by e-mail and I responded I would answer it here...as other Helicycle guys will see it.

My fuel system has a few modifications to it that like any rotorcraft, are unique to itself.

My fuel is delivered out of a port about 1.5 inches above the wedge shaped bottom of both the left and right tank. I am a nut about sumps, so here was an opportunity to have a sump for each outlet. I installed a fitting at the bottom of each sump and installed a petccock for drainage. I can actually dump in a half pint of water in each tank, and it will go down to these wedge shaped sumps where they can be drained, along with any debris.

The main fuel outlets also have drain petcocks on them, and the fuel goes on to a shutoff valve, then on to a gascolator. The gascolator has a 70 micron filter, and has a metal bowl that screws off for dumping the fuel and cleaning the screen. I installed the shutoff valve ahead of this gascolator so that I could service it without dumping fuel everywhere. The valve is safety wired of course.

The gascolator has a port where I can insert a probe from my sample cup and draw fuel out...checking for water.

After the gascolator...the fuel goes to the electric boost pump. This pump is not needed after the turbine starts as the mechanical pump takes over. This electric boost pump is a flow through type so that the mechanical pump can draw fuel through it with it turned off. Some guys leave this boost pump on, and some dont. I will leave mine on. I like the idea of constant fuel pressure keeping the mechanical fuel pump primed under pressure.

The fuel leaves the boost pump and goes to a fuel control valve...which from the cabin I can shut it off....send it to the turbine...or turn it to aux and fill the aux tank on the ground either by gravity feed, or by pumping it in. The aux tank is just a transfer tank...it holds 5 gallons...and I will use it to top off the main tanks after 10 minutes of flight. The transfer takes about 12 minutes...and it basically will top off the aft fuel tank. I have an in cabin sight tube to monitor so that I know I am not over filling this tank! This burning off the aft fuel while transferring the aux fuel minimizes the cg shift, rather than burning off 5 gallons first, then tranferring the 5 gallons from the aux tank. I did a weight and balance on it and came up with only a 7/16 inch cg shift transferring the fuel after about 2 gallons has been burned off.

Its too complicated to explain here without a drawing..but most that run this aux tank have it all plumbed in with the other tanks. The problem with that is the top tank burns off first...and its aft of the rotorshaft, while this aux tank is in front of it. The standard way sees all of this aft fuel being completely burned off first, thus causing the forward aux fuel to have its full weight effecting the cg. It will cause a cg shift around 7/8 of an inch if memory serves me correctly.

The fuel ends up running through a final 25 micron filter just before entering the mechanical fuel pump on the turbine.

I have checked the flow rates of my boost pump....both pumping and free flow, and the flow rates through my filters. All comfortably exceed the fuel consumption of the turbine by 2 to 1.

On to my electrical system:

I have a Keywest regulator that will continue to supply power to the governor and main fuel solenoid, and basic electrical needs, should I completely lose all battery voltage.


The fuel goes through a main fuel solenoid that automatically closes if the 12 volts is lost to it. I am going to convert it after the factory checkout to a fail safe mode...where it takes voltage to shut the fuel off...instead of turning the fuel on. There has to be a way for the overspeed circuitry to intervene and supply voltage to the main fuel solenoid should an overspeed occur.

The factory is going to offer a modification that not only makes the main fuel solenoid fail safe....but also have a small backup battery that will be charged by the system, but if the electrical system fails, this back up battery is diode protected from losing its voltage to the failed system, yet supply voltage to keep the governor and the main fuel solenoid open. They wont be offering this until after my checkout as they are still working on this kit upgrade.

One cant cover every scenario.. but I feel this covers the basics and is better than the stock setup. Again,,,this mod is by the factory so they are behind this change.


Stan
 
I am down to cleaning up msc. issues. My engine tach has failed to work...I took it to Homer Bells fly-in where Blake checked it out...and he wasnt sure....so he took it back to Idaho and verified it was fine. He suggested that I move the sensor within 0.03 inches of the pickups. I was too cautious as I could feel the magnets tugging on the sensor as I was turning the turbine wheel with my finger. I didnt want any rubbing going on. Anyway...its reading fine now. I put some little labels on my clutch switches.

You can see the starter ran it to 11064 rpm....it was way over 12000, and you can see the oil pressure gauge reading 25 pounds.


Stan
 

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As always ..... immaculate.
I could use the craftsmanship you display....
Looking good Stan. Now you just need to scuff the paint off the bottom of the skids damn it :) (by the normal wear and tear method of course)
 
Your attention to detail Stan is incredible and your machine will be the most imaculate helicopter !!!
This helicopter build is just the greatest and thanks for sharing this with us all.

I recently had and took the oppertunity of having a fly of a R22 and it was a magic expereince that I have waited many years for. Thankfully I had read a lot about flying a R22 so I was well prepared. I'm pleased to say that I was able to hover on the 3 rd go and able to land /takeoff do a couple of quick circuits etc.
I'm sure you are going to have many happy hours flying your machine Stan.
 
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Hi Stan, your helicycle is looking great. I wanted to ask you where you got the nice throttle grip, and did it fit easily on the collective shaft. I also wanted to know what type of fittings you used for the fuel line conections at the bottom of the 2 side tanks and how did you install them.
 
Hi Stan, your helicycle is looking great. I wanted to ask you where you got the nice throttle grip, and did it fit easily on the collective shaft. I also wanted to know what type of fittings you used for the fuel line conections at the bottom of the 2 side tanks and how did you install them.
the Throttle grip is for a Harley. not sure how far back it is,but Stan tells about it in the build thread.

if you spend many hours reading stan's Build, you will see he tells in detail and with pics every step of the way.

This has got to be the most detailed Helicycle builders thread to ever be written.

Thanks Stan for setting the Standard for others to follow.
 
I see you have the "Up - Down" switch installed. A very important part on any helicopter. :)
 
Thanks guys. The collective grip had been sought after by just waiting till I ran across one. This spring I was buying a new battery for my Harley at the local motorcycle shop...and was looking over some Harley grips. I found one that looked like it measured perfectly.....I asked the owner if I could run down to my stairshop and see if it fits. It was a very snug fit...so I bought it and put some weatherstripping adhesive on it and it is there to stay.


I hope to have a little announcement tomorrow about my Helicycle.


Stan
 
Airworthiness received

Airworthiness received

His honor....Tom Milton knighted my Helicycle with its Airworthiness Certificate today. One of the few remaining hurdles for me to resume airborn status. Next is sending in my documentation....and being scheduled for the last hurdle....the 4 day factory checkout...where on the last day Doug Schwochert will first fly my Helicycle...then I lift off.

Thank you Tom for your thourough debriefing...and my 4th airworthiness from you.

Chuck Roberg came along to my delight and we all had a nice lunch together afterwards. Chuck is in the last picture.


Stan
 

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WOOHOO! Congrats Stan, now get that baby fired up and test flown.

been missing all your great flight posts, lord knows we need some good reading on here lately.
 
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