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StanFoster
09-24-2006, 04:22 PM
I have 108 hours on my SparrowHawk and thought I better quit flying and check those upper crankshaft support bearings. I had two on hand because I wanted to completely take them out and inspect them...and no matter what...the new ones were going in. It takes a few hours to do this. The SparrowHawk 11 has a much easier change out system.

I posted some pictures here for anyone getting ready to change theirs.

I first took the propeller off and then removed the drive belt. I have a handy little 9/16 socket on a small breaker bar for this. I ground down the socket so it goes inside the lower pulley.

There are two little 1/16 inch roll pins that have to be driven down between the bearings. I used a 1/16 inch drill bit for this.

Next I needed a puller of some type. I went to the local aircraft mechanic...no luck. Then to the tool rental place. no luck. My last resort was to the farm shop and make my own puller. Its not pretty...but did it ever do the trick. I found a flat iron 1/2 inch thick by about 4 inches wide and over a foot long. I simply torched a hole through the approximate center so that a 3/8 inch bolt could slip through. I then bought a 4 inch long 3/8 fine thread bolt and put it through my "puller" and then screwed it into the inner collar that goes through both bearings.

3 kerwhomps with this ugly beast and the bearings and collar were out.:whoo:

My bearings looked and felt absolutely as good as the new ones...but it would be foolish to reuse them. I want my clock to start with 0:00 hours....not 108.

The rest was easy reassembly until I had to place those tiny 1/16 inch roll pins inside the pulley. I took another pair of hands...a flashlight in my mouth...and after it took 20 minutes for the first one...but we had our technique down and the next one took 20 seconds.:whoo:

It was a real quick reassembly after that. This whole process including running to the tool rental place....the airplane mechanic...and finally just designing and fabricating my own puller took 4 hours before it was all back together. I know I could do in in an hour and a half next time.

Heres the pictures...

1st. the upper bearing rear plate off

2nd the prop off

3rd the 1/16 drill bit drive out tool

4th the "puller" ugly but works great

5th first new bearing and in between collar installed

6th second bearing in

7th done:D

Steve McGowan
09-24-2006, 06:19 PM
Stan,,,
Ya need to go out to Buckeye and take a few hour instructon from Monty.

The upper bearings are a charm, Wait till you have to go into the main prop hub bearings..

Ya gotta heat the hub and cool the bearings and shaft to get a proper fit.:noidea:

You'll love those,:)

I'm in Eulonia, Ga... between Savannah and Brunswick.. been down at the docks playing with dolphins, The fish kind, not the football players.

Gonna have fresh shrimp for supper.. like the bearings,,, ya gotta hold your mouth just rite. It'll taste better that way.

Steve

StanFoster
09-24-2006, 06:45 PM
Steve: Do you recall when they recommend changing the bigger prop bearings?


Stan

WHY
09-24-2006, 07:41 PM
Hi Steve

Great pictures on the change out, the pictures bring a question to mind. Is there a procedure or mechanisim on the outer bearing support to allow adjustment, or centering of the oil clearance on the engine rear main bearing when the belt is under tension?

Tony

StanFoster
09-25-2006, 02:58 AM
Tony: I assume you are directing the question to me. I do not have a clue to answer your question.

I know of no adjustment that you are wondering about. Its basically a bolt on item. I had no instructions for shimming or anything. However...when I put it together originally...I verified to myself that there wasnt any unusual or extra loads being applied to the crankshaft when it was tightened up. Had there been....I would have placed some very thin shim washers under the bearing support legs. I did have the thought go through my mind while building it originally that if there was say a slight upload to the cranskshaft end...then this would offset the download the belt is applying. But in my case...the bearing support seems to be very neutrally loaded.

If they ever advice having this slightly uploaded...then again..some shim washers on the bottom two leg bolts would give it some upforce. Just my thoughts...and nothing I had heard from anyone. So....if someone more up to date on these specs can add some correction...please do so.


Stan

Harry_S.
09-25-2006, 10:24 AM
Stan;

Apparently this is quite different than with the RAF setup. That is why I couldn't follow your description for removing the bearings?! The RAF bearings are a press fit in the drive sprocket. No pins.

Anyhow...what is the PArt No. for the replacement bearing...the manufacturer...and did you get them locally?!

My local bearing supplier only has Chinese bearings and I don't want to use them. Thank you.


Cheers :)

StanFoster
09-25-2006, 04:49 PM
Harry: I replaced the bearings with the same Japanese bearings. After seeing the old ones...I am very pleased how tight and just as new feeling they are. They are coming out with a quicker change out ...I assume it will be more like RAF's.


Stan

Steve McGowan
09-25-2006, 05:54 PM
Steve: Do you recall when they recommend changing the bigger prop bearings?




Stan

Check the run out at the prop tips,, release the tension on the drive belt.. IF NO indication of bearing failure is apparent.. continue to run.

Monty would usually change bearings at 200 hrs if any movement was noticed..He would change them immediately..


Loosen main drive belt and check at every 25 hr inspection... and with tension on every preflite and post flite.




Steve

StanFoster
09-25-2006, 07:32 PM
Steve: Your last post says a lot. That really gives me a tangible way to be more aware of the condition of those critcal bearings.


Thanks...you the man....:whoo:


Stan