Helicycle Hatchery

I hooked up the first of many connections here in the photos. I have to be careful keeping everything neat and orderly..and bundled correctly so the lower panel will tilt back easily for access.

I am using heat shrink on each terminal....not for insulating reasons..but for a better strain relief. That wire felt more secure after I hit the heat shrink with a torch. I have a bunch of mini loops to fabricate and hookup between the circuit breakers. I am going to get the right length figured out, then clone a bunch of these. They will all be bent the same and should make for a fun time wiring this lower panel.


Stan
 

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:director:Hey Stan, I think Larry was talking about marine quality ring terminals, that have the plastic part made of heat shrink. They also have some epoxy inside the plastic part that oozes out and hardens after you shrink them. They are expensive, but the best I have used. Mike.
 
:director:Hey Stan, I think Larry was talking about marine quality ring terminals, that have the plastic part made of heat shrink. They also have some epoxy inside the plastic part that oozes out and hardens after you shrink them. They are expensive, but the best I have used. Mike.

Yes I think that is correct, the connector is water proof so it can not corrode. First it is crimped & a tugged to test crimp. Note I used heat shrink inside the connector to prevent kinks. and the connector shrinks tight against the red heat shrink. The cost was not that much more when you consider you are betting your life on the connections.

The first one I did like this for a test was in the vise. Pulled like heck and finally the wire insulation behind the red heat shrink stretched to reveal the bare wire. The one on the left is a larger guage and appears flat, but the connector shrink is actually round and transparent.
 

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Do you guys use the military style crimpers?...and no solder also? Thanks again.

Stan,

Not an expert, as I was asking you! But this is what a found last year.

Don't know the crimp style, Asked for the best for this type connector and paid alot of money if that counts! I originally purchased the connectors from NAPA 3 to a box [784452], then found they had a large box of connectors. Also found an online source for connectors, looms, Wire Markers & Labels, and heavy wall sleeving. I liked the idea of labeling the wires & keeping a diagram on paper.

Marine do come with solder which I tried. I was not sure if the solder or the heat shrink was holding the connection. I trust the crimp as I can see it, and feel it before shrinking (much faster).

Used quick motion & rotation with a bic lighter to shrink it, being careful not to burn. The bic you can control how even it shrinks because you are heating all sides at once (in the flame, not the tip of the flame as it will burn), much better than a solder iron. Took less than a minute to strip, crimp & shrink (10 sec). Replaced all the old style external as I could see some blue/green discoloration.

If I was building your small loop jumpers, I would use these connector, plus additional heat shrink over the entire wire. I was originally inspired when I connected my 220 volt water well pump with a similar connector. I questioned my electrician how such a connector could work & not leak voltage under water. His comment was "it just works, never had a problem."

Recently, connectors which incorporate shrink-tube insulation sleeves have been introduced to the consumer marine market. The connector-wire joint is first crimped, the a heat gun is used to seal the connector insulation to the wire cover making a waterproof joint. This would appear to be the best method for making up connections, especially below decks, or in other salt atmosphere spaces.
 
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The pictures and its INFO were done well. Thank U
 
Larry- I looked at those marine fittings...and they looked nice....but I revised the method I have used for years without problems.

I have always soldered my connections. I know there are pluses and minuses to soldering, but I trust my soldered joints more than just a crimped one.

The problem is that strain relief is important. You mentioned a couple of heat shrink wraps.....and that gave me an idea.

I made up a sample here....used aviation grade ends....crimped them....then put some 3/16 shrink tubing inside the insulated end. I shrunk it with heat....then put a 2nd 3/16 shrink tube over the first one. I cut it 1/4 inch longer so as to spread out the bending load.....then shrunk that one.

I followed up with a 3rd one that was cut another 1/4 inch longer than the 2nd one....and shrank it on also.

I was very pleased with the feel of this.....it spreads the load nicely. In the last picture ...if you look closely you can see the stair stepped shrink wrap around the wire.

Next I tried an end that was just soldered and bent it back and forth for a while...and it finally broke. I am still bending this test sample. I am thoroughly convinced that these will do very well for me.

I am proceeding with the wiring of the lower switches which will be in the next post.

Stan
 

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I had to make 10 jumpers to run power from the circuit breaker to the bottom lugs of my 10 switches. I made two mockups...and decided on the shorter one....then cloned 9 more. I prebent these, then soldered them. The connectors slid on very tight on the spades, leaving the ring connector right at the screw terminal on the circuit breaker. Each one fit like without any manipulation or strain on it.

I am making loops in the harness so that when this panel is hinged back for access...the wires wont be stressed much.

The bundle coming off the circuit breakers has several layers of heat shrink tubing on them, so the load is spread also. I like the feel of this,...it is not tugging on the terminals.

Stan
 

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Stan: I've been using the method you describe (stepped layers of heat-shrink over a soldered crimp terminal) for years with zero failures. I use it on trailers and such as well.

Solder reduces the electrical resistance of the joint. That matters with the tiny currents and voltages associated with thermocouples, reluctors (rotor tach coil pickups) and other unpowered sensors. It also gets a little more juice back to those cheesy trailer lights I buy.

In my opinion, of course.
 
What I do is to crimp the lug on and the flow solder around the crimp connection. Over that joint I use two stepped heat shrinks (Stan describes three, which is probably better still).

I like to think that I get the best of both worlds. The vibration restistance of a crimp connection and the low electrical resistance of a well done solder joint topped off by the strain relilef of the stepped heat shrink tubing around it.

-- Chris.
 
Doug and Chris- Its encouraging to see you two using the same methods. I like a soldered joint...and like you mentioned Doug.....the resistance is lower. I have a stout pull tested crimp before I solder.

I have some pictures here of my spaghetti slowly turning into neat bundles. Its a good feeling seeing chaos turn to order.

I will be wiring a 9 pin connector soon that feeds the upper instrument panel. I love the way the lower panel can tilt forward easily for access...and the upper instrument panel will simply unplug .....and out comes the whole panel, instruments and all.

Stan
 

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well,all I can say,is it sure makes my simple wiring harness in my commuter H1B look sad.

that sure does look nice stan. but of course I would expect no less from your builds.

wont be long till that Turbine gets here.
 
Very clean, thanks for the detail pictures. Just to be sure, what is the type wire & gauge you are using for your instruments and purchased by the roll?

So do the old timers like Doug keep a 50' roll of mil wire in their shop?
 
Hi Stan,

I just came back into your thread, and the few times I've visited I've found it fascinating.

I am wondering why you are using spade connections in some of your wiring. If I missed it earlier, I'm sorry; but it is an important question.
 
Terry- The switches came with spades, that's why. You would not believe how hard they are to pull off. Tell me the importance....just curious! Stan

If the switches are non-critical, spade connectors would not be a problem at all. If the switches, or any other connections are flight safety critical, and/or nuisance critical for some people, then they can be a problem.

Unless something has changed in the thinking of the FAA, spade connections would be rejected in an airworthiness inspection.

Adding to this, best practice, wire bundles should be laid in close to the switches with all wires leaving the back of the switch bank and bending to join the bundle, with a cord or nylon cable tie at regular intervals. The bundle should not place a load on the switch connections by being secured itself to the panel before continuing away from the panel. In this way, vibrations in flight, extra G loads, and panel manipulations for inspection and service would not jeopardize the connections.

If you can imagine opening or removing the panel, everything should be secured so that the connections themselves see little to no torque.

Your work is beautiful, and I hope you take this as encouragement, not criticism, as your safety is important to all of us.

A well secured bundle running along the switch row and then secured to a stand-off or two before leaving the panel is ideal for aviation applications.

Take a look under the panel of an older Cessna to see what I mean.

As tall as your panel is, and to leave your leg space open, you could run your bundle down the middle of the switchbank and secure it on a stand-off at the bottom of the panel, and in the middle if you decide, before turning the wires to their destinations. The stand-off(s) should be fastened to the panel so that panel, switches, and wiring form a monolithic unit when handled.

Also, when leaving the switches, the wires should not go straight to the bundle, but should be pre-bent to form kind of a question mark shape to the bundle; this for vibration damping and to insure the bundle weight is not applied to the wire connections, and to insure ease of handling when individual connections are taken loose.

Hope this makes sense. FAA or not, it is best practice.
 
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Enjoying your progress

Enjoying your progress

Terry- All I can say is to come back in a month or so, and then I should have my wiring of the panel 99% complete. I am very aware of placing standoffs to keep the pressure off the terminals. I think I am off to a good start.... I just am not done yet! This rotorcraft like many others non-certified and experimental just never will be at the level other certified aircraft are. All I can say is I am trying to hack out to a reasonable safety level, a helicopter that I will put my butt in an go fly. Stan

Sorry if I was out of line.
 
Looking good buddy, thanks for sharing!!!
 
Lee Scat has made a very kind gesture by PM. He offered to send me some terminal strips to replace my loops that I made up. These are my words, and not Lees, but I will be the first to say that my loops, although very secure, are "cheesy" in my eye...but acceptable. I had looked high and low for such terminal strips to no avail. I told Lee I welcome him sending them and to send me a bill with them. Thanks Lee for the kind offer, your polite way of doing it by PM, but I went public anyway. I appreciate critisism when done in your manner. I will post some installed pictures of Lees terminal strips he offered to send me.......here is one of my " cheesy"....my words.....alternative way I concucted!:censored: You can see the yellow terminal loops on the blue terminal block. It would never have failed in my opinion...but what Lee is suggesting will look so much more professional. Hey....I have learned a lot from this thread. Lee also suggested I could drill and safety wire any spade lugs.....but I still will just solder them. Less chance of any incontinuity. I have to again thank Terry for putting some doubt in my head about my spade use.

Thanks Lee!

Stan
 

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Incontinuity? Don't they have pills for that now? :boink:
 
Jon- Did I butcher that word? ha..:der:

I was in the general vascectomy in its use anyway...:yo:

I wish I was amphibious so I could type with both hands...


Stan
Now that's funny!!!
 
I started messing with this 9 pin connector that will feed all the instruments in the upper panel...turbine temp, turbine oil pressure, transmission temp and pressure, chip lights...all the power for the gauges, etc.

Like usual...I read the instructions and they mentioned using a #30 to drill out the sockets. I tried that drill on a test scrap...and the terminals were loose as a goose. So I decided that they were fine as is...and they were!

Man, you have to verify all instructions.

I also am placing 1/8 inch shrink tubing around each wire....they fit nicely inside the socket and just provide more strain relief to those fragile wires.


The last two pictures show how I am "training" my lower panel wire bundles to submit to gentle application of 100-125 pounds of number 13 foot pressure.:D You have to treat these wires with care...and no way was I going to use 220 pounds of force! I can wedge my back against the seat and give that shoe all she can take....and those wires submitted................:boink:

Stan
 

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